No longer real time help or ignition problem... broken timing chain/bent valve(s)...

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Well, good news! I threw the old chain on it (It checked out, no wear marks, and no stretch...) Set the valves, and checked the compression. 157-185, so I'm gonna run it! :D

Here's a few pics.... that curved thing around the sprocket used to be straight! :D

And a couple shots of where it broke off. It looks like the broken piece set where it broke for a while. The broken ends were worn smooth. Luckily when it went, the rubber side hit the sprocket, and I could not tell where it had caught on the crank sprocket once I popped it off.

The timing cover took a little hit down around the crank, but it should be fine with a little love.

The pan is off, but I ran out of light.... again.... :D
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Hey, no one thought those pics were interesting? :D

Update: I got it back together, fixed a coolant leak..... Tried to take it out on a trail run yesterday, and found a substantial oil leak from the top of the timing cover, where the head gasket is just done.... So! I have to pull the head, get a new gasket in there, and I should probably fix the bent valve.... :flipoff2: The idle sounds like a big V8, and the power loss is noticeable.... Oh well. I gave it a try. T minus 13 days till the McGrew Trail Ride..... We'll see if I'm hitchin' a ride or not.
 
some how i missed that last post of yers :doh:

i am just glad you didnt actually jack anything up.

well the recent news sucks though :somebeach: :mad:

once you yard the head off, be sure to inspect the coolant passages in the head. seems I have seen way too many heads with that damn corrosion in there.

how do you yard the head off? I leave the intake manifold on there and everything. just disconnect the knock sensor, oil sensor starts wires the reverse and 4x4 light and the O2. a few vacuum hoses for the fuel vapor, the fuel pressure hose. then disconnect the 3 plugs from the ECU. and rip er out! dont forget about those bitty coolant hoses to the throttle body. this way sure beats F'n with all the EFI plugs and that intake manifold.. just lift er off there.

at this point, i would suggest you relocate the fuel filter, to the fender well. what I did, on all my trucks. all my biddies and most all my customers. :flipoff2:
 
I cant get pics up, as of yet. Im on a mac. and frankly the only thing that is simalar with my pc is the letters on the keyboard.

I cant remember if I mounted the filter wit a bolt to the fender of zippy tied it to the intake manifold. On my 80, I know its mounted to the fender, but the fuel hose configuration is different. I will check tomorrow, and try to post some pics.

the last three head gaskets I installed ( on three different engines) I am really happy with. all from NAPA, and they now carry Fel-Pro.

On my runner, I got the Fel-Pro in there, and used to over heat a lot. I mean BAD. a few times it read 260+ on the mechanical AFTMKT gauge. It was my fault those times, I left a clamp on the hose :doh:

it was winter, and with no Tstat driving early in the morning DOWN a hill for six miles, it stays freezin balls the whole way. would have been fine the way down, but i forgot to take off the clamp on the way up after 4 miles. noticed some steam, and thought, uh-oh. this cant be good :lol:

Get a fel pro. good gaskets. just remember three sequential passes to final torque at 80 pounds, and then later a retorque. so far each retorque check has all registed at final torque, no re torquing.
 
Ted said the tensioner probably stuck, causing the chain to run loose and break the guide... the rest is history....

that certainly is possible. was it part of his kit, or the OE?

i am glad he is man enuff to warranty this.
 
and found a substantial oil leak from the top of the timing cover, where the head gasket is just done.... So! I have to pull the head, get a new gasket in there,



:shocked: speak of the devil, I just got my 20/22r done (2-3 weeks now, low driving) and guess what? It's pouring!

:mad: :bang:


I swear I cannot ever recall putting a motor together and having this. :crybaby: just when I don't need a project....


Can I just remove the TC, clean it, and run a bead of black RTV and re-install w/ gaskets?

You're scaring me here, but I think you've got ulterior motives. (fixing the bent valve)



You know, them "Black Gold" boys aint got to do all that to find oil. :confused: All they have to do is sink a well in my driveway.
 
My oil leak ended up being a broken timing cover... I needed to replace the hidden bolt that goes in under the distributor shaft from under the valve cover... and I got one that was too long... and I broke the cover... Yeah! (no fault of Wristy's!) So yeah...

If your's is only leaking from around the top, I'd try to goo is from the outside without pulling the cover, because without removing the pan or head, there's about no way you'll get it sealed up good again... As you slide the cover back in it'll scrape the sealant off...
 
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