Off Road/driving lights wiring question

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Joined
Nov 19, 2009
Threads
40
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317
Location
Sachse, Texas
So I picked up some cheap Hella lights.

Trying to get them wired up. Diagram shows you have a line going from the switch and tapping into the high beams. Does it matter which line on the high beams you tap into? 2 wires coming off the high beam socket are a red with blue stripe and a red with yellow stripe.

Sorry for the dumb question - first time to hook aux lights up.

Thanks!
 
I have some IPF lights and hooked them up all the way except for that because I was not sure. So I am curious also. I have the slee wiring harness though and was not sure to hook to theres or the original.
 
If there is a way to hook up them up without tapping into the high beams I would prefer this.

Is the reason to tap into the high beams so you can control the lights with the high beams and also to get power to the switch?

I'm using the switch that came with the lights. Unfortunately don't have the $70 oem aux switch!
 
If you want to control them with just a switch wire the high beam tap to a positive switch. ie take a positive wire off something like the radio or cig lighter and put that on one pole of the switch, then take the high beam wire(on the hella wiring harness) and put it on the other pole of the switch.

Hopefully this makes sense, I'm slightly overdosing on dayquil.
 
I have some IPF lights and hooked them up all the way except for that because I was not sure. So I am curious also. I have the slee wiring harness though and was not sure to hook to theres or the original.

I just wired up my Slee harness a few weeks ago. Originally I turned them on by an independent switch in the cab that sent 12v hot to a relay that kicked in the voltage to the lights. With the Slee harness there are two extra plugs, one for daytime running lights and the other for offroad lights. The daytime running lights are controlled by the low beams and the offroad lights are controlled by the high beams. I checked the wires on the offroad plug and found one was hot all the time while the other was the ground controlled by the high beam switch. Not sure about other years, but on my 92 the highbeams are turned on by connecting or switching on the ground. I then took the ground off my relay and tapped it into the ground off the Slee plug to turn on my relay when my high beams were engaged. Now I have offroad lights only when my highbeams are on and can also be turned off or on by the cab mounted switch. Hope that helps...

Steve
 
Thanks for the tips. I was actually looking at Slee's website last night and may end up ordering the aux light harness and headlight jumper. Really don't like the idea of tapping into the oem harness - and really like the idea of the plug and play slee harness. Only wish that dang switch wasn't $70!

I was hoping to have this ready to go by next week-end as we are driving up to Kansas for a pheasant hunt. But may just have to wait for slee harnesses and do it right.
 
The high beam tap is generally used to keep things "legal" for shops, i.e. if you are running your low beams and aux lamps and switch to your high beams it will open the aux lamp circuit so they don't get power and you can't run highs + aux. Just like the fog lamps turn off on my Dodge when I switch to high beams. I've never been a fan of that idea, if I need more light I want everything I have! But I think it has more to do with oncoming motorists, which doesn't happen much in the middle of nowhere.

I have 8 aux lights on my 80 and none are wired to the high beams, just a switch, a relay, and the lights. If it's necessary to have that wire hooked up to 12V then I would follow what lndcrz suggested above and find another circuit to tap into.


(If some of what I stated above is incorrect regarding legalities and high beams feel free to correct me, but this has always been my take on the matter)
 
Thanks for the tips. I was actually looking at Slee's website last night and may end up ordering the aux light harness and headlight jumper. Really don't like the idea of tapping into the oem harness - and really like the idea of the plug and play slee harness. Only wish that dang switch wasn't $70!

Here's what I purchased Slee - Light Harness for $45. I also installed the JD HIR bulbs to my low beams which combined probably added about 30 to 40% more light.
 
I ordered and installed slee's upgrade harness $45, the aux light harness $35, and just like you, did not want to coin out $70 for the switch, so I used the $5 switch that came with my offroad lights, and it works perfectly. You don't need the OEM switch, unless you just want the OEM look. (Someday, I will have it. Oh yes... I will.)
 
I actually ordered the HIR bulbs yesterday as well! Can't wait to actually see the road in a week or two
 
OK - another dumb question.
I 'm trying to get these lights wired up this week-end. I bought the slee aux light harness to connect to my high beams and the OEM light switch.

The slee instructions don't clarify the wiring on the switch.
-OEM switch has red, yellow, green and ground ( green/black stripe). red and yellow wire into the harness, so what is the solid green wire coming off the switch for and where do I connect it to?

I am about a 1/2:banana: when it comes to electrical.


Thanks in advance.
 
Oh yea - I'm also curious how you guys routed your wiring on the ARB? I'm putting the lights on the lower center brackets in front of the grille. Did you drill holes thru the ARB plate directly below the lights or did you just go over the back edge and under?

Pics would be nice.
 
It's my understanding that the green goes to ground and the green with black stripe goes to the dimmer switch or +12v for switch illumination. I might have it backwards though:meh:
From the switch package
IMG_0562.webp
IMG_0562.webp
 
Check these switches out also relays and wiring diagram.

Susquehanna MotorSports - Auto Performance Product
 
Check these switches out also relays and wiring diagram.

Susquehanna MotorSports - Auto Performance Product
You are my hero of the day, will be ordering this switch for $9
 
It's my understanding that the green goes to ground and the green with black stripe goes to the dimmer switch or +12v for switch illumination. I might have it backwards though:meh:
From the switch package
View attachment 480357

So if I wire them both to the dimmer switch - then green on switch goes to green on dimmer switch. and the green/black on switch goes to white/green on the dimmer switch - correct?
 
so instead of tapping into the highbeam i just wired my hellas wire to the battery then u control them with a switch had no issues used the hella relay and 15amp fuse wire and grounded to the frame....dont know bout the slee harness
 
so instead of tapping into the highbeam i just wired my hellas wire to the battery then u control them with a switch had no issues used the hella relay and 15amp fuse wire and grounded to the frame....dont know bout the slee harness

I liked the idea if the high beam option with the switch - then I can control if they are on with the highbeams or highbeams only. Can't think of any time I would want the spots and not everything else as well.
 
So if I wire them both to the dimmer switch - then green on switch goes to green on dimmer switch. and the green/black on switch goes to white/green on the dimmer switch - correct?

Sounds reasonable but i don't have mine installed yet so i can't say for sure. Quote from appletech in post #7 of this thread "For my installation, I cut into 2 of the 3 lines going to the rheostat. The Green/grey dotted line is your rheostat ground, and the white/grey spotted/green striped is your rheostat +"

I have been holding off on installing mine because they are fogs. I would like to be able to have just those on for dense fog or snow. Using the slee harnesses (which i am) this is not a built in option (or legal). I agree with you about the driving lights, if I want them on, I want everything on!!

Did your dimmer switch pop right out? I went out earlier today to take a peek at the dimmer wire color codes. Got all the blanks out as well as the mirror controls but the dimmer wont come out easily. I left the dash intact and just popped out the covers. I all most looks like the dimmer switch body is larger than the opening:meh:
 
You are my hero of the day, will be ordering this switch for $9

Thats what IH8MUD is about, sharing to make our rigs better:cheers:
 
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