New FJ80 Owner No crank engine wont start need help/tips

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Joined
Mar 31, 2022
Threads
1
Messages
6
Location
MIssouri
So I have had my land cruiser and honestly I love this car, even more whenever it would run. The PO had installed a stereo in it very poorly. after a while it turned over but wouldn't start and I found out the Fuel pump wasn't kicking on so I replaced it and still the same problem, after some digging I found that the voltage through the firewall to the fuel pump was too low, I found a solution(bypassed straight to battery at firewall) but it still wouldn't start. I hate that I just let it sit for so long without working on it(about 3 years in a field) but I getting back into it, it still has power when I hooked it up the battery but Im a bit lost on where to take it from here or even how to diagnose it, Ive replaced the ignition switch and nothing changed, Im guess im just a bit lost on where to start and thought this would be a good place so any help would be greatly appreciated!
 
Here she is in all her beauty

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Are you confident that you have a good, charged battery? If so, does the check engine light come on when the key is in the ignition and turned on, but not in the starting position? Check or replace your fusible links as well. This is a three wire pigtail that is attached to the battery.
 
Im very confident the battery is good, check engine wasn't on when i just checked but i do recall it being on when i moved(towed) it a week or so ago. I thought it was the fusible link except for the fact that I dont think it has one the PO had some of his own wiring in there. also snapped the positive battery terminal bolt in half trying to tighten it about an hour ago so ill have to pick new ones up tomorrow

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I know nothing about how electricity works but even I can see that's not right.

The OP needs to schedule an appointment with @jonheld ;)
 
From your first photo, it looks like one of your ground wires might be damaged right at the terminal.

Also, my knowledge is more specific to OBD II trucks, but I think the lack of CEL with the key in that position indicates a problem. Usually the recommendation is to start with fusible links, then look at some of the relays and fuses that control the EFI and computer, before considering the computer itself as a culprit. If wiring modifications were done though, that is where I would start.
 
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So I have had my land cruiser and honestly I love this car, even more whenever it would run. The PO had installed a stereo in it very poorly. after a while it turned over but wouldn't start and I found out the Fuel pump wasn't kicking on so I replaced it and still the same problem, after some digging I found that the voltage through the firewall to the fuel pump was too low, I found a solution(bypassed straight to battery at firewall) but it still wouldn't start. I hate that I just let it sit for so long without working on it(about 3 years in a field) but I getting back into it, it still has power when I hooked it up the battery but Im a bit lost on where to take it from here or even how to diagnose it, Ive replaced the ignition switch and nothing changed, Im guess im just a bit lost on where to start and thought this would be a good place so any help would be greatly appreciated!
This is a good start for diagnosing the EFI.
However, you mentioned that the truck does not crank in the title of this thread. That infers that the starter is not cranking the motor. Is that the case??

 
hey im in the same boat, bought a fj80 that had sat for 10 years and the wiring harness got eaten by rats, the owner tried to rewire and idk if he did it right but its still no crank no start, is there any other common problems besides fusible link ( i already replaced that) and i tried to test the voltage from the solanoid to the starter and its getting proper voltage. any help?
 
hey im in the same boat, bought a fj80 that had sat for 10 years and the wiring harness got eaten by rats, the owner tried to rewire and idk if he did it right but its still no crank no start, is there any other common problems besides fusible link ( i already replaced that) and i tried to test the voltage from the solanoid to the starter and its getting proper voltage. any help?
a 91
 
I hate that I just let it sit for so long without working on it(about 3 years in a field) but I getting back into it, it still has power when I hooked it up the battery
So you just "hooked up the battery" after sitting for 3 years???
Was this a new battery or the one that was sitting in the truck for 3 years in a field???
Did you check the voltage across the battery terminals with a meter to check the state of charge???
 
So you just "hooked up the battery" after sitting for 3 years???
Was this a new battery or the one that was sitting in the truck for 3 years in a field???
Did you check the voltage across the battery terminals with a meter to check the state of charge???
It is a newer battery, one I had bought last year for helping my dad fix his jeep. Known and tested working battery. It might still be the issues but I have a lot of doubt that it's a bad battery. Still waiting on my fusible link to show up and trying to make more sense of the wiring (still new to electrical side of working on cars) and where exactly it's been spliced and to what
 
I am going through all this now as well with a 1994, I ordered the fuseable links, but ran a multi meter and the old were good. I have come to the conclusion (I have been working on weird electric problems and starter problems, that for 3 years)... I had the car on jack stands messing with the siliniod wires. But I am confident its not them .... The problem is the ignition! I have not done it yet, but my new hypothesis is , on the steering column there is a short, in the ignition wiring or the terminal where all those wires interact. For 3 years I have been getting starter relays and chasing shorts, I finally got a negative terminal disconnect. A short there can act much the same as fusible links weirdness.
 
I am going through all this now as well with a 1994, I ordered the fuseable links, but ran a multi meter and the old were good. I have come to the conclusion (I have been working on weird electric problems and starter problems, that for 3 years)... I had the car on jack stands messing with the siliniod wires. But I am confident its not them .... The problem is the ignition! I have not done it yet, but my new hypothesis is , on the steering column there is a short, in the ignition wiring or the terminal where all those wires interact. For 3 years I have been getting starter relays and chasing shorts, I finally got a negative terminal disconnect. A short there can act much the same as fusible links weirdness
try bypassing the alarm system i was struggling with electrical problems for a couple weeks straight, then bypasses the alarm system and jumped it and the car started for the first time in 12 years
 
try bypassing the alarm system i was struggling with electrical problems for a couple weeks straight, then bypasses the alarm system and jumped it and the car started for the first time in 12 years
I will try that, the other thing i was thinking about is the the PO installed, inverter and subwoofer in to the vehicle. I was told unless i drove the car often the subwoofer had a parasitic drain on the battery, and it would go dead. After I had to buy a new battery, I removed the panel which allowed me view the wiring, which I could not follow it. I think there was an attempt fix the battery drain by running relay off the cigarette lighter But even that would not explain all the modifications, anyways, the whole thing was such a mess I just disconnected the two, 4 gauge wires that were attached to the battery. That was when the electrical problem started. I was surprised that there was a 4 gauge wire to the negative terminal, But as i think about it maybe that was there cause the ground was intermittent, or maybe a alarm bypass was built into the situation. Maybe ill hook back up the negative 4 gauge and see if that works. The future burns bright 2 possible new cures... . Thank you for your help
 
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