No spark (1 Viewer)

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Hello, I’m new here, I have a problem with my 91 Fj80, I have no spark. I have on the coil pack G/B wire 12.5 volts, on the B/W wire I have the same voltage, why?. I check cables to EFI relay and have 12.5 volts, buy new distributor, buy new igniter. And nothing, I got power in the fuel pump, CEL Working with the switch, no CEL driving it. Any help from you guys will be good. Thanks.
 
Hello, I’m new here, I have a problem with my 91 Fj80, I have no spark. I have on the coil pack G/B wire 12.5 volts, on the B/W wire I have the same voltage, why?. I check cables to EFI relay and have 12.5 volts, buy new distributor, buy new igniter. And nothing, I got power in the fuel pump, CEL Working with the switch, no CEL driving it. Any help from you guys will be good. Thanks.
More information needed.
Was this car fine one day and dead the next with no hands touching anything?
Please provide background information leading up to the problem.
 
Last edited:
Hello thanks for answering, today I check the codes on the OBD1 and I got. 12,24,51. I check the codes and I don’t know what they mind, jajaj . All the codes name the maf
 
Hello thanks for answering, today I check the codes on the OBD1 and I got. 12,24,51. I check the codes and I don’t know what they mind, jajaj . All the codes name the maf
Code 12 points to the distributor: no NE or G signal to ECU while cranking=no spark
Code 24 is the IAT signal from the AFM-engine should still run but A/F ratio will be wrong.
Code 51 could be several things, but nothing points to the AFM for that code.
 
Code 12 points to the distributor: no NE or G signal to ECU while cranking=no spark
Code 24 is the IAT signal from the AFM-engine should still run but A/F ratio will be wrong.
Code 51 could be several things, but nothing points to the AFM for that code.
So it can be out of time? or just the distributor went out? I check the little coils inside the distributor and the ohms, I got was 240 on both. Now I don’t know if I’m reading it wrong or no, thanks for your help.
 
So it can be out of time? or just the distributor went out? I check the little coils inside the distributor and the ohms, I got was 240 on both. Now I don’t know if I’m reading it wrong or no, thanks for your help.
Is that an OEM distributor?
Spec for the pick up coils is 140-180 ohms. I don't know how that would effect the ECU.
Also, make certain the ECU is "seeing" the distributor. Connector E4 pins 4, 18, and 17.

Distributor.jpg
 
Is that an OEM distributor?
Spec for the pick up coils is 140-180 ohms. I don't know how that would effect the ECU.
Also, make certain the ECU is "seeing" the distributor. Connector E4 pins 4, 18, and 17.

View attachment 2441086
Thanks, so how I check for signal in the ECU just trace thecables
 
Is that an OEM distributor?
Spec for the pick up coils is 140-180 ohms. I don't know how that would effect the ECU.
Also, make certain the ECU is "seeing" the distributor. Connector E4 pins 4, 18, and 17.

View attachment 2441086
Hello me again, I have the original distributor and a aftermarket, both show me the same reeds 222 ohms. On G and NE.

image.jpg


image.jpg
 
Thanks, so how I check for signal in the ECU just trace thecables
I would hook up the distributor and put a meter on the ecu connector and read across the coils. It should read very close to what you read off the distributor directly.
 
I would hook up the distributor and put a meter on the ecu connector and read across the coils. It should read very close to what you read off the distributor directly.
Ok, what I read on distributor by itself, I read it on pin 4,17,18 on ECU connector, I check the rotors spins. It got timing correct
 
Ok, what I read on distributor by itself, I read it on pin 4,17,18 on ECU connector, I check the rotors spins. It got timing correct
Then put it all back together, pull the 15 amp EFI fuse in the under hood fuse box for about 15 minutes. This will clear out any old stored codes and force the ECU to relearn all the sensors.
Maybe you're chasing an old code.
 
Then put it all back together, pull the 15 amp EFI fuse in the under hood fuse box for about 15 minutes. This will clear out any old stored codes and force the ECU to relearn all the sensors.
Maybe you're chasing an old code.
Nothing, is driving me crazy, not start, check codes back again 12 and 51. What other thing I can do.
 
It might be time to swap in another known good ECU.
Ok today I’m going to buy a new one to see if it works, it will take like a week to be delivered, here on South Carolina, and probably buy a harness or no, if someone have one ECU near Grenville S.C to buy it, i will buy it. Thanks for your help. I’m really appreciate.
 
Ok today I’m going to buy a new one to see if it works, it will take like a week to be delivered, here on South Carolina, and probably buy a harness or no, if someone have one ECU near Grenville S.C to buy it, i will buy it. Thanks for your help. I’m really appreciate.
Keep in mind that the FJ80 ECU has been discontinued from Toyota for quite some time now. Anything you get will be a used unit, and I would suggest contacting some of the used parts dealers here on mud for a "known good" part rather than someone outside of the community.
 
There is an online store that I just found that looks interesting, but I don't know if the unit is in stock. These guys also offer a "loaner program" for diagnosis at a reasonable cost.
 
Looking back over this thread, you never answered my first question in post #2, so I'll ask you again.

More information needed.
Was this car fine one day and dead the next with no hands touching anything?
Please provide background information leading up to the problem.
 

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