New week new problems. Spare tire lowering thingy stripped?

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so... the dremel tool does not fit in there. Looks like I will have to unbolt the whole carrier. Is there a diagram anywhere showing which bolts to undo? Also I will obv have to replace the lowering mechanism since mine is stripped, how hard is this? Thanks gents, what a stupid problem to have.
 
I don’t how how you would get an impact fun in there. A wrench at the most...
 
so... the dremel tool does not fit in there. Looks like I will have to unbolt the whole carrier. Is there a diagram anywhere showing which bolts to undo? Also I will obv have to replace the lowering mechanism since mine is stripped, how hard is this? Thanks gents, what a stupid problem to have.
Four 10 or 12 mm on each side at the frame. I don’t remember if there are any in the center where the hoist is.
 
Since you're replacing the lowering pulley, I would destructively cut the chain/pulley stop at the exposed underside.

If you want to drop the carrier, here's a video that should help you understand how it's attached. You'll want to remove the bracket attaching it to the frame rail, rather than the carrier from the bracket. Exhaust may need to come out. Note the bolt securing the guide tube to the pulled at the center of the carrier which may be hard to access with the spare in place.

 
yea that center bolt does not look like fun thanks for the video... Question remains, can I replace the lowering mechanism with a new one that is not stripped? Is the the part for the $106 a few posts above?
 
Yeah, that part should be common to the 200-series.
 
So, I was out doing a few things in a garage, and took another look. I had no trouble getting my Dremel tool to (seemingly) reach the chain, using the large 1-1/4" fiber reinforced cutoff wheel on a mandrel. It should cut the chain no problem, but obviously I'm not gonna test my theory. But, I guess if your tool is bigger in the nose area, it might be too tight. This could be solved with the shaft extension attachment.

dremel-rotary-tool-attachments-225-01-64_1000.jpg


If that still doesn't work, then I still think your best bet is to get a 4-1/2" angle grinder with a cutoff wheel and start hacking away at the little "stub" of the hanger bracket under the wheel. You just (just) need to slice off that ~1-1/2" disc at the very bottom, this will also cut the end off the chain.

I lowered my tire and took a look (I have a shop tool for doing this). There are 3 M8 (12mm head) bolts holding the winch to the crossmember. It's very easy to remove (with no tire there), I've had mine off to do the "Rock Warrier" mod. But with the tire in place? No way. Not reachable. As for the entire crossmember, the 4 M8 bolts at the ends are easy. But there is another M8 bolt at the back center that is unreachable. And even if you somehow got a flexy gearwrench on it and got it out, you'll never get the crossmember out with the tire on it. You have to lift it UP slightly to get it out of the end hangers, then slide it back to clear the hangers. The tire will hit the rear crossmember/bumper, and the winch holds the tire against 3 other bumpers/cushions. No way to lift the crossmember.

Fastest way is still with a torch, seriously I've done it and it's a quick "pssssshhh CLANK" (as the hanger bracket hits the floor). Take it to a welding shop, have them cut it off. Just point the torch towards the rear, away from all that scary charcoal canister stuff.

This is why I always hose my spare winch down with lithuim grease while changing the oil and rotating the tires.

An impact driver/gun would be useless for any of this repair. All of the bolts go in from above. No room.
 
ok final results. Believe it or not, somehow a small rock got wedged exactly in the key hole. After smashing the S#$# out of it with a metal dowel and grabbing out the pieces with a long grab tool everything works as normal. If I had no bad luck i'd have none at all lol. The odd of a rock exactly same shape as the kye hole getting stuck in there has to be one in a million. Thanks gents
 
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