No Power - Won't Rev over 3K RPM's

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MrOffshore

MrOffshore

10 Year 15 Year
Joined
Dec 23, 2009
Threads
32
Messages
261
Location
Indiana
Website
www.intechrv.com
Having an issue with my 96' Land Cruiser...background, 211,000 miles, replaced engine at 200K miles with a used motor that had 70K miles. Truck ran fine. Have not had any issues, then truck died on road, would not restart, I was not driving it. Towed the truck approximately 200 miles, I was not there when it was towed. Picked up truck, brought it home, coil wire to distributor was off, put wire back on, truck started right away. Drove truck and it was not shifting correctly...would not go over 40mph. Checked tranny fluid, VERY low, added tranny fluid, test drove, feels about the same, won't go over 3K RPM...even in neutrel it will not rev over 3K. Not shifting well at all, but thinking that's related to not developing any power. Not sure where to look first. Any ideas?
 
Probably not a good thing to be low on tranny fluid, but how did the coil wire come off? I would also check the harness by the EGR valve, seems to be a common problem.
 
I'll check the harness...no codes were set...not sure why. One more bit of information...the hose that goes from the EGR Vacuum Module to the EGR Valve was off...hissing, I reconnected it and the hose split. It looks like this is a formed hose and is probably able to handle high heat, when I first tried to reconnect it, it was too hot to touch. I put on some temporary fuel line and clamped (the I.D. was a bit big), now that I had the proper line back in place, I figured it might run, but it still did not build any RPM's...thought maybe the hose wasn't able to handle the heat and maybe the inside liner came apart...not sure if it did or not, but I decided to just pull it off and see how it ran...did not fix anything, but melted the hose as it laid underneath the EGR Vacuum Modulator that was throwing out the scolding hot air. It also, unfortunately melted the surface of my black plastic cover that sits on top of the valve cover and hides the spark plug wires and covers access to the spark plugs.

I have to think this is something rather simple. Thanks for the input.
 
I had a similar issue on an old rx7 after I replaced the fuel filter with a cheap aftermarket unit. It must of fell apart internally because after replacing pumps and scratching my head for a while pulled the filter and couldn't blow through it like you should be able to. If you replaced that while doing the engine or in general, may be worth looking into although a PITA to get to on these.
 
Well, I thought the culprit was the EGR Vacuum Modulator...replace it, NOPE. Hate hanging parts, but thought that was the issue. I replaced the formed silicone, heat resistant hose that goes from the EGR to the bottom the EGR Vacuum Modulator...the truck has no power and the hose keeps blowing off the EGR and hissing.

Here's what I am thinking, but hate to hang parts...potentially have a clogged catalytic converter ($350-400), when in gear I can hear a slight rattling down by what I think is the catalytic converter, read on another post that it could be coming apart and crap is rattling around, but not certain. OR, I could be dealing with carbon build up in the throttle body, believing that trekker9 mean cleaning this out when he posted "blow it out"...read a few great posts on working in this area. Aside from that, it could be just about any EGR/emission related component...but I have NO codes.

One other thing I will mention is that I am getting some oil blowing out the top of the valve cover...it's even caking onto the hood liner, almost sludge like buildup on the liner...just oily on the cover and blowing back over the valve cover. Doesn't look like a leaking valve cover gasket, coming from higher up...PVC or the other hose in the valve cover that goes up to the throttle body...not making any sense.

Funny thing about this forum, I can't seem to search anything, I have better luck doing a Google search for my problem and it finds the right thread in this forum. Oh well, any insight is appreciated.
 
^^^^^^^^^ A restricted exhaust system (regardless where it is) will definitely prevent your engine from building RPM.

The CAT(s) should be easy to check (preliminary). If you take the temperature from just in front of the CAT and the temperature where it exits the CAT...there should be roughly 100° F. difference. IF you don't see this...then your CAT is quite possibly clogged or failing. You can also have the muffler checked for excessive back pressure.
 
Well, after some additional reading and the comments above, I decided to go ahead and pull the catalytic converter down...no surprise I believe this is the culprit...it's literally brand new with less than 5000 miles on it...more likely less than 2000 miles. But the front catalytic converter came apart and blew into the second one and melted. Not happy with that. I ordered a new one, but would think I could crush up the last little bit of catalyst remaining in the front one and use it empty, but I am sure I would get check engine light issues, so I might as well fix it right.

Image here shows the backside of the second catalytic converter...the honeycomb looks fine.
IMG_7258.webp

This image shows the front side of the second catalytic converter...the honeycomb is about 98% blocked...thus the total loss of power, I can't believe the engine would even run, but this explains what sounded like an exhaust leak under throttle by the exhaust manifold...pressure built and forced exhausts out the between the gaskets...this also caused the silicone tube to blow off the EGR and shoot hot exhaust all over the valve covers melting the plastic cover. And, I could hear the loose catalyst in the front catalytic converter rattling around under throttle...sounded like a loose heat shield.
IMG_7259.webp

This image shows all of the debris that came out of the first and second catalytic converters.
IMG_7261.webp

This image is looking down the front catalytic converter...all you can see is one small piece of broken off catalyst...it was too big to fit out of the opening, but it could be broken up and shaken out.
IMG_7262.webp

I think I will send this front catalytic converter back to the garage that sold it to me and see if they will give me a new one, I can hang on to it or sell it. If the one I just ordered from RockAuto lasts only as long as this one, I might need another one. Disappointed, but glad it wasn't anything more severe...pulling the two catalytic converters down was a 20 minute job...the bolts were all pretty fresh as it was just replaced recently, only snapped one, so that wasn't too bad. Wondering if I ask them to replace the rear catalytic converter as well since the failure of the front catalytic converter destroyed the rear one...or just scrap it.

Thanks for the advice guys, I appreciate it. Just getting back into this FZJ80 thing again...I had a 95' sold it on Craiglist in about 1 hour after listing it at 10pm one night a few years back...even with a known head gasket issue heading the way of the new owner soon...some guy from the middle easts buying them and exporting I believe, so he didn't care about the head gasket issue. Probably should not have given him my second set of wheels and tires, but did not think I would get back into this.

My son is turning 16 soon and this is the truck he helped me build for a friend of mine...we bought it back from him so my son could enjoy it as his first vehicle...heavy enough I won't worry too much, slow enough I won't think he's out racing...just wish I could make this thing stop better...any input on improving the brakes I would appreciate it...I might be willing to spend some cash to make this thing stop better.

IMG_7265.webp


Thanks!!

Rich
 
Another place to check is the NSS barrel connector. I had very similar issues until I cleaned it up and stuffed the cavity with silicon grease aka dielectric grease.

Easy 5 min fix that took about 9 months of research to find the answer.
 
Didn't get a lot of action on this thread, but hate to leave it without my final details of the repair...I bought two new catalytic converters...the front pipe section would not mount to the exhaust manifold...the spread on the pipes was too close to bolt up, so in frustration, I took the old converter and knocked the last bit of remaining catalyst our of it and bolted it back up and installed the new catalytic converter just aft of this section. Plenty of power, shifts right, vacuum line stays on, and most importantly no codes. This is the second time I have received a front catalytic converter for an FZJ80 that did not fit for the same reason. Would like it to be correct, but had to get it back together. Until it gives me an issue, and I doubt it will, it's going to stay as is. Project over, moving on to something else. Glad it running well.
 
High idle is normally an air leak on the intake side, split hose etc.

Usual fire caution applies here.

Get a spray such as WD40 and give little quirts around hoses, gaskets and do forth, a change in engine note will normally occur if the spray gets drawn in.

regards

Dave
 
Glad to have read this thread, as glad as one can be anyway.
I've not started a thread to ask for help about my own problem.
I found it hard to describe my situation. Had too many parts going in and out and little projects going on at once. Classic mistake.

I've the no power, limited rpms, and new exhaust rattle. Just thought it through yesterday and decided it could be a clogged cat. They look origanol or at least very old.
When I get home it's going to be time to check that out.
Thanks to all in involved in this thread and forum!
 
So I popped the cats off, the high idle seems to have gone away but still stuck at the 2000 rpms :(. I looked at the hose under the hood did not find a crack, tho I am sure I missed some hoses. And I will take another look at the in take. But I guess for now I will try cleaning the o2 sensors and go from there.
 
Thank you so much for making this post. Every symptom that you have is EXACTLY what I am experiencing. I appreciate it so much, that I have made an account just to make this comment lol.
 
Thank you so much for this thread!!
I’m moving from Idaho to Ohio towing a little camper and boy has it been a struggle. I was down to 30mph before I found this post. Popped the bolts out of the manifold to downpipe and WOW what a difference. From struggling to hit 30 to cruising at 60-65.

Thank so sooo much!
 
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