Need any help for seat heater switch (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter moab
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
I sent an email to the seller to make sure he is OK with me doing that. I suspect he will be. It would be best to know for sure that it works before others spend the $25 for a switch that may or may not work.
My intention is to share the info with anyone who wants to buy one if it works.
Dave
My intention is to share the info with anyone who wants to buy one if it works.
Dave
Seller said he is OK with it so here goes. His name is Hua Dong and can be contacted at lucy2467 at 163 dot com. I still don't know if this switch will even plug into the factory harness yet.
Does anyone know how to remove the center/shifter console to replace the switch?
Dave
Does anyone know how to remove the center/shifter console to replace the switch?
Dave
Hopefully this helps. Some of these steps may not need to be done:
7. REMOVE SHIFT LEVER KNOB SUB-ASSEMBLY
http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff65/wilsonce01/cars/B180008.png
(a) Twist the shift lever knob in the direction indicated by the arrow and remove it.
8. REMOVE LOWER CENTER INSTRUMENT CLUSTER FINISH PANEL SUB-ASSEMBLY
http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff65/wilsonce01/cars/B180006.png
(a) Detach the 7 claws.
(b) Disconnect the connectors and remove the panel.
9. REMOVE REAR UPPER CONSOLE PANEL SUB-ASSEMBLY
http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff65/wilsonce01/cars/B180009.png
(a) Detach the 9 claws and remove the panel.
10. REMOVE CONSOLE CUP HOLDER BOX SUB-ASSEMBLY
http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff65/wilsonce01/cars/B180010.png
(a) Detach the 4 claws and remove the box.
11. REMOVE UPPER CONSOLE PANEL SUB-ASSEMBLY
http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff65/wilsonce01/cars/B180011.png
(a) Detach the 14 claws.
(b) Disconnect the connectors and remove the console panel.
Edit: Wouldn't surprise me if you did all the above steps only to find that the heater and crawl control trim piece simply pops out. Personally, I would go through the above just to make sure that there are no screws or difficult (breakable) retaining clips holding the panel in place. Please let us know what you find for future reference!
7. REMOVE SHIFT LEVER KNOB SUB-ASSEMBLY
http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff65/wilsonce01/cars/B180008.png
(a) Twist the shift lever knob in the direction indicated by the arrow and remove it.
8. REMOVE LOWER CENTER INSTRUMENT CLUSTER FINISH PANEL SUB-ASSEMBLY
http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff65/wilsonce01/cars/B180006.png
(a) Detach the 7 claws.
(b) Disconnect the connectors and remove the panel.
9. REMOVE REAR UPPER CONSOLE PANEL SUB-ASSEMBLY
http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff65/wilsonce01/cars/B180009.png
(a) Detach the 9 claws and remove the panel.
10. REMOVE CONSOLE CUP HOLDER BOX SUB-ASSEMBLY
http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff65/wilsonce01/cars/B180010.png
(a) Detach the 4 claws and remove the box.
11. REMOVE UPPER CONSOLE PANEL SUB-ASSEMBLY
http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff65/wilsonce01/cars/B180011.png
(a) Detach the 14 claws.
(b) Disconnect the connectors and remove the console panel.
Edit: Wouldn't surprise me if you did all the above steps only to find that the heater and crawl control trim piece simply pops out. Personally, I would go through the above just to make sure that there are no screws or difficult (breakable) retaining clips holding the panel in place. Please let us know what you find for future reference!
Last edited:
Thanks so much for the instructions sptsdn. I got to step 2 this weekend, removing the lower center instrument cluster, which proved difficult. I was certain I was going to break it while removing it so I stopped for a few minutes and thought about your other comment regarding the possibility of the heater panel and crawl panel perhaps just popping out. What the heck, just take the plastic pry tool to the crawl panel and...it just popped out with surprisingly almost no effort. And so I then popped out the heater panel. No screws anywhere. And the switch looked identical so I just plugged it in and reinstalled the panels and good to go.
I am attempting to attach pics, not sure if I will be successful or not.
Dave
2008 LC200
I am attempting to attach pics, not sure if I will be successful or not.
Dave
2008 LC200
2 more pictures...
That is crazy easy. Shame to have to replace switch for just the knob but it works. Did you test the crawl mode too? I lost the same knob.
I didn't test the crawl mode, but I didn't unplug anything from that panel so I should be OK. But I will check it just to be sure.
As for the switch, my intention all along was to just replace the knobs, not the switch. When I ordered the switch the seller told me it was not intended to be a direct replacement but I figured it didn't matter since all I wanted was the knobs anyway. Well the knobs proved to be quite securely held in place so that is why I thought what the heck, the switch looks very similar. And was in fact identical best I could tell. Perhaps the inner electrical is different so I kept the old switch in case I need to do some donor surgery with it. When I tested it everything seems to work OK.
Dave
As for the switch, my intention all along was to just replace the knobs, not the switch. When I ordered the switch the seller told me it was not intended to be a direct replacement but I figured it didn't matter since all I wanted was the knobs anyway. Well the knobs proved to be quite securely held in place so that is why I thought what the heck, the switch looks very similar. And was in fact identical best I could tell. Perhaps the inner electrical is different so I kept the old switch in case I need to do some donor surgery with it. When I tested it everything seems to work OK.
Dave
It looks identical. I would guess he works for the supplier for Toyota?
I received my switch today - FYI there's a difference between the JDM version and these switches when it comes to illumination.
I will be ordering the JDM one and ill update you guys, ill also put this one up for sale once i get the org in the mail, if interested pm me.
I will be ordering the JDM one and ill update you guys, ill also put this one up for sale once i get the org in the mail, if interested pm me.
Sinister
SILVER Star
Deleted.
Last edited:
Sinister
SILVER Star
Looks the same.
Hi Dsallean, it looks like I need to make the same purchase as you. How is your switch working after a year?
MScruiser
obsessive-compulsive oppositional-defiant wise-ass
This.
I am interested what else he can get his hands on. Does DENSO make these components?
I am interested what else he can get his hands on. Does DENSO make these components?
well since my post I ordered both a genuine switch from Japan and the one mentioned here (made in china), the knobs are identical and are easy to replace. You just need to pull hard on the knob and it'll come out. As for the switch itself, the internals are a little different with the genuine switch producing much better backlight if you care, i opened both up its fairly easy if you have the right tools
Sorry, been away from the forum for a while. If anyone is still concerned my switch continues to operate just as the original. Used the seat heater nearly every day in the last few weeks.
TNFJ80
Enthusiast
I have the same problem and will be ordering one of these from ebay. It looks like there are a few different suppliers selling these for $25-$30. Which one would you buy? Is there a difference?
Happened to me too but I found the knob and superglued it back on. Good to know there's an alternative solution.
Not advertising here, but we need one too, can someone please verify this is correct, guess its not that big of a gamble, just wondering. Thanks.
Seat heater switch * 1 pcs, fit Toyota Landcruiser,used for replace the damaged
Seat heater switch * 1 pcs, fit Toyota Landcruiser,used for replace the damaged
Got mine from wukexue2010 on eBay and installed as above and all is good.
