Old m6000? (1 Viewer)

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I've got this old Warn winch. It was given to me for helping a friend get a FJ40 I had found that he was looking for. I figured the thing worked, so I stuck it in the storage shed until I dug it out today. It's missing one of the tie rods, not a big deal. I hooked it up to a battery, plugged in the controller - nothing....

I didn't touch any of the connections. It's got a P.N. 16570 with a stamped number 54551, but unfortuneately the sticker with the model and serial number is buggered up. It's got a plastic lever for the engage/free spool control. P1020850.jpg

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The wire rope I removed as it was showing it's age and I wanted to test the motor without having to worry about wire going all over. I'm hoping it's a simple thing that someone here can point out.

Is it possible to replace the old solenoid control box with a modern electronic
contactor box?

Anyone with any info I'd sure appreciate. I emailed the Warn contact address. Not sure what answer I'll get from them.

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P1020853.jpg
 
Is it possible to replace the old solenoid control box with a modern electronic
contactor box?

Yes; I did exactly that on my Warn 8274 and the write-up is here in this sub-forum. No reason why you couldn't do it to an M6000 too, but you'll need the wiring schematic for it to get it right. It's not rocket science by any means.
 
You should test the motor before replacing the solenoid pack. Test procedure here.
 
Tom
Thank you! The motor is operational. I will write that boosting sequence down and keep it in the truck for future emergency.
I will dig around and see if I can find a different solenoid pack I can borrow. Unfortuneately I have a compressor winch on the front and it's all internal electronics, not to mention the plug is 'many' pins, not 3!

I got an email return from Mike @ Warn, who is a member on MUD here. Thanks, and I'll troubleshoot the solenoid now. I still will need a tie rod to hold it together.

Can the freespool/engage housing be clocked a couple of inches?
 
Success! Mx 6085 D1 is the model. #6000 pull will be lots, always have a snatch block if needed.

As you can see in the photo, the solenoid pack wasn't grounded. Should have been, Damn! I also had to fix the controller switch, it was jammed in. I've received some great help from Mike @ Warn, and he will be forwarding the required tie rod.

FYI, I'm designing and fabricating a new rear bumper for my 60 wagon. But I plan a rear winch, and wanted to get it running as I have to have it in place for fitting.
 
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:clap:A very special thanks to Mike @ Warn Technical!!! After several emails Mike gave me all the info I could need, and to top it off :clap: he sent me a new set of stickers, and a slightly old tie rod and lock nuts that I required. :bounce:

So today I'm making the mounting plate and will soon start a build thread in the 60's section of my rear bumper with winch.

Warn service rules again!!
 
Now to be rear winch

I am working on a new rear bumper, part of which I've wanted to have a rear winch and have it as part of the build. I'm keeping the receiver hitch as it serves as a mounting point for the winch as well. I'm not worried about the hitch dragging, it will act as a rear skid plate for the planned long range fuel cell.
Here is a pic of the new stickers! Thanks Mike!
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I used 3/8" plate for the attachment base and drilled some extra holes for mounting.
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I welded some 1 1/4" x 3/16" angle to the rear of the receiver bar, this is just to hold it down. At the front of the receiver cross bar I welded 2" x 1/4" with the front feet of the winch through the angle as well as 2 more 1/2" bolts. The theory being that when the winch is activated, it is pulling along the width of the receiver. I figure that's strong enough.
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I'm going to with a hawse on the bumper because less knee-capping of people. It will be recessed into the bumper a bit anyways for a clean look.

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Well, thank you. I just finished cutting a new exhaust exit so we can save that before I demolish it!
 
Success! Mx 6085 D1 is the model. #6000 pull will be lots, always have a snatch block if needed.

As you can see in the photo, the solenoid pack wasn't grounded. Should have been, Damn!
How do you ground the solenoid pack? It would seem that by bolting the brace to the winch bumper which holds the solenoid pack above the winch, that would ground the pack?

I have a MX6085 D1. I bought it new and it was working when I placed it in storage for about 20 years ago. I have tested the motor and it works, checked all four solenoids and replaced a solenoid, but all it does is click. I am using the remote off of warn 8000, could that be a problem?

Jim Hood
 
Bump!
How has the 6000# done in the back of the wagon?
I just got one of these for free, and wasn’t sure if it is worth putting in the FJ62. Thought I would ask a fellow who did it.
I know a bigger winch would be best.
Any info would be appreciated. Thank you.
 
Bump!
How has the 6000# done in the back of the wagon?
I just got one of these for free, and wasn’t sure if it is worth putting in the FJ62. Thought I would ask a fellow who did it.
I know a bigger winch would be best.
Any info would be appreciated. Thank you.

Well, it worked initially. Then a friend was building a Suzuki for his son, a really neat little rig and since he saved me
so much money in helping me build my house, and it really suited the bumper he made it went that way.
I can say I did test it up on the mountain and it pulled well enough. I had every intention of using a snatch block
if it was required. I replaced it with a Runva 11500 XpS with synthetic line. Dimensionally almost the same.
The Runva hasn't let me down.

To JimHood:

I am sorry I missed this earlier. I ran two identical battery cables to the back frame and put the contactor in a waterproof
marine box and used sealed through connectors for power and ground and then grounded the winch right to the front
battery. Kinda overkill.
 

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