Beachcruiser, I just installed a Kaymar rear bar on my 100 and have found that the included harness also doesn't fit. From what I've learned from 100 owners in Australia, they get a 6-pin connected at the back of the fuel tank that is capped off (unused). I believe the trailers there have separate turning signals and brake lights while the ones here have the brake light and turning signal integrated into the same line (no amber turning signal on US trailers). We also use the 7-pin RV socket as the standard here while they use a 6-pin socket.
I also have the turning signal, brake, parking lamps in my Kaymar rear bar. It seems the easiest way is to buy a 2-3 converter, which converts USA left turn signal+ brake and right turn signal+brake to a left turn signal, right turn signal, and brake (3 signals instead of 2). The parking light isn't affected, so you run that straight through. I should be getting my converter early next week, will connect it next weekend. The other options are to get the turning signals just before they enter the trailer relay, located in the left quarter panel, blue plugs. They are way down there, so it'll be difficult to splice into those wires. Ditto w/ splicing directly into the tail lamps (you'd have to do both sides to get left/right turn signals). The grommet where the wires exit is just way too inaccessible. So my conclusion was the converter box was the lesser of the evils. I certainly didn't want to tap off the harness externally after it exists the grommet (this is what the installer did to Siglo's rear bar)...just too much weather down there by the wheels. I had to go further and purchase a new trailer socket and bracket since there's minimal space w/ the kaymar rear bar. It's really designed for the Aussie socket, in which you drill a small hole at the bottom of the bar. The US sockets are way too big...you'd have to drill a 2" hole!
BTW, I also installed a Sahara bar on my LX recently...have both front and rear bars painted to match the body. The LX bars don't have any rubber stripping between the bar and body. The body has a metal lip that tucks under the bar. I used a floor jack w/ 2x4 to hold the bar in the right position, then hit the six 18mm bolts w/ an impact w/ swivel socket by lowering it into where the winch control box would go. Otherwise, it would have been impossible to get the bar lined up w/ the body myself w/o a helping hand.
By the way although I went to ARB's warehouse I called and purchased through Slee Offroad.
Time for the sawzall....
