Old front brake drum removal (1 Viewer)

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Mar 30, 2016
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Camarillo, CA
Newbie needs help. Trying to remove an old brake drum on a '71 FJ40 with out taking off the hub. The Toyota Repair Manual says to remove the drum set screws, tap the drum, and remove the drum. My drum wiggles slightly, but is no where close to coming off. The manual advises to back off the adjusting nuts if the drum cannot be removed. Where are the adjusting nuts? The only adjusting nuts I see in the manual are the ones on the cylinder, which cannot be accessed until the drum is off. Am I missing somthing? Or should I just take the whole hub assembly off? Suggestions welcome...
 
BigDogg, you access adjusting screw through the backside of the dust shield. Here is a pic... But you need to access through a port on the dust shield and use a flat blade screwdriver through the oval window on the shield and hit the adjusting star to loosen the pads inside the drum. If you start turning the adjusting star one direction and the drum no longer moves, you are probably tightening it. Go the other way! Maybe this picture will help..? The adjusting nut is number 3 in the pic. You might have to hit the front of the drum with a rubber mallet or something to loosen it up from the shoes also... They can be a little stiff coming off...

Hope this helps!

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Thanks. Was not aware you could access it through the port. I will try it tomorrow in the daylight...

BTW, I forgot to mention that the drum assembly spins freely. If the adjustment nut is the problem, wouldn't the drum assembly be locked???
 
Yes, the drum could have rust between the drum and where it sits on the axle. That is why a good rap with a rubber mallet or a nolt so hard hit with a hammer will help break the rust and loosen it from the axle. DON'T hit it too hard with a hammer because it could crack the drum... A rubber mallet hit away... A mini sledge on the side of the drum ok too...
 
It can also depend on how old the drums and adjusters are. I have seen them where there is such a lip on the inside of the drum that there was not enough adjustment to be able to get the drum off. Had to end up breaking the drum to get it off.
 
The brake adjusting port location is on the backing plate the hole is oval with a rubber plug, located at 4 o'clock and 10 o'clock, one for each brake shoe.

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What happens is sometimes the drum is worn to the point it has a deep ridge worn into it. The properly adjusted shoes will not let the drum come off over that ridge. That is why loosening the adjusters lets you get the drum off.
 
I have had to cut the pins that hold the shoes and unbolt the slave cylinders to get them off. Mine spun freely and worked but the drums had a groove, one of the pistons was frozen and I found no other way to get them off. A lot of pounding and prying got me nowhere, a few minutes to remove 4 bolts snip 2 pins and it was off.
 
Turned both adjusting nuts to their max. Created a little more play, but still not close to coming off. How do you access the pins with the drums on? Is it through the cylinder hole?

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Does that birfield look pretty worn or is it the pic angle? The wipers look pretty worn as well but no grease visible, I recommend checking both sides as they look too dry.


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The pins go in from behind the backing plate, so you would snip off the head from behind the backing plate.
 
I finally got it off. Unbolted the cylinders from behind. Did not get to the pin... put heat on the outer rim then lightly worked around the wheel with a wrecking bar... This is what I have to work with now... The drum doesn't look like it has a ridge... who knows what the problem was... Thanks again for the help. IH8MUD rocks!

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Equally difficult time getting the other front one off. Only this time, I was hurrying along and forgot to spin the adjusting nut before unbolting the cylinder bolts from the backplate.... :bang: I went back and looked at the one I took off and I don't see a shoe hold down spring or shoe hold down spring pin. (At this point I would like to clip it). Nor do I see anywhere where the pin would go through the backplate. Does anyone with a 1971 know if they had them that year???

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Time to take a break (no pun intended) and celebrate the 4th with friends and family... (Also to keep from sledge hammering the drum into many pieces...)
 
Finally got the left front drum off... BFH, wrecking bar, and torch for heat. Only slightly bent the lip on the backplate... I had to use much more force than the last one. It was probably good that I used heat, as you will note the black widow farm in the photo. Still can't find any shoe hold down pins or springs... Two down, two to go... Hopefully the rear ones come off easier than the front.

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Go here for everything you ever wanted to know about the 71 brake system. Rebuilding The Brake Wheel Cylinders
That link takes you to the wheel cylinder rebuilding page. At the bottom of the page are links to other brake related pages. Read through it all, THEN start working on the brake system.

Be aware: It is critical that you understand how the shoes, springs, cylinders and pins mount! That link will tell you how to orient the shoes correctly, how to put the springs on correctly, and most importantly, how to mount the wheel cylinders so they are on the correct side of the truck and correctly placed to the front or the rear of the backing plate. Get any of this wrong, and you will be pulling your hair out wondering why your brakes don't work correctly...

Noticed you also seem to have grease everywhere. You need to rebuild the knuckles while you are in that deep. Here is a link you should also read: Knuckle Rebuild Knuckle rebuild kits are available from Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters Cruiser Outfitters
 
Does that birfield look pretty worn or is it the pic angle? The wipers look pretty worn as well but no grease visible, I recommend checking both sides as they look too dry.

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did you see a pic of a birfield somewhere?
 
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I'll take this opportunity to ask..what's a "birfield"?
 

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