No Spark

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HCP2311

HCP2311

Joined
Apr 18, 2024
Threads
11
Messages
54
Location
USA
After tracing down a dead fuel pump and replacing it with a Quantum I've arrived at no spark. I've been following the FSM, and tried sparking the high-tension wire against the ground and nothing, turns out I'm only getting .3v in to the coil. I moved up the line to the Igniter and while I can't seem to find a pinout for the ignitor I've still not getting 12v from any of the harness pins to ground. The center pin of the igniter is labeled "B" (Maybe for battery?), I do get .6v there and a negligible .02v from another pin in the harness. The 50, 60, and 30amp fuses are good at .0 ohms. FSM just says to "Try a different Igniter" but that flowchart doesn't account for low voltage INTO the ignitor and Coil. It does say "Check wiring between starter and coil/igniter, I am assuming the wiring is good since everything else is working and the starter runs like the MVP. Any suggestions?

The Igniter doesn't seem to be serviceable, I took it apart earlier and its filled with "No-Touch silicon".

P.S I've decided to name this one Lazarus, because its clearly going to take an Act of God to get it rolling again. lol
 
If it were me I would be revisiting everything I touched while replacing the fuel pump.....
 
leonard_nemoy said:
If it were me I would be revisiting everything I touched while replacing the fuel pump.....
Click to expand...
That would just be the fuel pump, I had 11.8v going to the pump, but even with direct 12v to the old pump it wouldn't run. I don't know if the vehicle had spark before I replaced the pump or not. I picked it up head off from a guy who had bought it head off.
 
Back up.
If you're not getting +12 to the coil with the key in the ON position, then I would check the fusible links off the positive battery terminal.
Both the igniter and the ignition coil get fed +12 from the same source.
Download the Toyota EWD.
 
HCP2311 said:
93 1FZ-FE U.S

I've got these three ideas lined up for tomorrow.
Crank position sensor resistance
B+ ODB1 voltage
CEL bulb
Click to expand...
You have a power source issue. If this truck has an unknown history, go back to the beginning and start from the battery and work your way downstream.
The Toyota EWD is invaluable and can be downloaded from the resources section.

With the key in the ON position before cranking the starter, the CHECK ENGINE light should illuminate, assuming the bulb is good. No CEL=no start.
The CEL with the key in the ON position before cranking the starter indicates that the ECU is in a "ready state" and that the EFI system is functioning. No CEL=no start. Right now, that is the only thing you should be concerned with.

Fusible links are always the first thing to check. There are 3 off the positive battery terminal and each one feeds a seperate sub-system. This is all documented in the EWD.

A cursory check of all 3 fusible links in system. This assumes an unmolested OEM configuration.
FL AM1 - Dome lights working?
FL AM2 - When you turn the key to ON does the CHARGE LAMP light up?
FL MAIN - Brake lights working?
If yes to all 3, then all 3 fusible links are intact.

1715434642991.webp
 
jonheld said:
Back up.
If you're not getting +12 to the coil with the key in the ON position, then I would check the fusible links off the positive battery terminal.
Both the igniter and the ignition coil get fed +12 from the same source.
Download the Toyota EWD.
Click to expand...
I'm getting nothing from this guy. The others are throwing .1 but my multi is being a PITA this morning and zeroing out at .1

Do I need to buy the link from Toyota or can I just rewire it? There is also nothing visually wrong with it.

PXL_20240511_135949998~2.webp
 
jonheld said:
With the key in the ON position before cranking the starter, the CHECK ENGINE light should illuminate, assuming the bulb is good. No CEL=no start.
The CEL with the key in the ON position before cranking the starter indicates that the ECU is in a "ready state" and that the EFI system is functioning. No CEL=no start. Right now, that is the only thing you should be concerned with.


A cursory check of all 3 fusible links in system. This assumes an unmolested OEM configuration.
FL AM1 - Dome lights working?
FL AM2 - When you turn the key to ON does the CHARGE LAMP light up?
FL MAIN - Brake lights working?
If yes to all 3, then all 3 fusible links are intact.

View attachment 3629338
Click to expand...
Just saw this, I've got headlights, brake lights and Dome lights, no CEL, but the EGR has been deleted so the bulb may not be there at all.
 
Seems like it’s a fussable link then.
I just inspected mine and the grey connector behind battery positive had a corroded wire that was hanging on by one last single wire. When I disconnected it the truck behaved just like you described. Crank no start no cel all other functions worked.
 
I'm going to see about rewiring the plug and see where that gets me. Just called the dealer and they are digging for a new link. If this is the problem... Lord please grant me patience. I've looked at this guy several times, including cleaning the contacts. It never occurred to me to actually check and see if the wire was intact.
 
HCP2311 said:
I'm going to see about rewiring the plug and see where that gets me. Just called the dealer and they are digging for a new link. If this is the problem... Lord please grant me patience. I've looked at this guy several times, including cleaning the contacts. It never occurred to me to actually check and see if the wire was intact.
Click to expand...
The picture you posted has a bastard wire that is NOT a fusible link.
OEM fusible link set 90982-08264 about $17 from a Toyota dealer.
You can't check fusible links with your eyeballs. They have a silicone flameproof jacket that is color coded to industry standard for the amperage rating.
There are 3:
PINK=30 amps (FL AM2)
BLACK=80 amps (FL AM1)
BLUE=100 amps (FL MAIN)

1715440376289.png


FL AM1 and FL MAIN terminate at a black hinged junction box 82670-60040.

1715440336379.png
 
Last edited:
I've got the link and junction on order. I made a temp connection to test. I've now got 11.9v at the coil, transmission, CEL, charge and oil pressure lights, spark, fuel and at least some combustion... I also have so much pressure under the valve cover I can barely remove the oil cap. Still doesn't run, but she's trying. I'm probably about to find out while she was put out to pasture. I'll see about some pressure testing after lunch. Thanks for all the help ya'll.
 
jonheld said:
Back up.
If you're not getting +12 to the coil with the key in the ON position, then I would check the fusible links off the positive battery terminal.
Both the igniter and the ignition coil get fed +12 from the same source.
Download the Toyota EWD.
Click to expand...
Jonheld has spoken! He who has 1 half of 1 brain shall heed his words as the Gospel for he is the almighty wizard of Cruiser electrickery.
 
Were you able to have any luck with your rig, HCP2311? I'm dealing with similar issues. I'm near my breaking point to where I'm just going to take it into a shop.

The same issues where everything electrical seems to operate, but no CEL when opening the key. So she'll turn, but no start. I've already replaced the fusible link, EFI relay, and checked fuses inside the cabin and those under the hood.
 
rsocalguy07 said:
Were you able to have any luck with your rig, HCP2311? I'm dealing with similar issues. I'm near my breaking point to where I'm just going to take it into a shop.

The same issues where everything electrical seems to operate, but no CEL when opening the key. So she'll turn, but no start. I've already replaced the fusible link, EFI relay, and checked fuses inside the cabin and those under the hood.
Click to expand...
The ignition circuit link was bad for me. Besides CEL do you have other lights when you power on? There should be a red light next to your voltmeter, transmission light and an oil pressure/temp light when the key is on.
 
HCP2311 said:
The ignition circuit link was bad for me. Besides CEL do you have other lights when you power on? There should be a red light next to your voltmeter, transmission light and an oil pressure/temp light when the key is on.
Click to expand...
Here's an image of the lights that turn on when the key is turned to open. So I think all of the ones you've called out are on.

Also, I had the battery out on a trickle charger and just installed it back in yesterday...now AFTER installing the battery back in, the CEL initially came on. Could that be an indication of anything? Also, everything else works (lights, horn, a/c, windows, etc), except for the stereo. I'm wondering if that's also telling me something? Thanks again!

LC Dash 07.01.24.webp
 
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