OME 3" or 4"? Any ideas?

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This information is fantastic and very helpful.
Thank you FirstToy and thank you to all of you for your input.
It is all much appreciated.

FirstToy said:
Whitey (why do I feel like I'm talking to a character on Leave it to Beaver? :D )

I went through the same thing as you. Beyond internet research, I asked trusted, experienced 80's guys.
My advice if you are going to stick w/ 33's is the OME lift or if you go 4", the Slee 4" kit.

One consideration that may/may not affect you is total vehicle height and parking structures. W/ 33's and OME heavies, I'm already holding my breath on many structures... I feel like it is at the limit of MY uses as far as height.

IMO, when you are going 4" on up, you are cutting into daily driver ability for the great offroad capability. In that case, I would think 35's need to be part of that equation-not just the lift. That's just my opinion tho.

It's funny how a OME 2.5 lift looks frickin' huge and tall on the street but pretty avg on the trail... you will get more than 2.5" if you don't have armor...
For what you describe your uses as, I think OME's are the way to go. I think you will be surprised at the capability as I've personally seen Doug (OME 2.5) and the Slee 6" on the Rubicon- I, personally, would stick with these options if you intend to wheel your rig. Again, just one man's opinion.
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I don't know if I'm letting a cat out of the bag here, but at the SEMA show ARB told a couple of us about some new OME springs they had. The rep called them competition springs and said they were available in 3, 4, and 5". He said they were available and in stock in Seattle.
 
How would one locate information on such a "new" spring?


FZJFillmore said:
I don't know if I'm letting a cat out of the bag here, but at the SEMA show ARB told a couple of us about some new OME springs they had. The rep called them competition springs and said they were available in 3, 4, and 5". He said they were available and in stock in Seattle.
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Whitey said:
is the OME 3.5-4" lift on various sites the same as the 3" OME on Man-A-Fre?

Seems like the item number is the same but why are they advertised as different heights?

:confused:
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I'm not sure why the J springs would be advertised differently. The J springs give 70 mm of lift, which is technically 2.75 inches. Referring to it as a 3 inch lift is just easier for us. Some people see more lift from these springs because there old springs are sagging. When we say 3 inch lift, its really 3 inches over stock height.
 
I called ARB and asked about the Competition springs in 3" size.

Spring rate heavier than 850 (300 vs 220) in front, and intermediate btwn 863 and 864 in back (280 vs 250 and 320).

No warranty. Recommended only for competition, not road.

Discouraged use unless for severa offroad use (high-speed or high-stress)

FWIW
 
4WD Toyota Owner Magazine said:
Heya NorCalDoug,

Which rig were you in? We took a ton of pics there...

I'd have to agree with you, as of yet the truck hasn't been tested in rocks. That's on the schedule up here in Washington, with two trips coming up which will put the Pro Comp Mud Terrains to the test as well as the drop bracket kit itself.

That said, it LOOKS pretty good, in the sense that the brackets mount exactly where the OEM mounts were prior to being lifted. Still, we'll have to see. Naturally, I'll report what I find, briefly here and in 4WD Toyota Owner.

Let the acid test begin!

Dave
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Mine's the white 80 with black bedliner on the flares and sides. You asked me what my personalized license plate (AVO VUM) meant. :)

Just so I'm clear -- I'm not saying that it won't work -- I'm only saying that I can't suggest someone go that route until I see it in action or someone has done a thorough test of it on some more extreme trails.

For expeditions...the brackets will not likely ever come into play. Moab? Probably fine there too. It really depends on the terrain.

I look forward to your review of the MAF kit.
 
Steve-O said:
I'm not sure why the J springs would be advertised differently. The J springs give 70 mm of lift, which is technically 2.75 inches. Referring to it as a 3 inch lift is just easier for us. Some people see more lift from these springs because there old springs are sagging. When we say 3 inch lift, its really 3 inches over stock height.
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I believe ARB's specs the lift height with constant additional load, on a light truck you will get more lift, mostly in the rear. On my truck with J's and a 1.5" alloy spacer in the front, stock with an ARB bull bar, it's at about 24.75" hub center to flare edge all the way around, stock is about 19.5", without the spacer the front would be 1.5" lower, stink bug. This is why some install J's in the front and heavies in the rear for a 3.5" even lift. The springs are about 250LB per inch rate, so in loose numbers, for every 1,000 pounds evenly distributed in the truck it will lower the truck about one inch.
 
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OK guys...need some advice please.

I just popped over to my mechanics to check status on my new '97. He has the J-'s and L's on the Lexus. With the stock tires and chrome wheels it looks wierd. :D

This Lexus will be like my 80 (no add-on weight, just sliders and cut frames with steel F&R rear bumpers). I forgot to measure my height before he started. Equipped that way the J's should give me about 4-inches lift....RIGHT?

I did a quick test drive and it seems that when accellerating there is a small vibration. I have the Slee Castor Brackets on already. What'll cure the vibration? Slee says a front CV shaft though maybe rear upper control arms too.

What have you experienced with J's (850/863) and an unloaded truck?

THANKS!
 
Have him measure the u-joint angles, but sounds right, CV front shaft and shorter upper and/or longer lower rear arms. Any spacers in the front? Without spacers or added weight it will be about 3.5" of lift in the front and 5" in the rear.
 
sleeoffroad said:
Uhm, is this the point that I say "I told you so" :D
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Pllllb. You know my plan....more orders are coming. :D

OK, my plan has changed. (Since I need to buy more parts from Slee)

I'm tiring up tomorrow. Then, I'll see how much room is left in the garage. I think I'll have about 2 inches or so.

PLAN: Put in 1-inch spacers all around. Maybe 1.5 in the front. Grab the CV front driveshaft then get an alignment. If I need rear control arms I'll then get those and with a panhard rod.

Should this work? Can it be aligned at the 4-5" lift level since I have those Slee Castor Plates?
 
sleeoffroad said:
But, if the noise is on accelaration and not decel, then it might be a bad u-joint. You have to start the "pull the driveshaft and test" game.
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It ran perfect until lift.

I think it does at both though a tad more on accell. I only drove it for about 2 minutes.
 
ShottsUZJ100 said:
It ran perfect until lift.

I think it does at both though a tad more on accell. I only drove it for about 2 minutes.
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You may have a weak u-joint, when lifted they run at more angle, revealing the weakness as a vibration/noise. The only way to tell is pull the shafts and check the joints.
 
Tools R Us said:
You may have a weak u-joint, when lifted they run at more angle, revealing the weakness as a vibration/noise. The only way to tell is pull the shafts and check the joints.
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OK. Drove it more. It does vibrate on and off the pedal. Above 50MPH is actually "roars" some. Above 60 it sounds like you're riding at the roads edge where they have those grooves.
None of this existed before.
I measured and I'm up almost another inch above my 80!
 
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