NEW HD 80 Series Steering, Panhard and Frame Crossmember Kit

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PIP

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Many have experienced their 80 frame's cracking around the power steering box and Panhard bar mount. This is mostly limited to 80 series with 35" and larger tires. The frame cracks can be welded and patched. Delta has a nice kit out to reinforce the area that cracks.

The frame cracking issue is a complex one. The frame is not supposed to be perfectly rigid, it is designed to flex to an extent. The extent to which the frame is flexing from steering box and panhard forces with 35" and larger tires is clearly more than design limits, leading to cracks. Forces from the steering box twist the bottom of the frame rail left or right while the panhard mount experiences opposite forces.

The 32MM tubular crossmember connects low on the panhard mount to the opposite frame rail. It acts to distribute panhard forces, but it isn't much of a crossmember. It flexes quite a lot.
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The frame cracks generally appear in the frame below the steering box and in the panhard mount where it meets the frame. They spread from here if unnoticed.

The idea was a product to addresses frame cracking for good and potentially improve the handling of your lifted 80 series. Something that could be used on any 80, but is definitely worth the effort to install it if you have the need.

Hope all that makes sense. This is the working prototype we came up with-

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We're using two of the RHD steering box bolt holes (with solid spacers inside) and a 7/8" bolt through the remnant of the old tubular brace. There's a spherical misalignment washer under the 7/8" nut so we can fully torque it down without distortion.
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This plate is sandwiched under the steering box. The brace extends down as far as it can with 1/2" clearance at full suspension compression.
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Here you can see the remnant of the old tubular crossmember cut off and how the new brace attaches as low as possible- Directly to the 16mm panhard bolt tying it into the frame and the steering box.
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I'm planning to sell these as a weld together kit. Every frame is slightly different so the kit is designed with some give and take in the tab and slot construction. It's made from 3/8" laser cut A36. The weld joints are designed for minimal distortion so you can tack it up, pull it out and weld it pretty hot and it will still fit when you put it back in. It completely unbolts and removes completely if that was ever needed, say for oil pan access.

Thoughts?
 
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“Thoughts?”

Toyota completely eliminated this issue in 1998 when they released the 70-series with a coil sprung front end.

They separated the panhard mount and steering box mount. Meaning they don’t share the same location in the 70-series. Steering box is farther forward with the pitman arm throwing backwards.

I have looked at doing this to an 80-series. Unfortunately the radiator is in the way so I decided not to pursue it more.

Cheers
 
This replaces the tube support thats what it looks like? Would this interfere with ls engine swapped rigs? Getting ready to ls swap a lx450 its on 35s ive been looking at another manufacturer brace kit but it has a lot of welding that needs to be done to attach it to the frame witch i don't really like..
 
“Thoughts?”

Toyota completely eliminated this issue in 1998 when they released the 70-series with a coil sprung front end.

They separated the panhard mount and steering box mount. Meaning they don’t share the same location in the 70-series. Steering box is farther forward with the pitman arm throwing backwards.

I have looked at doing this to an 80-series. Unfortunately the radiator is in the way so I decided not to pursue it more.

Cheers

That makes perfect sense- And seems most other automakers have the steering box and panhard mount attached separately to the frame.
 
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This replaces the tube support thats what it looks like? Would this interfere with ls engine swapped rigs? Getting ready to ls swap a lx450 its on 35s ive been looking at another manufacturer brace kit but it has a lot of welding that needs to be done to attach it to the frame witch i don't really like..

Can you post or send me a link to the one you were looking at? I'm curious how theirs works.

This does replace the tube support. Cutting the tube support out really becomes necessary for two reasons- The remnant of the tube on the passenger side is a fantastic place to attach the new crossmember and if you made a new crossmember like mine that installed with the tube in place, you could not remove the crossmember without cutting the tube out anyway.

I couldn't come up with any reasonable way to weld in a new crossmember that would be an improvement over how Toyota did it. I've seen pictures of some that are welded in with the tube cut out and I was concerned that whoever designed them really misunderstood the job original tube actually does- What kind of loads it sees and why that tube is welded in the way it is.

The one shown above clears a Cummins oil pan. I plan on making a version that tucks up a bit tighter for the 1FZ guys. I'd say you'd have your choice of 1FZ pan clearance or Cummins version. The 1FZ version is likely to be 2" higher than the Cummins version. I'm sure we could share some measurements to figure out which would work best.
 
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Sorry It's the Ramped custom one. @Delta VS has one too. I can definitely share some measurements once I get going on it wrapping up wiring my new shop before I start on it.
 
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Can you post some pictures of the entire unit installed from the front, or underneath and then from either side, but with more view of the truck superstructure and other associated component assemblies?

Took it out to write instructions for the first one sold. I'll put it back in and take more pictures shortly!
 
Not the easiest thing to get pictures of. It's pretty buried in there.

This cruiser is also on stock springs with a 6.7 Cummins sitting in it, so it's sitting a bit low until the lift springs go in.

Ignore the cutoff weld on the underside of the old tubular brace. That's unrelated to these parts.
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From the backside you can see clearly how the steering box is being supported.
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A shot from above without the engine would be best, but this cruiser is going together a bit rough and ready to test some new products.

When I do the 1FZ version of this kit in June I can take lots of pics from above.
 
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Did you need this to get the Cummins fitted?

The tubular crossmember must be lowered to clear the Cummins pan. I've cut and welded them back in lower for a long time, but had customers pressuring me to do something better, that unbolts so they could access the pan.

I felt like the likelihood of needing to pull a Cummins pan didn't necessitate designing and building such a complicated part, and even if you do have to pull a pan it's not a difficult job to cut that tube out then weld it back in. But then I started getting more and more feedback that frames are cracking, so I put my attention to the matter.
 
That makes perfect sense- And seems most other automakers have the steering box and panhard mount attached separately to the frame.

💯 and I certainly commend you for coming up with a solution to a problem for a small market and then putting that to a production product. 🙌

That’s the market here though right? 80-series, mostly targeting Cummins swaps?

Cheers
 
💯 and I certainly commend you for coming up with a solution to a problem for a small market and then putting that to a production product. 🙌

That’s the market here though right? 80-series, mostly targeting Cummins swaps?

Cheers

Yes. The pictured kit is likely to be purchased by everyone who buys my Cummins swap parts.

Some small changes will tailor it to 1FZ or Toyota diesel guys and it may even fit RHD as well.

I try to make good parts that solve real problems. Hopefully there's a market beyond the Cummins guys, but if not that's fine too.
 
I like the fact it can be fitted before cracks develop thereby preventing them and doesn’t require welding to the chassis. I would be interested if it could fit a RHD diesel.
 
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