- Thread starter
- #41
I hear they fit, but require rewiring as the bulb locations are different on the pre and facelifts.
My Sequoia: the LX450 replacement (DD & family/car hauler)
- Thread starter Dan McBoost
- Start date
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You mind sharing the brand on the headlight assembly? i’m looking to replace mine and I haven’t pulled the trigger because i’m worried about the fit. These look great!Completed the headlight swap and newer LED headlights bulbs ( the type that has a projector built in for custom aiming and perfect cut off line).
- Thread starter
- #43
Why are you looking to replace the headlights? My OEM ones started leaking and cracking so I had to. I did love the GTR LED bulbs in the OEM housing.
These are branded Feybreg, made in china but do not leak. The only major problem with them is the aim adjustments are junk, thus my swap to the modded projector set up as you can aim those independently. FWIW, aiming the LED projectors is a PITA as you have to adjust those with the lights removed.
Amazon product ASIN B091SRBV7J
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- Thread starter
- #45
Well I have two updates. Trusty and true amazing machine.
A) I installed a magnaflow exhaust system Friday after work. Love it and just needed some new flanges welded onto the end of the downpipes. They were trash.
B) I have been getting a P0018 code for a few months. At first it would only appear on cold windy days, maybe 4 times total in the first couple of months and more recently about every cold start up.
notes:
Yes, I have checked the timing, it is spot on and not loose.
If it's pending after a cold start and I clear it, I can drive it, park it, start it all day long and it does not come back until the next time it is cold.
It runs great, nothing different at all.
I have a new cam sensor I am going to swap in. I am guessing it is out of range, but I just have not had the garage space (until this week and the exhaust HAD to get fixed first) until now. I hope to have answers soon.
A) I installed a magnaflow exhaust system Friday after work. Love it and just needed some new flanges welded onto the end of the downpipes. They were trash.
B) I have been getting a P0018 code for a few months. At first it would only appear on cold windy days, maybe 4 times total in the first couple of months and more recently about every cold start up.
notes:
Yes, I have checked the timing, it is spot on and not loose.
If it's pending after a cold start and I clear it, I can drive it, park it, start it all day long and it does not come back until the next time it is cold.
It runs great, nothing different at all.
I have a new cam sensor I am going to swap in. I am guessing it is out of range, but I just have not had the garage space (until this week and the exhaust HAD to get fixed first) until now. I hope to have answers soon.
- Thread starter
- #46
I still did not get any answers about the P0018 code and now I am also getting P0016. Timing is still perfect and not loose WTF.
Before snow flies, I will get under the hood and check the wiring (mouse? cracked?) and grounds (old?). Sadly (not really) I need to get my alltrac out of my "shop" and get a supra parts car to yank the drivetrain then get my supra here for the winter build. Or just drop it off at the dealer, hmm.
I did get other stuff done between the currently garage projects hold ups:
Before snow flies, I will get under the hood and check the wiring (mouse? cracked?) and grounds (old?). Sadly (not really) I need to get my alltrac out of my "shop" and get a supra parts car to yank the drivetrain then get my supra here for the winter build. Or just drop it off at the dealer, hmm.
I did get other stuff done between the currently garage projects hold ups:
- Fixed the rear door checks with the doorman swap parts.
- Repainted the rear door speaker grills when the panels were off.
- Finally installed the ditch light wiring and well as pulling more wiring into the interior for future needs.
- While I was in there, I installed some of the Audi floor lighting since I hated how dark the floors were. Sorry, we are spoiled.
- Thread starter
- #47
Hello all.
This weekend I finally took both the cam gear covers off and verified the timing is still perfect. I also checked the wiring going into the cam position sensors which both look good, then cleaned up a multiple ground point ring terminal on the top of the driver side valve cover, no change.
New cam sensors ordered (the ones on the top middle of the heads).
Also noted, after this horrendous winter in NY, a couple nasty looking rust spots above the windshield. I already bought a clean passenger side fender as it had a spot poking from below the flare. It is time for some fresh paint.
This weekend I finally took both the cam gear covers off and verified the timing is still perfect. I also checked the wiring going into the cam position sensors which both look good, then cleaned up a multiple ground point ring terminal on the top of the driver side valve cover, no change.
New cam sensors ordered (the ones on the top middle of the heads).
Also noted, after this horrendous winter in NY, a couple nasty looking rust spots above the windshield. I already bought a clean passenger side fender as it had a spot poking from below the flare. It is time for some fresh paint.
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- Thread starter
- #48
so for anyone wondering or curious.
My codes: P0016, P0018. last year P0018 started when the temp and engine was coldish. Over the past winter P0016 joined the party.
Clear codes they show up pending immediately. Since this has miles on it, I was not opposed to just replacing the sensors as they were not expensive or difficult to swap.
So P0016 and P0019
Checked timing, is good.
Checked belt tension, is good.
Replaced the crank sensor: DENSO 1961114 - No change.
Replaced the cam sensor: DENSO 1961004 - No change.
Replaced VVTI sensors: DENSO 1961115 - No change.
checked all wiring - all good.
checked with an ollisicope - all good.
WTF?
Yesterday, removed pins from the plug with those sensor wires and tightened them up a tad as a few were pretty loose (using sewing needles to check tension and compare to other pins.
No change.
Removed ECM to check internals. nothing burnt, fat or seemingly off. No smells.
stuck it back in, but had the epiphany to try a heat gun on the ECM.
Appling heat to the area that that plugs connections go to, I was able clear the codes/pending and they did not come back until it cooled off again. Tried this at least 15 times so heating it up makes it happy.
I priced a new ECM and will buy it if I brick the current one. I removed it and stuck it into a lab oven at 85C for 90 minutes. If it works, cool, if it's bricked or still not OK, then buying the new OEM one and driving a fun car for a few days.
My codes: P0016, P0018. last year P0018 started when the temp and engine was coldish. Over the past winter P0016 joined the party.
Clear codes they show up pending immediately. Since this has miles on it, I was not opposed to just replacing the sensors as they were not expensive or difficult to swap.
So P0016 and P0019
Checked timing, is good.
Checked belt tension, is good.
Replaced the crank sensor: DENSO 1961114 - No change.
Replaced the cam sensor: DENSO 1961004 - No change.
Replaced VVTI sensors: DENSO 1961115 - No change.
checked all wiring - all good.
checked with an ollisicope - all good.
WTF?
Yesterday, removed pins from the plug with those sensor wires and tightened them up a tad as a few were pretty loose (using sewing needles to check tension and compare to other pins.
No change.
Removed ECM to check internals. nothing burnt, fat or seemingly off. No smells.
stuck it back in, but had the epiphany to try a heat gun on the ECM.
Appling heat to the area that that plugs connections go to, I was able clear the codes/pending and they did not come back until it cooled off again. Tried this at least 15 times so heating it up makes it happy.
I priced a new ECM and will buy it if I brick the current one. I removed it and stuck it into a lab oven at 85C for 90 minutes. If it works, cool, if it's bricked or still not OK, then buying the new OEM one and driving a fun car for a few days.
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- Thread starter
- #49
No change. New ECM ordered.
- Thread starter
- #50
New ECM did not help. The Toyota tech and I are lost...
- Thread starter
- #51
Sadly found out today, that the other toyota dealer that did the timing belt did not tighten the crank pulley/dampener... not once, but twice. The first time was on the way home from their "completed" timing belt job back in 2022. They put in the toyota service notes "upon review, the crank pulley bolt became loose. All things checked, crank pulley bolt loctite'd and torqued as per spec". The current toyota dealer read that to me and said, "That's funny, there is no loctite on the crank pulley bolt at all and there is no way that would become loose if torqued properly."
The crank gear and key needs to be replaced. All else is fine.
What a waste of time and money, trusting the other toyota dealer. When I checked the timing and the pully was showing timing marks correct, but the crank gear behind it has its keyway very worn sideways from being loose in there.
It should be fixed today, then sold as I already picked up a 2nd gen.
The crank gear and key needs to be replaced. All else is fine.
What a waste of time and money, trusting the other toyota dealer. When I checked the timing and the pully was showing timing marks correct, but the crank gear behind it has its keyway very worn sideways from being loose in there.
It should be fixed today, then sold as I already picked up a 2nd gen.
