Non-US 1977 FJ43 carb - fuel return questions

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Jun 16, 2026
Threads
1
Messages
2
Location
Texas
This is the first time I 've posted and I would appreciate some assistance. I've always admired the FJ40/43 but never owned one. I grew up with solid lifter, carbureted 1960's pickups and have rebuilt a few engines and carburetors in my time and we have a well equipped farm workshop. I recently purchased a 1977 FJ43 from a relative who brought it home from South America after retiring from the DEA. He'd had a lot of paint, body and interior work done but the engine appears fairly stock from what I can tell except for a more modern electronic ignition. There is no documentation. These past few years It has been rarely driven and takes a lot to start it. If it starts it seems to run very lean, backfiring through the carb and occasionally through the exhaust despite a few efforts to make adjustments. It also gets hot enough to make the exhaust manifold glow red if it is left in a fast idle for 10 min or so. So far I've drained the gas tank and replaced the fuel and fuel filter and vacuum lines (There are very few on this non-US vehicle.) I have plans to rebuild or replace the carb. The carburetor appears to be a stock 2 bbl with a banjo type fuel return on the side adjacent to the fuel line tap into the carb. However the bolt that holds the banjo style fuel return is hollow with a small hole drilled on the side. It does not appear to have any other metering device / valve inside as I've seen described. I cannot determine if carb rebuild kits have this or if this part is available to purchase separately. Most of the new Chinese carbs have a hole on the side that could be drilled and tapped for this bolt to hold the fuel return line but I would still possibly have a faulty fuel return metering bolt if I use the one I have. Please let me know your ideas. I will try to attach photos soon.
 
A wall of text is too hard to read, paragraphs are your friend.

Banjo bolts have a hole in the side and threw the shank. It is a 90 degree connection not a regulator as far as I have seen.

Check/set the valve lash, points if it has them and ignition timing. Then do a dry and wet compression test. How are the plugs and wires? Look at the contacts inside the dizzy cap - aluminum ones get a layer of oxide quickly which is an insulator - carefully scrape it off.

Check for vacuum leaks - they can make it run lean/hot. Brake booster can leak - #5 cylinder will be affected first and worst usually.

Free download of manuals.

Coolermans wiring diagrams and parts.

Carb work isn't for everyone. Find some vid's and see if it seems up your ally. There are folks here that rebuild them.
 
It does not appear to have any other metering device / valve inside as I've seen described.
The metering device is the needle valve. When that valve is closed, fuel is re-directed to the fuel return line.

20250127_150623 - Copy.webp


20250127_150649 - Copy.webp
 
The restrictor in the banjo bolt is to bias fuel in favor of being delivered. It will never take TOO MUCH fuel away from the carburetor. And if it were completely plugged, it’s still not likely to be the source of your issue.
 
Thank you all for your prompt responses. Some of this has already been addressed but there is much here to look into. Thank you especially for the photos and links.

I'm glad to know the metering bolt in the fuel return is unable to send to much fuel back to the tank and only meters the return through the small hole. Now I can proceed with other possibilities. Hopefully this weekend will allow me a bit of time to look into some of it.

S
 
Back
Top Bottom