Long time listener, essentially first time caller. On the hunt for a +16 200. This one is a NE LX, and my gut tells me to pass but want to confirm with the brain trust.
My very own “is this too much rust” thread!
- Thread starter skifreak85353
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Doesn't look too bad to me. Any close-ups of the AHC lines and hardware? NE for Nebraska or New England? Neither is great place to start, but I'd consider that pretty good condition for New England.
Far from being the worst..
Do they salt heavily in VA? If rust isn't inevitable where you live, wait for one that is cleaner. If it'll end up looking like that anyway..
Do they salt heavily in VA? If rust isn't inevitable where you live, wait for one that is cleaner. If it'll end up looking like that anyway..
Poke & prod the worst spots. If it’s not disintegrating and price is right, get it cleaned up & coated asap.
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Not the worst, but if you like to wrench on your rigs, this one will require quite a bit of elbow grease.
Not enough rust to reject only on that, so make your decision on other factors, IMHO. Will need new transmission and transfer case shields perhaps, and will need a good rust treatment overall. I’m ignorant about rust and AHC, however, so take the advice on that from others on here.
I personally would pass on that being an LX with AHC. AHC is great, but not with heavy salt exposure.
My 2013 here in salty Chicago has a fraction of that amount of rust.
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- #9
Thanks team. NE = New England, Massachusetts specifically. VA has no clue what to do when snow flies so they brine and salt the roads weeks before and after a potential snow event. I don’t mind wrenching but I’m not sure I want to deal with the overhang of rusty gremlins. I think I might pass. Nothing special about this rig. The hunt shall continue.
Wow! Really?
My 2021 that has been based here in Houston all its life, isn’t that far off from those photos.
Though we are frequently in Colorado in the winters.
Yeah. Fluid film and a good layer or Moab dirt really staves off the rust. The only bad spots are my aftermarket sliders and bumper and the exhaust because you can’t really do much to protect it aside from hope the SS holds up
Do you make any special effort to get the salt off the bottom of the vehicle when you get back south?
Yes, I do.
Though I have to admit that it’s “special” in the sense that I wouldn’t do it but for having been in places with salt on the roads.
I take it to a self cleaning place and spray the undercarriage for 10 min or so. Trying to get the nooks and crannies.
But I know it’s not a thorough job that I’m doing.
You guys make me feel bad about myself!
This is my rust.
Though I have to admit that it’s “special” in the sense that I wouldn’t do it but for having been in places with salt on the roads.
I take it to a self cleaning place and spray the undercarriage for 10 min or so. Trying to get the nooks and crannies.
But I know it’s not a thorough job that I’m doing.
You guys make me feel bad about myself!
This is my rust.
- Thread starter
- #15
I love it. Keep the conversation going!!
I'd say yes. Cause you're only seeing what you can see, you're not seeing all the rust. Imagine trying to get some of those bolts off?
This looks 10X better than the OP photos. Those ones had actual rot starting, while this has minor surface rust.
- Thread starter
- #18
Back with another copy for the brain trust. This is a '16 Land Cruiser in IL. Doesn't seem like alot of rust, but to my uninformed eye, some of the places that do have rust have a concerning amount. But maybe I am wrong?
Also unsure if this video will come through but a pretty good walk-under while up on the lift
Also unsure if this video will come through but a pretty good walk-under while up on the lift
Looks pretty good to me. I'd scrub those rusty seams on the frame rail and POR15, then just do maintenance undercoating in the future. You could buy a replacement gas tank skid if it bothers you.
- Thread starter
- #20
Cool! Would this be a good candidate for dry ice blasting?