Offset fairlead needed for ARB bumper and a question about front recovery points

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D

dfinn

Joined
Mar 7, 2016
Threads
27
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210
Location
Sandy, UT
Sorry for all the bumper questions. First time installing one and it went pretty well but left me with a few questions that I'm not sure about.

Everything I've read about a synthetic line with the ARB deluxe bull bar bumper makes it seem like I need an offset hawse fairlead, like the one from Slee. I spoke to Slee about it and they couldn't confirm 100% without seeing the truck but made it also sound like I needed it. For now I've installed the Warn fairlead that comes with the winch and it looks OK to me. I think if I got an offset fairlead it would throw the angles off even more and have the rope being pulled up and out.

here's a pic of what mine currently looks like, with the spool full:

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Obviously that angle is going to change with some line out but does that seem OK or should I pick up one of the offset fairleads? The other benefit of the Slee fairlead is it's thicker which would help protect the line a bit and get it out closer to the edge of the bumper but it's only .25" thicker than this Warn one so I'm not sure it's enough to make a difference.


And a quick question on front recovery points since the ARB has none. Are these Trail Tailor hooks currently the best option for a 100 series?

Tow Points - 60 80 100 Series
 
IMHO, the TT recovery points are the best US option for use with the arb bumpers and yes you would benefit from an offset fairlead, especially when pulling on the last wrap of the line on the spool.... which is proper. I've not been able to locate the Roadsafe nor ARB frame mounted recovery points stateside, I'd love a link if you have one.
 
Stack another fairlead on top of the one you already have. That will eliminate any worries. It brings the fairlead out flush with the ARB opening.


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I had those recovery points shipped over from AU. Marks 4WD - Engine conversion, transmission conversion, low range gears, rock crawling gears and portal axles The AUD is less than the USD so it wasn't too bad, around $120 with shipping iirc. They are beefy as hell.

I've also had my line all the way out to the last 8-10 wraps for a single line pull and it wasn't rubbing the fairlead, it was actually nearly perfectly centered. The only fear I would have is what Stan outlined regarding the fairlead being so tucked back in that it may rub forward of the fairlead on the bumper recess if you have to pull from an extreme angle.

I wanted to sanity check myself before I posted this (lies, internet, blah blah blah...), so I ran out to the garage and pulled my line out. You'll see that it's not touching the fairlead when pulled straight out... granted you rarely ever have a straight pull, but you get the point.

IMG_20170707_164958905.webp
 
I ordered up the TT recovery points and they are on there way to me but I just noticed something while messing with my stock recovery points and shackles. The stock recovery points don't hang down below the bumper support pieces enough to get a shackle in there. Will I have the same issues with the TT ones or will those have more clearance?
 
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dfinn said:
I ordered up the TT recovery points and they are on there way to me but I just noticed something while messing with my stock recovery points and shackles. The stock recovery points don't hand down below the bumper support pieces enough to get a shackle in there. Will I have the same issues with the TT ones or will those have more clearance?
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Not sure about the TT ones, but the Jonsey URB's were the same way. They don't leave much room for the shackle. You have to either bend the skid plate, cut a small piece for access or install a small plate above the URB to get it just a little lower.
 
willbt said:
I've also had my line all the way out to the last 8-10 wraps for a single line pull and it wasn't rubbing the fairlead, it was actually nearly perfectly centered. The only fear I would have is what Stan outlined regarding the fairlead being so tucked back in that it may rub forward of the fairlead on the bumper recess if you have to pull from an extreme angle.

I wanted to sanity check myself before I posted this (lies, internet, blah blah blah...), so I ran out to the garage and pulled my line out. You'll see that it's not touching the fairlead when pulled straight out... granted you rarely ever have a straight pull, but you get the point.

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Hard to tell from pics but it looks like you either need to move the fairlead up or the trim the metal bumper behind it. Test: try unspooling all but 8-10 wraps and then spool in while feeding the winch line from either the extreme driver's or passenger side. In other words, make the winch line bunch up to one side. Not desirable but sometimes not avoidable. Also hold the hook/end down towards the ground. Will the winch line rub on that metal?
 
hoser said:
Hard to tell from pics but it looks like you either need to move the fairlead up or the trim the metal bumper behind it. Test: try unspooling all but 8-10 wraps and then spool in while feeding the winch line from either the extreme driver's or passenger side. In other words, make the winch line bunch up to one side. Not desirable but sometimes not avoidable. Also hold the hook/end down towards the ground. Will the winch line rub on that metal?
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I see what you're talking about in the photo, but I assure you there is no metal anywhere inside of that fairlead... That's an optical illusion from the terrible lighting in my photo. What you're seeing is the light reflecting off of the metal lateral support on the winch. If you look at the photo I posted above, you can sort of see what I mean. I'll take a better photo later.
 
Here is the set up I have. We used this in the 2016 36 hours of uwharrie and it worked well. The only issue was the wireless remote control over heating because it was 95 plus degrees.

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uzj100 said:
Here is the set up I have. We used this in the 2016 36 hours of uwharrie and it worked well. The only issue was the wireless remote control over heating because it was 95 plus degrees.
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Thanks. The 1.5 is perfect for the ARB. I was looking at that one as well in the 1.5" version. No issue with rope rubbing? Its about $20 cheaper than the offset version.
Hawse Fairleads – Factor 55
 
bamabrock said:
Thanks. The 1.5 is perfect for the ARB. I was looking at that one as well in the 1.5" version. No issue with rope rubbing? Its about $20 cheaper than the offset version.
Hawse Fairleads – Factor 55
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Just throwing this out there but I went with the @sleeoffroad offset 1.5" fairlead. I believe this is their "Gen 2" model.

Called up, spoke directly to Christo, excellent customer service.

I don't think you'll go wrong either way. @uzj100 has tons more experience than me.

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bozncsurf said:
Just throwing this out there but I went with the sleeoffroad offset 1.5" fairlead. I believe this is their "Gen 2" model.

Called up, spoke directly to Christo, excellent customer service.

$85 and you're supporting a company that supports us.

I don't think you'll go wrong either way. uzj100 has tons more experience than me.
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They make a good option and it would certainly work well as all the products I have from them do. Neither is a current sponsor of our 100 series forum HIH annual event though and I liked the larger opening and finish of the factor55 better when comparing the two, so I went with it.
 
bamabrock said:
They make a good option and it would certainly work well as all the products I have from them do. Neither is a current sponsor of our 100 series forum HIH annual event though and I liked the larger opening and finish of the factor55 better when comparing the two, so I went with it.
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Yes, the gunmetal finish looks great.

I didn't realize the the F55 opening was larger - honestly that would've been more appealing to me (less rub = less wear). Where are the dimensions / measurements?

I edited the above post to correct the "support" comment.

Post a pic - I'd like to see when you get it mounted up.

It does look like the bottom of the fairlead is thinner than Slee's where the "Slee offroad" logo / marketing is. The only thing wrong with the F55 in this pic is that it's mounted on a LR ;)

image.webp
 
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