My worst enemy

WES1977

 
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My worst enemy Rust

Rust. I changed out my rear 3rd. Drain plug had what looked like rust chips in it and take a look..




So far so good...

then




That's the long side. The short side was clean.
I used a wire brush to clean it up as much as possible and ran paper towels threw there to get the big chunks off.

This is how I left it




Anyone ever seen this? I'm guessing it rusted because the oil was low because it all leaked out the pinion seal.
 
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WES1977

 
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Ok another Question: Does anyone have pics of the breathers on the transfer case and tranny? How do you get to them? Are they under the hump?

As you can see on the first picture i'm extending my breathers. The biggest reason i'm extending is to help against corrosion and getting clogged.
 

HawkDriver

 
 
 
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That's some nasssty shizzznit. How do you plan on keeping it from rusting again? As I recall there are breather caps on the top of the gearboxes, should be able to see em or feel em easily.
 
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Gearbox (std) breathes through the gearshift. T/case has breather on top.

This is what I did on mine...
The t/case breather I tapped a new hole on the big nut which was the old breather and fitted a tail.



Gearbox I drilled and tapped the top cover. I then sealed up the standard holes in the rubber cap over the gearstick.

 

WES1977

 
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HawkDriver said:
That's some nasssty shizzznit. How do you plan on keeping it from rusting again? As I recall there are breather caps on the top of the gearboxes, should be able to see em or feel em easily.
well i'm hoping a full diff fluid will help and i'm going to spray the outside with zinc primer. The rust is supposed to attack zinc first. No clue if it will work.
 

WES1977

 
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I also have some vibration in the drive train now. The only thing I did was pulled the drive shaft and swapped 3rd members. I played with the U joints and it felt ok to me. I did pack the drive shaft with some grease. I thought about this last night when I was bolting the 4 drive shaft bolts back on the top 2 I had to use the screws to set the plates like the angle may have been to much. I'll post some pictures later today. Any guess?




You can see some grease splater. Maybe to much grease. When mounting on the 3rd there is no certain way it connects to the shaft is it? (like line up)
 
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Rice

 
 
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WES1977 said:
I also have some vibration in the drive train now. The only thing I did was pulled the drive shaft and swapped 3rd members. I played with the U joints and it felt ok to me. I did pack the drive shaft with some grease. I thought about this last night when I was bolting the 4 drive shaft bolts back on the top 2 I had to use the screws to set the plates like the angle may have been to much. I'll post some pictures later today. Any guess?




You can see some grease splater. Maybe to much grease. When mounting on the 3rd there is no certain way it connects to the shaft is it? (like line up)

"Packing" with grease can allow for significant compression on the driveline if it doesn't allow the slip yoke to move freely. If you pulled the slip yoke apart to pack with grease were you sure to put the U-joints back in phase with each other, i.e. U-joints on each end of the shaft must align with each other.
 

WES1977

 
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Yeah talking with a guy at work. He told me I should have made sure I went back into the same splines that it came out of on the slip yoke.

So I guess my only option is to pull the shaft and move it to get the vibration out. Trail and error.
 
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WES1977

 
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Update on my vibration! I think it's the flang on the 3rd member. I"m trying to figure out how to post a movie.
 
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CruisinGA

 
 
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It is not trial and error, completely.

You line up the shafts so that the u-joint "cups" on either end of the shaft (not the flanges) are in the same plane.

Since there are two locations where they are in the same plane, one is in balance and one is not. You should try both locations.

This is referred to as "in phase" or in your case, "out of phase".
 
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Is zinc paint a good idea inside an axle? I am asking, I don't know. It seems to me that once the axle has the necesary fluid level rust should not be an issue, however i would be concerned at the possible chemical reactions between the 90 weight and the zinc paint at the temperatures an axle can reach.

Have you thought about using steel wool and a drill to clean out the axle shaft? Cram it full of steel wool and use an extremely long spade bit to turn the steel wool inside the shaft?
 

WES1977

 
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IanB said:
Is zinc paint a good idea inside an axle? I am asking, I don't know. It seems to me that once the axle has the necesary fluid level rust should not be an issue, however i would be concerned at the possible chemical reactions between the 90 weight and the zinc paint at the temperatures an axle can reach.

Have you thought about using steel wool and a drill to clean out the axle shaft? Cram it full of steel wool and use an extremely long spade bit to turn the steel wool inside the shaft?
I'm going to leave it like it is on the inside i'm going to paint the outside.
 
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I'd flush out the inside of that axle with orthophosphoric acid (get it at the paint store), myself - it'll convert all that self-catalyzing red rust to the relatively inert black rust, and elminate any chance for long-term pitting or rust-induced failure.

Red rust never sleeps, even when oiled - if there is oxygen present, it will continue to make more rust.

I dare say we've lost more fj40's to rust than to accident.

Kirk
 

WES1977

 
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well i have some ospho. And i'm guessing I need to change out my 3rd again. Does the video work? I want to know if my 3rd is bad.
 
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i would have macyvered a wire brush onto a long rod and put it on a drill i think it woulda worked awesome, then blow the rust out of the sides with some air... JMO but your prob already done, the walls shouldn't rust anymore if you have enough oil in there...


if you have any bolts that come off with the nuts near the top of your pumpkin, just stick a tube in there and pump it in there and you'll get a higher level then you would putting it through the reg. fill hole, i do this because i have a funny pinion angle so it seems to work
 
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oh yeah and if you have rust chips floating around in there you might want to check/replace your bearings because they might be fawkeeddd
 
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