New diesel member with tailgate wiring problem (1 Viewer)

Joined
Dec 28, 2020
Messages
3
Location
Europe
Howzit dear forum members!

After years of just lurking and not contributing anything to this awesome forum I thought it's about time to sign up and be an active member!
Currently proud owner of a (facelifted) '02 HDJ 100 with a H151F Manual in 1B1 silver. Over the years my family owned couple of LCs (mostly 1HZ powered) which I had the pleasure to drive and gain my fair bit of experience with. Those included basically the whole 70Series range ( LJ/HZJ 70, 73, 75, 78 and 79) and a few 105s. Hands down the 105 is the most perfect touring rig I ever drove (apart from a G Professional I had the privilege to take on a few trips but that's another story) but oh boy it is lacking power! Everything stock with skinnies and unloaded it is pretty much driveable (but you will still think twice about taking it on the autobahn) and as soon as you load it or go for bigger tyres you are done! Of course you could strap a turbo on but then you will be in constant fear of melting your engine or busting your R151F tranny or swap a 1HD-T/FT including the drivetrain but that aint gonna be cheap and will be a hassle to register and get your TÜV. So as we got plenty of 100s for sale in europe with nearly double the power and half the price that 105s go for that is the most logical route to go if you want a 100 Body Cruiser in europe.
Took me some time to find the right one and pulled the trigger on mine because of the low kms (180k km) and being a Manual. Most 100s in Europe will be 4 speed (don't want the 4speed due to the converter problem) autos with heaps of kms (which isn't the problem) and having been (ab)used as towing rigs. Passed a few rust free specimens only because they were 4 speeds (which in hindsight was stupid given the amount of rust mine has/had and normally rust is my number 1 criteria on cars....but hey now it's too late😂)

1st priority was getting rid of the rust, so I had it sandblasted, primed with 2k-epoxy and sprayed it with multiple layers of Brantho Korrux 3in1 (don't know if you guys get that stuff in the US) and drenched the frame and underbody with cable grease (most common rust prevention here in the Alps)
2nd priority was the AHC: of course it was shot, so i went for OME bars with 864 springs in the back and KONI Heavy Track Raid shocks all around (planned this mod anyways) with 50mm lift and diff drop kit
3rd priority: Having experinced the effect of proper skid plates (or better the lacking of skid plates multiple times in Africa) I got the engine and gearbox protected with the N4 skidplate set from France.
4rd priority: I'm in the process of planning/building a camper conversion in the back and register the car as a camper. Tax and insurance for a passenger car registered 100 Series is insanely expensive in Germany and by getting it registered as a camper you will save around 50% on rego and insurance -> more money left for mods and maintenance!

so that's it currently for mods, no plans for bumpers or so as I love the stock look of the 100s!


Now on to my first problem:
My upper rear hatch was rusted out (how unexpected😆) so I swapped it for a rust free 2nd hand one. easy install and everything lines up nicely. only issue was the wiring loom: took me some time to swap my old (original) loom into the "new" hatch and even longer to notice there is a connector in the LH side upper portion of the hatch which would have made everything way easier....but now my electrics are acting up!
my third brake light and number plate light only work if the hatch isn't fully closed/open, the fob only works when unlocking the car, the door ajar light is on if the hatch is closed and goes of when it is open and last but not least the hatch lock does always the opposite as the other locks on the car: when unlocking the front doors with the key, the rear hatch locks...and when unlocking the rear the 4 other doors lock themselves!
For me it seems like I connected something "the other way around" but can't think of which connector this could be as the all only go together one way🤨
swapped the original liftgate hatch (6935060120) into the new hatch as I suspected it to be the problem but didn't fix it.
One thing I can think of is that mine is a late 2002 cruiser with facelift and without the extra child lock at the inside of the rear hatch, and the swapped hatch is a pre 2002 which has the extra child lock inside.

I was hoping some of you guys ran into a similar problem as the rusty upper rear hatch is a common thing on the 100 and knows a fix for this! Driving without 3rd brakelight and licenceplate light is not that funny nor safe in the dark! my temporarily fix is to drive with a not fully closed hatch so all the light work but when its -10°C it's far from ideal!

Hope you can help me!

cheers,

Nick


got some pics as we all love pics!

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