NC LX becomes NC LC (1 Viewer)

[NC LX]

A few day before a trip seems like the perfect time to tackle my A pillar. Drivers door has never shut right so yesterday I dove into it. Wasn’t as bad as I thought it would be. It was slow process.


I wish I could of got my gaps tighter but I’ll accept that I got them even.

Used a section of the A pillar from the other body.

Metal was cleaned and Etching primer was used. A weld through primer was used in between the panels and a reapplication of seem sealer was used where it had been previously

 

[NC LX]

Started this about 3 weeks ago but forgot to hit post. Ill update as I remember more.

Took Jack on OTMT with Upstate. Couldn't be happier with how it did considering I basically took it untested drove it through a day of some hard miles doing gravel roads and forestry switch backs.


I towed it to Franklin, NC and drove from there. When I got back to my truck and trailer Sunday I had logged a little over 250 miles. I think I could of driven it back to Huntsville. The more miles I drive it, it feels likes it wants to go a little faster and drives a little smoother. I’m not sure how much it was driven before I bought it, but my theory is that after all these years, the transmission moving, engine cycling, and new gears getting broken in, things are moving easier.

Now for the bad. Things I noticed and happened over the weekend.

I lost a front shock.
Leaving Black Balsm Saturday, I had a shock complete fall off. Thankfully @IcutYourCruiser was behind me and radioed that there was a entire shock laying in the trail. Stopping to check it out, it had fallen off from mine. We picked it up and bolted it back in at the trail head. After tightening up the other side it was Obvious I had forgot to tighten them and never torqued them down.

Random Check engine light and engine stalling when slowing down from cruising speed. Slowing down rapidly, some times the engine would die and a check engine light would come on briefly. It always instantly cranked back up so it didn’t cause an issue. A noticeable exhaust leak was there before I left but I chose not to address it till I got back.

Looking at the gasket, I may have been leaking in the intake and exhaust ports. Explains the random stall when I was slowing down. Changed the gasket for the thicker Remiflex and it’s solved my stalling issue.

 

[NC LX]

After the successful run in North Carolina, I decided it was time to put the dash together. Dash is out of the 83 and is almost perfect. Has one small crack on the corner of the cluster where they all crack. I’m going to have the crack repaired and dye the dash SEM color “Monterey”. A close match to the brown 80 interiors.

99% of my electrical has been sorted. Still need to dial in the fuel gauge. It reads but not perfect.

• Also noticed the alternator isn’t getting above 13. Stays around 11.9 at idle. And then upon accelerating it might hit 13. But seems to wanna stay around 12.8 max. Gonna check with a local alternator shop about getting some more out of it. Jack always cranks and Battery hasn’t drained yet so the alternator is working, I’d just like to see around 13-14v at idle.
• New temp and Oil pressure sensor from Toyota.
• New reverse switch with much brighter reverse LEDs.
  
• LEDs in the in the gauges. This completely transformed night driving, also like to think it minimizes the pull on the alternator.
• 3D printed switch mounts for the locker switches from CruiserHead. Nice product. Fit and finish was spot on.

 

[NC LX]

Wrapped up a little bit of metal work yesterday. Patched the passenger side floor. Used a section from the 86 floor pan so the stamping matches.

Picture heavy because I know my self and when this wraps up I’ll get bored I don’t have anything to work on and the potential buyer will wanna see the floors.

Butt welded the patches in. It took a little longer to cut the patch perfect but now my OCD won't think about the potential for rust in between the panels if I had done a plug weld patch. Checked to make sure the welds were complete all the way around with a bright light on the opposite side.

Took the grinder and knocked down the welds and wire wheeled the floor.

80 mil sound deadening.

 

[NC LX]

Few more progress pics from the past few days. Swiss cheese removal under the console and drivers seat. More patch panels from the good of the 86.

Looks decent underneath. Finished it up with some seem sealer in the appropriate places. More 80 mil sound deadening will be covering it all up to never been seen again. For an ol camping truck it’s pretty good.

 

[NC LX]

Productive week taking advantage of 30 min here and and there. Those chunks of time added up as progress.

Started working on my driver side. Welded what will be the driver side slider in place of the oId rockers.

Used 2”x4”. To get it to sit flush in place. I notched the bracing on the b pillar cutting out what was In the way and rewelded it back. This is the rocker from the 86. The condition is Pretty amazing considering how crusty the roof was.

The rest of the week was spent rebuilding the quarter panel. Some time last year, I had cut the rusty pinch welded wheel well out so I started there removing all the sections butchered with a sawzall. Drilled out what feels like hundreds of spot welds and finally got to good metal. More of the 86 is making it way back and this helped with the inner fender.

My wheels are turning. There’s a good panel to go on but I’m playing around with some ideas. Decided to wait and stare at it a few days to see what I come up with.

 

[SFROMAN]

Are you trying to recreate that while
Piece that is missing out of the rear quarter panel?

 

[NC LX]

Are you trying to recreate that while
Piece that is missing out of the rear quarter panel?

Are you talking about the section I cut out to give to you last year? I'm going to join below the window so it won't matter. When's the LS swap on yours going to happen. The more I read, I think Im headed in that direction.

 

[Zjohnsonua]

When's the LS swap on yours going to happen. The more I read, I think Im headed in that direction.

dislike

 

[NC LX]

dislike

Don't worry, You've got time to change my mind over a few

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Turbo LS all day long

 

[Zjohnsonua]

Wellll, if boost is gonna be a thing I'll shut up. Twins on a 4.8 and send it, you must.

 

[NCFJ]

Chevrolet Performance LS3 6.2L 376 C.I.D 525 HP Engine​

Naturally aspirated, how much horsepower do ya really need?

Chevrolet Performance 19432418 Chevrolet Performance LS3 6.2L 376 C.I.D 525 HP Engine Assemblies | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Chevrolet Performance LS3 6.2L 376 C.I.D 525 HP Engine Assemblies with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Crate Engines at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

https://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/xlarge/nal-19432418_ap_xl.jpg

 

[mtweller]

Chevrolet Performance LS3 6.2L 376 C.I.D 525 HP Engine​

Naturally aspirated, how much horsepower do ya really need?

Chevrolet Performance 19432418 Chevrolet Performance LS3 6.2L 376 C.I.D 525 HP Engine Assemblies | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Chevrolet Performance LS3 6.2L 376 C.I.D 525 HP Engine Assemblies with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Crate Engines at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

https://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/xlarge/nal-19432418_ap_xl.jpg

Crate motors are 'spensive!!

 

[NC LX]

A little bit of progress worthy of an update over the last 3 weeks.

Drivers side floor rot removed, patches welded in. Stripped the floor to metal, used 2 part Epoxy primer to seal the metal, and seam sealer in the edges. All that work to be covered by layers of sound deadening to never be seen again.

Welded sections from the 86 and 83 to rebuild the rear door jamb.

Spot welded the door jamb, and then mocked up the rear quarter panel in place. Because of the length of the weld required on the QP, Im worried about welding and warping the panel. I contacted 3M and they recommended Panel bonding adhesive 8116 In this situation.

Waiting on the adhesive for the QP, I finished stripping the door jambs and used the 2 part epoxy primer to seal the bare metal.

 

[NC LX]

3m 8116 for the win. Glued the panels together, and skim coated with 3M body filler I picked up. Zero warpage.

Amazed at the difference between cheap bondo and professional grade body filler.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Can you highlight the panel bond seam? I'm ****in impressed, can't even see where it is, lol.

 

[NC LX]

Can you highlight the panel bond seam? I'm f***in impressed, can't even see where it is, lol.

Yeah, I’ll go into detail in case the info can benefit any one else.

Referencing the photo below, I cut just above the yellow line. I didn’t have to cut this high to remove the rot, It was just a good spot to cut that would be easy to blend coming off the compound curve of the 60 body lines. This also repaired the sections common to rust in the rear wheel well.

Below the yellow line is the donor QP. I drilled out the spot welds and was able to over lay the new panel so I could mark the panel To be cut. Using a flanger prepped the edge for the adhesive and the panel sit against each other. A similar tool that I used can be referenced below. Flanger And Hole Punch Combination Tool - https://www.eastwood.com/flanger-and-hole-punch-combination-tool.html?gclid=CjwKCAjw7p6aBhBiEiwA83fGuqpnMgzL-7UPY3zh_KcRRYICpBqfIYTlYfcpuYlj33o1KjOEjDkTfBoCIrQQAvD_BwE&wcid=18399899505&wickedid=&wickedsource=google&wv=4

Using 3M Panel Bonding Adhesive, 08116 Two-Part Epoxy, adhesive was applied to the sections in yellow and weld was applied to a rear highlighted in red.

I Referenced the video below from 3m to learn how to properly apply the 8116.

 

[NC LX]

2 part epoxy primer, high build primer and then a few spots of glazing putty. Took advantage of the sunshine and to get eyes on it out side. Really happy how it turned out since I got my accreditation from YouTube U.

 

[Zjohnsonua]

Congrats, you are now the official heart of the south paint and body dude. I've got two qtr panels waiting on ya