- Thread starter
- #21
Do the IMS come in extended length in the rear? Does it matter? I have your extended sway bar links fwiw.
New shock choices
- Thread starter 4Beast
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Not the rears. I run my tapered wire rear coils (approximately a 3.5" lift) and no issues. The IMS rears support my set up flawlessly.
Jason
TT
looks great - any chance you will bring back the 1/2" BL - would rather not have bumper gaps/adjustments and other adjustments
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If I can get enough interest. I made 10 sets of the 1/2" and took 3 years to sell them.
- Thread starter
- #25
That's cool, I think my 864s are closer to 3", so that is great info!
Do the IMS help with the harsh top out when you lift a wheel. I’m currently running foam cell pro’s and the top out is horrible.
Personal preference based on trying a few other configurationsI really didn't want to start a new thread about a topic that seems like it has beenbut I can't quite get the insight I need from the existing threads, between outdated info, various suspension setups and AHC vs conventional.
As the title says I am trying to choose new shocks for my 100 LC. I have OME now and they have probably 70k on them and have been OK, but I have never really loved them as they are functional but harsh riding. I realize that I am not doing myself any favors with extra heavy springs in the rear and OME torsion bars, as well as about 100# per corner of E rated tires, but I do think I can do a bit better than what is on there now.
The truck is lifted about 2.5" and has a lot of extra weight in armor, bumpers roof rack and drawers etc, fully kitted for remote exploration it's close to 7,000#. I am in the northeast, so I actually do most of my offroad driving at lower speed and clamoring over rocks and trees (some washboard fire roads, but not like Big Bend or something) so I would guess fade resistance is a little less of a concern for me. I do want less body roll and comfort for on road overall.
I am looking at the Dobinsons, the Bilstein 5160 remote reservoir etc. I'd like to stay in that $300 a corner range, and don't really think that I want ones that need to be rebuilt regularly. I know opinions are rampant and there is a lot of confirmation bias to whatever people have, but are there really better ones than others for my use case? TIA
Front shock - Toyota OEM
Front Torsion - Toyota OEM
Rear Shock + Torsion - Dobinsons rated for additonal weight
My vehicle weight - 7k lbs front and rear armor + winch
Ride height up front - right around 20"
Ride height in the back - right around 22"
Perry parts bump stops up front
Trail tailor extended links front and rear ( made a noticeable difference at highway speeds ) My vehicle used to feel more boat like and now it snaps back to center nicely when the body rolls.
All around great setup with no complaints. Don't overthink this and give into overpriced shocks, it's not rocket science. Get good coils for your weight and send it. Replace all rubber bits for shock mounts especially up front.
Ride on road : B-
Ride off road : A-
Highway speeds fully loaded : B+
educate me on the perry bump stops!
checked out their web site. very interesting use of additive mfg.
How long have you had 'em, any negatives?
He's got a great product and the testing is hard to argue with. On top of that , price point is a big factor . He hits that sweet spot of an easy "mod" that doesn't really cost alot so it's worth trying . I've only had them in for 1k miles and no negatives other than my screw ups during the rear install.
Front - The originals were secured in placed pretty good, you'll need a big pair of channel locks or something like that and try not to round it off. Taking the tire off would ultimately make it a lot easier. I didn't take any comparison pics but then Perry stops are easily 2-3x bigger . You'll need to lift the vehicle almost all the way to get your ratchet in there to tighten the bolt. Removing the tire is suggested
Rear - Well that was a sad story seen here. The perry stops looked really nice but instead I decided to snap 3 of the 4 bolts heads off of my original setups. I would say this was 80% user error. The bolts are definitely corroded from s*** in the frame but I finally realized to stop being an idiot, removed the tire, soaked in PB and took my sweet time with the last bolt and got it out.
Ride improvement - Meh, hard to say just yet. I daily drive an old s***ty corolla that rides like a dumpster on wheels so the cruiser always seems to feel like a Cadillac in comparison when I get in it. I'm headed to the desert to wheel for a few days soon and will see how they feel in the scenario.
Again it's hard to argue with his testing. Normal size tire folks won't see much benefits but if you are lifted and shoving giant tires in there and you actually need to have good stops this is the way to do it for sure. I have stock tire size and suspension
Eyedaho
SILVER Star
I'm in for a set if you do get enough interest to make another batch. I have your diff drop, extended sway bar links f/r, and tow points, and I have been very happy with your quality of design/manufacturing and professionalism.
Eyedaho
SILVER Star
Did you happen to get any information from Perry regarding what they consider long travel for our rigs?
Nah no solid info but I think the LT rear bump was a bit too long for my tire size but I'm only basing that on a visual opinion. If anything it may limit your movement in the rear a bit because they are so long and will stop your axle a few inches sooner than OEM.... Maybe if you are running big boy tires and want them to stop before contacting the fender but I suspect most rigs would be happy with the normal size.
2.5 - 3"lift here, 33+/-" tires, though dog shocks, otherwise stock.
So, what i read between the lines is: unless you go big, why bother. I run slow "overisting" style wheeling. Always take the easy way if the penalty is small.
BTW: I used to design suspensions for ultra quiet robo undersea vehicles. I have not looked at Perry's testing yet, might never look. a passing curiosity.....
Yeah I'd agree with that. I suppose a proper test would be if someone could get there hands on both sets and flex each rear wheel to the limits.
Apparently I did take a photo of the rears, these are the LT's that Mr Perry Parts was nice enough to let me return after I destroyed my bolts . I'm not saying these wouldn't work but I suspect they would limit travel a bit compared to the normal versions. I was sort of thinking the longer version couldn't hurt because I don't necessarily want my rig to flex to the max, I wouldn't mind a little buffer to keep me sane.
Eyedaho
SILVER Star
Thank you!
- Thread starter
- #36
Honestly I have never been happier to have my friend's convection bolt heater when removing the rear bumpstops. It was so easy we thought we screwed something up! I put the Energy ones in the rear and the Wheelers in the front, no problems that I know of.
wowza, never heard of that contraption. steep $ for the amateur, but pros....
Eyedaho
SILVER Star
You can get one for under $200. It's actually inductive, which might help your search.
I guess expensive for this amateur.
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1/2" pucks are cut. Will get them cleaned up next week and off to the plater.
Jason
Jason