Nuts and Bolts
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Coolerman
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I feel your pain! I went through this last year. I just happened to be reading THE FJ45LV thread by buckroseau and he had bought a bunch and sold me 20 of them to redo my hump. Might PM him to see if he has anymore?
Coolerman
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Don't have a clue what the FJ55 bolt specs are but the FJ40 specs are :
10mm x 1.25 x 50mm long with a 23mm shoulder and ground to a point to help guide them through the mounts...
Bad Coco
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Thanks! I'll check them out.
Update:
Got them on order. I don't know why I always forget about them for nuts and bolts. Cheaper than Fastenal as well... Thanks again!
Last edited:
Bad Coco
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glad I was finally able to give someone useful info for a change. Eric
Coolerman
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McMaster P/N 90955A101
Retainer Weld Nut
Steel, Plain
M6-1.0
1/2"W x 1-1/2"L x 11/32"H
$7.71 for Pkg of 10EA
Retainer Weld Nut
Steel, Plain
M6-1.0
1/2"W x 1-1/2"L x 11/32"H
$7.71 for Pkg of 10EA
Last edited:
Coolerman
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Awesome!
BTW these will also work for the fender aprons.
I've just added this to the spreadsheet!
BTW these will also work for the fender aprons.
I've just added this to the spreadsheet!
Eons ago in the first couple pages of this thread there were a couple of questions about strength and SS bolts. For the record I am not a metallurgist but I do have some experience in this area and my company has sold 100's of thousands of stainless nuts and bolts for non-auto related specialty applications.
The short version is that there are different grades of stainless and the most readily available is the cheap stuff, typically type 304 stainless. The threads on 304 are comparatively brittle and under tension will gall or just flat snap off.
For our applications we use type 316 (a slightly different recipe for the stainless) and it's worked well under tension. It's also more resistant to typical corrosive compounds that you're likely to run across. The downside is that type 316 is about 3x the price of the more common type 304 that you'd normally find in a bolt kit.
A couple of other unrelated comments:
A poster a while back mentioned a source for bolts in China. There are to my knowledge no manufacturers in the US for general use threaded hardware like nuts and bolts. They'd go out of business instantaneously as the Asian suppliers have a wildly lower cost base and fewer EPA type reg's to contend with, etc.
On a similar note, SS is a work hardened material which is why you seldom see compound angles in a stainless fitting. Hit it more than once to bend it to your desired shape and it's likely to have become too brittle during the second heat cycle.
Note:
I am a complete caveman with a wrench and don't know what kind of actual torque values that 316 SS threads would max out at. If you have a known high torque application you should verify that the threads will hold up w/ your supplier. The hardness of the fastener certainly will but the brittleness of it may not.
The short version is that there are different grades of stainless and the most readily available is the cheap stuff, typically type 304 stainless. The threads on 304 are comparatively brittle and under tension will gall or just flat snap off.
For our applications we use type 316 (a slightly different recipe for the stainless) and it's worked well under tension. It's also more resistant to typical corrosive compounds that you're likely to run across. The downside is that type 316 is about 3x the price of the more common type 304 that you'd normally find in a bolt kit.
A couple of other unrelated comments:
A poster a while back mentioned a source for bolts in China. There are to my knowledge no manufacturers in the US for general use threaded hardware like nuts and bolts. They'd go out of business instantaneously as the Asian suppliers have a wildly lower cost base and fewer EPA type reg's to contend with, etc.
On a similar note, SS is a work hardened material which is why you seldom see compound angles in a stainless fitting. Hit it more than once to bend it to your desired shape and it's likely to have become too brittle during the second heat cycle.
Note:
I am a complete caveman with a wrench and don't know what kind of actual torque values that 316 SS threads would max out at. If you have a known high torque application you should verify that the threads will hold up w/ your supplier. The hardness of the fastener certainly will but the brittleness of it may not.
Very interesting, thanks!
Coolerman
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Arghhhhhhhhh.....
Has ANYONE heard from Kevin@boltdepot about pricing or their quotes? I can no longer wait to order bolts and can't afford to wait weeks to get a simple bolt order.
Merbelsfield: What was the final answer to the pricing?
Has ANYONE heard from Kevin@boltdepot about pricing or their quotes? I can no longer wait to order bolts and can't afford to wait weeks to get a simple bolt order.
Merbelsfield: What was the final answer to the pricing?
Nope....
x2 - "I can no longer wait to order bolts and can't afford to wait weeks to get a simple bolt order. "
I am checking with local Auveco dealers....
x2 - "I can no longer wait to order bolts and can't afford to wait weeks to get a simple bolt order. "
I am checking with local Auveco dealers....
Looks like we are back to square 1.
Just spoke with the local auveco rep and most of the part numbers for the M6 and M8 bolts have either been discontinued or are only available in bright zinc.
The rep is looking at other manufacturers and I will let you know if another distributor pops up.
Just spoke with the local auveco rep and most of the part numbers for the M6 and M8 bolts have either been discontinued or are only available in bright zinc.
The rep is looking at other manufacturers and I will let you know if another distributor pops up.
The codes for all the cruiser bolts and torques are decoded in the Worskshop manual. Page 14-23
Theres a method to the madness:
I.E. 91111-40620 Last set of digits: 4= Bolt head mark; 06=Major diameter of thread 20=Grip length (from under head to end)
Have any of you guys tried Caswells plating kit? I have and have had great success!
Theres a method to the madness:
I.E. 91111-40620 Last set of digits: 4= Bolt head mark; 06=Major diameter of thread 20=Grip length (from under head to end)
Have any of you guys tried Caswells plating kit? I have and have had great success!
Coolerman
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Yes this was covered on Page 6, post #159 of this thread.
Are you buying zinc bolts then replating them with the Caswell kit? If so give some detailed information about this.
but in 
aviation you cannot use ANY kind of stainless steel for structural elements....just my 0.02
No word from Kevin...
I'm just going to get from a local hardware source. Not worried about reproduction finishes. Zinc will do. Fit, form and function is what I'm going for.
I'm just going to get from a local hardware source. Not worried about reproduction finishes. Zinc will do. Fit, form and function is what I'm going for.
