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Oil pan leaked fixed

Discussion in '80-Series Tech' started by Trunk Monkey, Feb 21, 2007.

  1. Trunk Monkey

    Trunk Monkey Moderator

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    I finally fixed my oil pan leak over the weeked. I guess I should say a friend (Will Carroll) fixed it, I pretty much got in the way. It was the upper pan, front and rear arch. I've got a little moisture at the rear main, not enough to worry about now.

    Let me say, I had no idea what it was people were talking about with the upper oil pan. I'd seen the lower from changing oil, but hadn't even clued in on what the upper was. It's huge.

    So, here's a brief synopsis of the process, no pics were taken since we were both covered in oil most of the time. Simplifying this down to 10 steps makes it look easy, but it isn't. It took the two of us 5 hours with Will doing most of the work. He has a lot of tool attachments that work wonders for getting into tight spots (as well as quadruple jointed arms).

    1) Drain oil
    2) Undo bolts holding on lower oil pan and using a putty knife, pry it off.
    3) Remove oil level sensor and set it out of the way on top of the frame rail.
    4) Remove 6 bolts holding block to tranny
    5) Undo front drive shaft front end and front sway bar
    6) Remove bolts holding upper oil pan
    7) Remove nuts from front motor mounts
    8) Using engine hoist, tip engine up about an inch. By doing this and with the swaybar and drive shaft, you're giving yourself enough clearance to remove the upper pan. Did I mention it was big (runs the entire length of the block)? Will mentioned he'd seen a couple pans cracked when someone had missed a bolt and tried using a pry bar to break it loose from the old gasket material or trying to pry it out from under the truck without enough clearance.
    9) Thoroughly clean upper and lower pans, removing all the old FIPG. Replace oil pick-up gasket in the DS front corner of the block.
    10) Using new FIPG, reverse the process, put on a new filter and fill with oil. Check your oil level and pressure upon starting.

    On mine you could clearly see where it was leaking at the front and rear. It's been 4 days since it was done, not a drop of oil on the garage floor. I had been putting down a few drops a night.
     
  2. e9999

    e9999 You want to do what...? Moderator

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    did you check to see if the pan bolts were tightened to spec before the full removal job?
     
  3. Trunk Monkey

    Trunk Monkey Moderator

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    No. I don't think the FIPG is like the cork gasket on a 60 series where tightening it will buy you some time.
     
  4. Rookie2

    Rookie2

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    Dang, you all smoked it. It took me the better part of a full weekend. A half a day of that was trying get the geometry of everything where it needed to be to get the pan out. Knowing that part is half the battle.

    :beer:
    Rookie2
     
  5. DTAYLOR

    DTAYLOR

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    Cory,

    Nice write up. I will need to differ with you on a couple things.
    1. The 6 bolts hold the tranny and oil pan together, they do not hold the tranny and block together.
    2. I removed my oil pan without removing the forward drive shaft, but I'm sure this gave you more room. I found all I needed to remove was the stabilizer bar and the USDS rear mounting bracket.

    Also, you were more fortunate than I to be able to simply pry the pan loose with a putty knife. I had to use a propane torch to melt the FIPG in a couple places before it would separate.

    BTW, that upper pan is a beast, isn't it?

    D
     
  6. Trunk Monkey

    Trunk Monkey Moderator

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    Looked like the top 2 went into the block, oh well. :rolleyes: I didn't remove the sway bar, just dropped it down off the frame connections.

    Will is a Toyota Master Tech with 10 years of experience, so that definitely sped things up. He says jump . . .
     
  7. DTAYLOR

    DTAYLOR

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    I hear you. I bet he knows MUCH better than I do.. But why pull the block bolts? (there are 2 of them real close to the pan bolts, one on each side)

    How long did it take him to do it (turn-key), and did he have it on a lift, or was he on his back? Just curious.

    D
     
  8. Trunk Monkey

    Trunk Monkey Moderator

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    We tipped the engine up for clearance, so I'm guessing that's the block bolts. As I said, 5 hours, no lift, we were both on the floor.
     
  9. DTAYLOR

    DTAYLOR

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    The engine prop up is to allow the front of the pan to clear a non-moving stabilizer in the front suspension. It's the closest bar to the engine, and does not move, so you have to move the engine to gain clearance.

    The rear of the engine does not move from the transmission, so no need to remove those bolts. I'm guessing they either were not removed, or were removed by mistake. Either way, nothing is gained by removing them, if all you are doing is removing the pan.

    If your guy was not familiar with Cruisers, I could see this is an easy mistake to make.

    5 hours is pretty good, turn-key. I got almost that fast on the second time around.

    D
     
  10. Tym@work

    Tym@work

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    Two questions about this from an old FJ40 and FJ60 guy. Would it be beneficial, if yer gonna do a 2.5" - 3" lift anyway to do the lift first? Will clearance be gained? Also, I have never pulled an oil pan without replacing the oil pump while in there. Haven't heard anyone mention that, is there a reason not to?

    Turns out that was 3 questions...sorry...
     
  11. C6H12O6

    C6H12O6

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    The oil pump isn't in there on this motor. It has its own little cover on the front of the motor and a leaky o-ring "sealing" everything off. :)

    I'm going to have to tackle this soon, so this really helps. Thanks for the write-up. I'm still a little fuzzy on the motor mount thing. If you aren't removing the bolts that hold the tranny and block together, can you really just tip the motor up enough by just pulling the motor mount bolts? I would think even an inch or two would put unhealthy stress on something somewhere else with the tranny and engine still together.
     
  12. Trunk Monkey

    Trunk Monkey Moderator

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    The whole thing tips back enough, just makes sure you don't mash the fan into the shroud or crush any of the stuff on teh back of the motor into the firewall.

    Oh, and thanks to the laws of fluid dynamics, when you have two holes leaking and plug one, guess where the volume of fluid that was leaking out two holes goes? Rear main leak just got worse. :rolleyes:
     
  13. Rookie2

    Rookie2

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    Wouldn't be of any benefit. The part the pan can't clear is the cross bar that's hard welded to the frame, so you can lift it all you want and it's not going to give you anymore clearance for getting the pan out.

    :beer:
    Rookie2
     
  14. redrocket

    redrocket

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    Just finished mine, took me about 7 hours start to finish doing it alone. Thanks for the nice write up. Only one thing to add. remove the bolt that holds the oil dip stick in to the upper pan.
     
  15. alia176

    alia176

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