Noisy Cruiser

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Feb 5, 2018
Threads
75
Messages
338
Location
Salt Lake City
I have a new noise that is a development of probably the last month. Sounds like something shaking around in an aluminum can. Not really consistent but it's also hard to tell. Only under acceleration. Valves were adjusted 12,300 miles ago. Here's a video clip.

Anybody know what it is?
I also have squeaky belt syndrome... have replaced belts and power steering pulley. Stayed quiet for a few months and is now annoying as hell again. What's the actual fix for this?
TIA
 
I have a new noise that is a development of probably the last month. Sounds like something shaking around in an aluminum can. Not really consistent but it's also hard to tell. Only under acceleration. Valves were adjusted 12,300 miles ago. Here's a video clip.

Anybody know what it is?
I also have squeaky belt syndrome... have replaced belts and power steering pulley. Stayed quiet for a few months and is now annoying as hell again. What's the actual fix for this?
TIA

Sounds to me like it's pinging a lot, but I can't be sure.

Please confirm year and engine.

Does the 3F-E have knock sensors?

Check fuel, check timing.
 
Sounds to me like it's pinging a lot, but I can't be sure.

Please confirm year and engine.

Does the 3F-E have knock sensors?

Check fuel, check timing.
You could say it sounds like pinging. Sorry, forgot to clarify, it is a 3FE. Don't believe it has knock sensors.
 
Try a tankful of premium and see if it goes away. If so, it's pinging.
Why would that be? How would I correct it?
Also, I'm 3,750 miles on an oil change. Usually I go for 3,000 but I get it analyzed every time and it came back with low enough iron last time so I'm trying 5,000 miles. I use full synthetic mobil1 high mileage 10w-30. Would that cause anything?
 
Why would that be? How would I correct it?
Also, I'm 3,750 miles on an oil change. Usually I go for 3,000 but I get it analyzed every time and it came back with low enough iron last time so I'm trying 5,000 miles. I use full synthetic mobil1 high mileage 10w-30. Would that cause anything?
Read up on pinging/predetonation.

Fuel quality and timing are the first things to check, as BILT4ME said.
 
I had some rattling and it was related to the heat shields for the exhaust system. Mine was downline on the catalytic converter shields. Tightened them down with a stainless worm clamp and that stopped the rattling for me.
 
I had some rattling and it was related to the heat shields for the exhaust system. Mine was downline on the catalytic converter shields. Tightened them down with a stainless worm clamp and that stopped the rattling for me.
Ah yes; easy thing to check. :beer:

Demonic, if it really is engine pinging and higher octane fixes it, you can actually consider that a permanent fix if you don't mind using only premium. I've been doing that with one of my rigs for 10+ years now. :lol:
 
Ah yes; easy thing to check. :beer:

Demonic, if it really is engine pinging and higher octane fixes it, you can actually consider that a permanent fix if you don't mind using only premium. I've been doing that with one of my rigs for 10+ years now. :lol:
I guess I should also add that I only noticed it in-gear and very low RPM, so I had a hard time tracking it down initially. I read a tip that someone put the parking brake on and threw it into drive to go and listen for the noise, definitely helped with tracking it down in my case. Just make sure it won't run off anywhere on ya!
 
I had the rattle on throttle load too- ran a few bottles of injector cleaner with some full tanks of premium and the noise has hidden itself ...i consider that fixed.

Also have a wits end plugs/wires/distri kit and a new fuel filter ready to go on to assist fuel delivery.
 
I had some rattling and it was related to the heat shields for the exhaust system. Mine was downline on the catalytic converter shields. Tightened them down with a stainless worm clamp and that stopped the rattling for me.
I had this issue in many areas as well, eliminated it completely by paying out of my ass for a full new exhaust system.

Will try tank of premium and see what happens. I think my fuel filter is suspect too as it's been through some stuff in its time and hasn't been replaced but I just know I'll break the lines.
 
I listened to this and it does appear to sound quite similar.

This is going to be fun! The guy in the video is making It sound like the end of the world if not corrected, but is it really?
 
I listened to this and it does appear to sound quite similar.

This is going to be fun! The guy in the video is making It sound like the end of the world if not corrected, but is it really?

Yes, it is bad. It can blow holes in the top of the piston or cause a head gasket failure.

What pre-ignition is, is the fuel is igniting before the spark plug is firing and the piston is still on it's way up in the cylinder on the compression stroke.

So, as the piston is coming up, the fuel explodes, trying to push the piston down, but the rotating mass and the other cylinders are still firing, forcing the piston to continue to move up and increase the pressure inside the cylinder exponentially. This causes all kinds of severe pressures inside the engine that will exceed what it's designed for.

This can blow holes in pistons, blow spark plugs out of the head, blow head gaskets, burn valves, wreck connecting rod bearings, and even break crankshafts. The longer it goes, the more heat and pressure it builds, making it worse.

You need to address it.

Run some higher octane fuel (preferably WITHOUT ethanol) and check your base timing.

This needs to be diagnosed.
 
Yes, it is bad. It can blow holes in the top of the piston or cause a head gasket failure.

What pre-ignition is, is the fuel is igniting before the spark plug is firing and the piston is still on it's way up in the cylinder on the compression stroke.

So, as the piston is coming up, the fuel explodes, trying to push the piston down, but the rotating mass and the other cylinders are still firing, forcing the piston to continue to move up and increase the pressure inside the cylinder exponentially. This causes all kinds of severe pressures inside the engine that will exceed what it's designed for.

This can blow holes in pistons, blow spark plugs out of the head, blow head gaskets, burn valves, wreck connecting rod bearings, and even break crankshafts. The longer it goes, the more heat and pressure it builds, making it worse.

You need to address it.

Run some higher octane fuel (preferably WITHOUT ethanol) and check your base timing.

This needs to be diagnosed.
I’ve run 92 octane for 450 miles now and no change in sound at all. I also noticed it only happens when the car is in gear. If i rev the engine in park or neutral, it sounds completely normal. Then I put it in drive and rev the engine (with the brake all the way applied) and the noise is apparent. Does that change anything?
 
I’ve run 92 octane for 450 miles now and no change in sound at all. I also noticed it only happens when the car is in gear. If i rev the engine in park or neutral, it sounds completely normal. Then I put it in drive and rev the engine (with the brake all the way applied) and the noise is apparent. Does that change anything?
Detonation of any significance only occurs under load.

This points even more to detonation.

Knock sensors
Knock sensor wires
Coolant temperature sensors
Properly adjusting timing.
 
My ujoints when they were done in my Chevy made a lot of ting noises might check those
 
Back
Top Bottom