I use full synthetic and go 7500-10K depending on driving conditions and I have been told that I could go even longer b/t changes. That is why I questioned what oil filter to use. If there was something better than a OEM filter for full synthetic I would prefer to use it over stock. However, as stated by Huhwhye, most LC owners like to stay stock.
Well, if I can get a Champ filter, purolator, or motorcraft for the same price or less than a Fram its a no brainer.
Bottom line is you probably wouldn't know you had a problem with a Fram even if you did. Frams tend to bypass early. Then your just circulating oil and not filtering. On a Toyota motor this probably wouldn't cause a problem for many many miles with 4k mile changes assuming everything else is in good condition (fuel system, ignition, etc) But why risk it. Its not saving you money and its not more convienent since other brands are on the shelf at most parts stores too.
I use full synthetic and go 7500-10K depending on driving conditions and I have been told that I could go even longer b/t changes. That is why I questioned what oil filter to use. If there was something better than a OEM filter for full synthetic I would prefer to use it over stock. However, as stated by Huhwhye, most LC owners like to stay stock.
How much of mess would it be just to change the oil filter without doing a full oil change? If you're running syn oil and won't change it for 4K or more but want to change the filter at 2k or 3k? Anyone, anyone...?
i used wix filter for a while then i switched to royal purple synthetic and now use a K&N oil filter maybe i am just paying for the name but it makes me feel good inside.
and with the Royal Purple i change the filter every 5-6k and then the oil and filter after another 5-6k
seems to working well for me so far oil is still clean and no debree coming out with oil.
Went yesterday to the Toyota dealer and saw a display with 2 filters cut open; an orange and a Toyota OEM. After seeing this, now I can see the difference, the big black Toyota brand is superior. I have used the orange filters for years and never had problems, so the way I will do is that when oil change time comes, I'll look first for the OEM, but if it is not available, I will go with the orange.
Changing the stock filter half way between full oil changes seems to be the best option IMHO. thanks S&S1stCruzer, however, I am not exactly sure what you mean by: "If you're running syn oil and won't change it for 4K or more but want to change the filter at 2k or 3k? Anyone, anyone...?"
Changing the stock filter half way between full oil changes seems to be the best option IMHO. thanks S&S1stCruzer, however, I am not exactly sure what you mean by: "If you're running syn oil and won't change it for 4K or more but want to change the filter at 2k or 3k? Anyone, anyone...?"
It just what you wrote and others confirmed. That if you're running and extended drain oil like some synthetic brand and are not planning to change it for say 6,000miles could you change the oil filter at 3,000 miles? And if anyone has adopted this practice.
It just what you wrote and others confirmed. That if you're running and extended drain oil like some synthetic brand and are not planning to change it for say 6,000miles could you change the oil filter at 3,000 miles? And if anyone has adopted this practice.
Of course you could do this, but why? At any interval under 10,000 miles I would just change both, together. The OEM recommendation is 7500 miles and conventional oil, so using even higher quality components at a shorter intervals as proposed above will be fine.
For me, I look for practical and reasonable solutions to this type of issue, and a 5k interval is easy to remember/track, and I always use Mobil1. That's it. No special brew or secret filters or sending off samples in the mail. Life is way too short of bother with boutique oil, long intervals that require analysis, or generally over thinking this at all. If you have an interest in that sort of thing, I'm glad you do, because seeing the analysis reports of others has been interesting.
We have good evidence that intervals up to 10k and Mobil1 give good analysis results in 80 and 100 series Land Cruisers. That would be less than once per year, so I stick with 5K.
If I was doing one of those 25,000 miles drains with Amsoil (an irresponsible recommendation in my view) I would consider changing the filter along the way.
It just what you wrote and others confirmed. That if you're running and extended drain oil like some synthetic brand and are not planning to change it for say 6,000miles could you change the oil filter at 3,000 miles? And if anyone has adopted this practice.
That is exactly what i do on my rig. Change filter at 6k and then change oil and filter after another 6k so 12k miles total. and like stated above I use Royal Purple full synthetic and i swear by it.
Now in my daily / POS honda i run the mobil 1 synthetic 15w50 and a mobil 1 oil filter
1.) thicker cause i live in texas
2.) it burns a bit and this slows consumption
3.) I drive the s*** outta it and give it hell
4.) the 15w50 is not available in royal purple
I use a Purolator One filter. I think Purolator, Wix (who also makes the Napa filters), and Champion Labs make decent filters. The only filter I would never use is a Fram (or any of the other brands made by Fram). Inferior design and construction, but great marketing.
Here's a web site where the guy has taken apart many filters to see what's inside.
I recommend the Champion built (not affiliated with Champion Spark Plug) K&N "HP3001". I like the one inch nut built into the filter top for removal and the seal design insuring seal removal with the filter.
With this filter, the 2F oil change is equal to eight quarts.
Just curious what brand of oil & filter others are using for thier 2F engines. I have been using Redline Synthetic since I purchased the vehicle with less than 6k on the rebuilt engine. In addion, I am using the stock Toyota brand oil filters. Should I use another type of oil filter in conjunction with the oil type or are the stock filters adequate. I feel as if the Toyota filters are fine, however, others have reccomended a "better" oil filter. What do you think? Once again, thanks in advance for the info.
I have used them all;
the best is the newer Mobil 1 extended performance filters;
you do not have to, but I would recommend Mobil 1 synthetic
probably the High Mileage type.
I recommend the Champion built (not affiliated with Champion Spark Plug) K&N "HP3001". I like the one inch nut built into the filter top for removal and the seal design insuring seal removal with the filter.
With this filter, the 2F oil change is equal to eight quarts.
I stopped using K&N oil filters when the rubber seal decided to stay on the engine during the removal process and then seconded my decision when I K&N I had already bought the rubber seal had already separated from the oil filter can. WIX, Mobil 1, or Amsoil is the way to go.
