Newby to the 80: excited and terrified! 😬

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If you are interested in how-to videos, watch this when you're ready to rebuild the knuckles (or other 80 things) - this guy is thorough and has great videos on 80 maintenance/repair.
 
Gurus, I have a question. What’s the general consensus on geometry correction; as far as rear end wiggle/dog walking is concerned. Also radius arm upgrade vs weld on radius arm body mount correction.

I’m caught between SRQ fab solutions weld on (both radius body mount and panhard kit), delta pan hard kit - caster plate, vs caster busing.

What setup would be ideal for a 2in (50mm) lift. I already have an adjustable panhard that came with the Ironman 4x4 kit.
 
Caster bushing are 100% no go don't wast you money ! Plates work well they just don't look as good.
Radius arm mount relocation kit's will be the best at bring the geometry back to stock. I like the @eimkeith kits eimkeith.com and they would be perfect for your 2" lift. I also like and run there Panhard correction kit.

A panhard mount relocation kit will fix the back wag the dog where a adjustable panhard just recenters the axle.
 
Gurus, I have a question. What’s the general consensus on geometry correction; as far as rear end wiggle/dog walking is concerned. Also radius arm upgrade vs weld on radius arm body mount correction.

I’m caught between SRQ fab solutions weld on (both radius body mount and panhard kit), delta pan hard kit - caster plate, vs caster busing.

What setup would be ideal for a 2in (50mm) lift. I already have an adjustable panhard that came with the Ironman 4x4 kit.
Agree that bushings are total waste of time and money. Plates work great and are substantially cheaper than new arms. I went this route, but may upgrade to the Delta radius arms for a more durable longterm solution.

I cannot recommend the DeltaVS rear panhard bracket enough. Caster correction + panhard bracket are the most important IMO. Then you can do a few smaller things like front sway bar drop brackets and rear sway bar extended end links. With a 2.5" lift, I drive pretty close to OEM.
 
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Caster bushing are 100% no go don't wast you money ! Plates work well they just don't look as good.
Radius arm mount relocation kit's will be the best at bring the geometry back to stock. I like the @eimkeith kits eimkeith.com and they would be perfect for your 2" lift. I also like and run there Panhard correction kit.

A panhard mount relocation kit will fix the back wag the dog where an adjustable panhard just recenters the axle.
I really like @eimkeith kit - that’s who I meant with (SRQ fab). But if I weld on the radius arm relocation, would it be overkill to also get an ungraded radius arm? Would that be over correction?
 
Agree that bushings are total waste of time and money. Plates work great and are substantially cheaper. I went this route, but may upgrade to the Delta radius arms for a more durable longterm solution.

I cannot recommend the DeltaVS rear panhard bracket enough. Caster correction + panhard bracket are the most important IMO. Then you can do a few smaller things like front sway bar drop brackets and rear sway bar extended end links. With a 2.5" lift, I drive pretty close to OEM.
Which would be more substantial - frame mount radius arm relation vs axle side?
 
Whats the problem with caster bushings? Mine came with them and they seem fine. šŸ¤·ā€ā™‚ļø
Mine resulted in too little caster adjustment. I also didn’t like giving up OEM rubber bushings. Lastly, there’s lots of info about longevity issues.
 
2" may not need caster correction. Get it measured at an alignment shop. I didn't need casters at 2" with dobinson.
Delta 3" Panhard bracket i installed and extended my brake lines
 
Gurus, I have a question. What’s the general consensus on geometry correction; as far as rear end wiggle/dog walking is concerned. Also radius arm upgrade vs weld on radius arm body mount correction.

I’m caught between SRQ fab solutions weld on (both radius body mount and panhard kit), delta pan hard kit - caster plate, vs caster busing.

What setup would be ideal for a 2in (50mm) lift. I already have an adjustable panhard that came with the Ironman 4x4 kit.
Delta Arms and Delta Panhard Adjustment Bracket. This made mine drive like a factory set-up
 
Whats the problem with caster bushings? Mine came with them and they seem fine. šŸ¤·ā€ā™‚ļø
Besides all the other comments mine spun inside the arms.
It’s well documented that they suck !
 
I really like @eimkeith kit - that’s who I meant with (SRQ fab). But if I weld on the radius arm relocation, would it be overkill to also get an ungraded radius arm? Would that be over correction?
Like others have said it best to see where your numbers are first.
For a low lift like yours RAR would be best.
There’s absolutely nothing wrong with plates they work great, I run them and I’m on 39s and run the hardest trails in the west.
That being said I welded them on before other options were available.
In other words I have been beating on them hard for 10 years.
 
Had a busy day finalizing some projects I started a couple weeks ago. The weather has been so cold it’s been hard hanging in the garage.

New water pump installed.
New radiator installed.
New idler pulleys installed.
New fan clutch installed.
New belts.
New valve cover gasket.
New vacuum hoses.
New heater hoses - I ended up reconnecting the rear heater, filled it with coolant - ran it and it sprung a leave right under the front passenger seat - close to the heater core entry. I was going to try and do a patch job because I really want to keep rear heat. Picked up some 5/8s at the auto part store and ran hoses straight from the valve all the way back to the core. I ran them by the factory locations to avoid any moving parts. Wasn’t too horrible - figures it would’ve been much easier while I had the valve cover off.. Oh well, gonna test for leaks tomorrow.

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Oh, and I jimmied up a power steering cooler - got one off e-trailer - didn’t realize I ordered the 24ā€ one.. the line bend weirdly but it should be just fine. Anything is better than my rusted out paperclip that I removed. I didn’t end up taking any photos of the rear heat overhaul - but will tomorrow. I think I’ll need to flush both the cores anyways.

Side note:
I had also picked up a pair of Suparee Helm 7s. I do love them! Not looking bad on the Goliath off-road front bumper.

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killin itšŸ‘Š
 
Gurus, I went down the stereo (subwoofer) upgrade worm hole after driving into NYC with the lady. It was almost a two hour drive without a working stereo. Fast forward to today - I have the upgraded head unit, front and rear door speakers upgraded - truck headliner speakers upgraded and all working great.

So I’ve been thinking it might be time to go down the 12v wormhole for future proofing before I do the subwoofer upgrade. I need direction where fuse blocks etc is concerned. Can someone share a write up I can use as a good base?
 
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