Not related but just discovered: seizing rear trunk lock and wet rear trunk carpet

[landarcht]

I just discovered these two things with my 2005 100 series, hopefully they are fairly minor.
1- on very cold days, the rear lock seems not want to open, I can hear it click when the remote is pressed, but won't unlock, like there's a delay or something not making the latch want to open, will some greasing help? It clicks but feels like it's not moving enough to unlock it, on normal temp. days it seems to work.

2- I just noticed rear trunk carpet is wet along the bottom plastic trimming, including the upper OEM removable rug, basically the bottom 10" or so across from left to right, what's causing this? Not sure how long it's been, but it's been raining quite a bit, is this weatherstripping? Trying to find source of the leak.

 

[Aracobuilt]

It's most likely your third brake light. That is the most common culprit for leaks in that area.

 

[landarcht]

I read it could be the top center one? I will check it out..

 

[Aracobuilt]

If not damaged, you could also try applying silicone to your weatherstripping before replacing it.

I read it could be the top center one? I will check it out..

Yes, that is you third brake light. Over time the lens slightly deforms causing water intrusion.

 

[Zuberg]

For the rear lock check your battery condition and connections first, given the fact it acts up when cold. Recently had to solve this issue on my sister's 05 seqouia. After monkeying around in the rear hatch for an hour checking cables, latches etc (rear hatch was locked shut so that was fun). I popped the hood and found loose and corroded connection. Cleaned it all up and voila, lock throws open perfectly and it still works great a month later.

Can only assume that the lock being the rearmost point and longest wire run, it wasn't getting enough power to throw the lock. The doors were unlocking just fine.

 

[landarcht]

Are you referring to the main battery connection on top? Battery is new and connections clean. Or is there other connections that feeds the rear locks? All door locks work just fine.

 

[Zuberg]

Are you referring to the main battery connection on top? Battery is new and connections clean. Or is there other connections that feeds the rear locks? All door locks work just fine.

Yes, sorry I meant main battery. If that looks good then it may just be a tired motor in the back. Not uncommon on the lock motors in these vehicles.

 

[Jack90210]

Butyl "rope" sealant seems to be the medium of choice for re-sealing the 3rd brake light housing.

 

[landarcht]

Just took car to car wash and looks like the water is como coming in from the sides of the rear trunk door so that tells me it's bad weather strip. But visually it looks fine, I guess they lose ability to seal after 20 years.. Are they glued on?

 

[Aracobuilt]

Apply Shin-Etsu silicone grease on the weatherstripping. It might solve your issue without having to replace it.

 

[cqhall]

The weather seals on my rear hatch were the source of the water leaking into my trunk (2005 LX470 with OEM big rear wing). Not crazy expensive and easy to do yourself.

 

[landarcht]

Did some read up on that Shin-Etsu silicone grease, very interesting and much cheaper than new weatherstripping as mine still look pretty good, going to give it a try.

 

[Greenbean]

Back in the days when I worked for Honda/Acura and we had the NSX and S2K this was our go to stuff for the seals on the targa top and weatherstrips for tops and such. It makes it look great but also repels dirt and the seals don’t attract AS MUCH debris and such.

On an NSX-T if the seals get dirty they don’t leak often but wow that make crazy noises when driving them. We sold tubes and tubes of that stuff, I keep tubes in the house and the shed for the vehicles.

Works great on old Honda Accords where the door seal would stick a little and make it hard to open your doors.

Man I’m OLD!!!

 

[Carpati]

Actuator on my rear hatch stopped working completely on 2003 LandCruiser, after working intermittently for a period. Replacing the actuator did not solve the problem. I brought it to a local automotive electrical shop. Rather than do an extensive and costly project, they recommended hooking the wiring for the hatch actuator into the wires powering the actuator for the drivers rear door , same side on vehicle, and it works fine. My old rear hatch actuator was fine, and now I have a spare. I also had replaced my driver's door actuator beforehand, and that repair worked. One note, the shop had extensive online vehicle schematics - except their source didn't include the Landcruiser. I provided them a USB with the electrical from the Service Manual. Hope this helps. Good luck!