Onan/Cummins 6AT diesel
- Thread starter McDowra
- Start date
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We get owners wanting to do this all the time. You need a huge lift for the oil pan to clear the diff. These are good engines in their appropriate vehicle, but a Landcruiser is too small to handle the noise and vibration. They often end up in the classifieds within a year.
Cheap is not always good.
Toyota/Hino/Daihatsu make engines in the same class as the Cummins 6AT for their trucks, but they chose to make a 6 cyl diesel for the Landcruiser
Cheap is not always good.
Toyota/Hino/Daihatsu make engines in the same class as the Cummins 6AT for their trucks, but they chose to make a 6 cyl diesel for the Landcruiser
Thats intresting about the huge lift to clear the oil pan? I have taken the springs out of mine and had it sitting on the bump stops. The pan sump sits rear of the tie rod, the only clearance issue on full bump is the front drive shaft gets really close to the flywheel housing.
This is a 6bt tho so maybe the 6AT is different?
As far as noise and vibration go the 80 does a good job of insulating the occupants from it. Mine is a Lexus with a bit more sound insulation than a Land Cruiser. With the windows closed I would say it's no worse than a 60 series with a 2H.
To each there own but giving opinions based off of nothing but trucks turning up in classifieds is silly. I have seen based off the classifieds that most where selling them due to poor installs or lack of mechanical skills to maintain or work on it.
- Thread starter
- #5
Thanks te 6A is a good bit smaller, the power part has me a little worried
Yes ,sorry my mistake
Anyone can help me. I have a 6AT in my truck but having trouble finishing it
I’m having trouble with wiring it up. (Injection pump) and what not.
Start with the easy stuff, and only focus on one wire at a time. Find your fuel pump, find a wire for a solenoid that allows it to run or shuts it down first, and then identify the hot wire from the ignition to apply power to it when the key is on.
Edit, I see your running a compound turbo. I was wondering what was going on with your exhaust routing for a minute.
If that section of exhaust pipe between the two turbos leaks you'll have some problems. I wouldn't trust that piping joint or that wall thickness between the two, good enough to get it going but...
Edit, I see your running a compound turbo. I was wondering what was going on with your exhaust routing for a minute.
If that section of exhaust pipe between the two turbos leaks you'll have some problems. I wouldn't trust that piping joint or that wall thickness between the two, good enough to get it going but...
I can’t find wiring diagrams on the internet to help trace back ignition wires. Would the fuel pump have to be ran on a solenoid or just tie into the ignition switch?
So....
I think you mean the injection pump solenoid, which should be able to be run off of an ignition wire without an extra relay.
If your thinking fuel pump:
No fuel pump on mine (6BT), it is deleted in the tank and a straight piece of hose in its place.
The 6BT runs a diaphram pump on the side of the block (lifter pump I think it's called).
Your weird 6AT may have that, or maybe something else.
If you want an 80 series manual PM me your email address, you should be able to find wire colors through that.
I’ll post a pic later. The only added wires to the harness was (red,blue,white,green) and 2 whites and a black that run to the plug ran to the oil filter fitting.
Interesting work. Support brackets for your low pressure turbo is a good idea. Diesel vibration can break anything that vibrates with significant movement. I'd invest in like 4 or 5 rolls of headerwrap and cover every exhaust surface you can. Your underhood temps will be unreal otherwise.
yeah, I'll second the header wrap...
This year while out in the woods for hunting a had a fuel issue (loose ground on transfer switch, ran tank dry) I had to bleed the injectors to get it running, ended up putting my arm across the exhaust manifold on a hot engine while bleeding the injectors. I didn't notice it was the manifold cause I had wrapped it, otherwise I would probably have a casting seam for a scar on my wrist.
It does knock the engine compartment temps down, and you'll be double thinking not doing that when some of your wiring melts or gets brittle and cracks. With the amount of exhaust piping in the engine compartment it would be good remediation in your case. I use a turbo blanket and have wrapped the first couple feet of the exhaust (stainless) after the turbo in mine, no regrets with it.
This year while out in the woods for hunting a had a fuel issue (loose ground on transfer switch, ran tank dry) I had to bleed the injectors to get it running, ended up putting my arm across the exhaust manifold on a hot engine while bleeding the injectors. I didn't notice it was the manifold cause I had wrapped it, otherwise I would probably have a casting seam for a scar on my wrist.
It does knock the engine compartment temps down, and you'll be double thinking not doing that when some of your wiring melts or gets brittle and cracks. With the amount of exhaust piping in the engine compartment it would be good remediation in your case. I use a turbo blanket and have wrapped the first couple feet of the exhaust (stainless) after the turbo in mine, no regrets with it.
I don’t understand where the solenoid would be located
H
This motor is the same as my 1986 Onan L634d, with variants. Cummins bought the engine, and put it in UPS trucks, turbo'ed the thing used a 3600rpm injection pump vs my 1800rpm stanadyne I.P. Mine is a marine genny config, non turbo, 1800 rpm. rated at 50hp...yours is a 3600rpm turbo rated at 220hp. They made these in 12v and 24v configurations, your I.P. solenoid is inside the I.P. and that cover your red wire goes into needs to be removed to inspect it. There is a lift pump on the R side of the block with manual primer that feeds the I.P. on mine. If it is deleted, you can run an electric one to supply the I.P. and only 4-6psi is recommended. if your I.P. injectors, lines ect have air, it is a bear to prime the system, and best to use a electric pump vs lift pump to prime. Crack the lines on all injectors till you see diesel at each, then tighten. Your system (if 24v) has 24v I.P. solenoid, starter, glow plugs, and alternator. The ECM should only control glow plugs, and fuel cutoff power to the I.P. also needs to be rated 24v...but I'm unsure of charging circuit operations. My question for you is what I.P. do you have? should have id numbers on the side. Bosch makes a 3600rpm one for it, possible stanadyne makes ones that will work too. I.P. is timed off of marks via flywheel on my genny. search web for onan l634d, youll find a nice PDF download manual with onan PN's cummins dealers seem pretty useless to find parts, as they all seem to use internet resources. I am looking for the transmission adapter for this engine if you know anyone. Hope this helps!