Since I’m waiting for the country to open up so I can pick up my new to me LC (more on that later) I’ve decided to get these wheels where I want them to be.
I got super lucky and found this complete set locally on CL from an older gent with a RW Tundra for $600. Got all the hardware as well but I will skip the locking lugs and get 4 more splined lugs and a second socket, PTR27-34070
@tplane2 in San Diego set me up with a spare that a friend of mine picked up for me, $200 + shipping. Still waiting on that shipping though...
The faux beadlocks aka “bling rings“ aren’t my thing. As a personal rule of thumb I don’t do anything fake and my long history with air cooled VW’s and bicycles has made me a weight weenie. They also trap debris and make it difficult to access the valve stem. With hardware the set of 4 adds nearly 8 pounds of unsprung weight. For my use they serve no purpose therefore they must go.
Yesterday I had the E rated KO's removed for $26 and I sold them today for $300. I will replace them with take-off C rated KO2's from a Jeep Rubicon (285/70). They are inexpensive and readily available second hand. This will keep the weight down, nearly matching the factory rim/tire combo. Once I have the spare I'll sell all 5 rings and 5 flat center caps. I will use the domed PTR20-34071 caps. Right now I'm looking at the wheel lips trying to figure out the best course of action to get them into presentable condition. They are covered in fine gouges from crap getting jammed in-between the wheel and ring. I'd like to have the holes tig welded shut but the finish on these wheels are still good and I'm not interested in repainting them at this time. Possibly later down the road. I've searched for hardware but as others have previously stated 8x1.00 machine screws to plug the holes are not commonly available and I'm not in the mood to trim 3-4mm off of 60 already very short screws. I considered stainless washers under the screws but 3+mm of washer isn't going to be a hot look either.
For now I suppose I'll leave the holes open and just have the lips machined flat, hopefully removing the wheel weight outer step as well. I hate seeing wheel weights. I will also have the center bores opened up to fit the front of the 100 without using spacers. If anyone has the precise specs on machining the center bore I would love to see them. I've used spacers before and never had an issue but this time I want it to be a bit more "factory" in appearance and function. Stay tuned!
I got super lucky and found this complete set locally on CL from an older gent with a RW Tundra for $600. Got all the hardware as well but I will skip the locking lugs and get 4 more splined lugs and a second socket, PTR27-34070
@tplane2 in San Diego set me up with a spare that a friend of mine picked up for me, $200 + shipping. Still waiting on that shipping though...
The faux beadlocks aka “bling rings“ aren’t my thing. As a personal rule of thumb I don’t do anything fake and my long history with air cooled VW’s and bicycles has made me a weight weenie. They also trap debris and make it difficult to access the valve stem. With hardware the set of 4 adds nearly 8 pounds of unsprung weight. For my use they serve no purpose therefore they must go.
Yesterday I had the E rated KO's removed for $26 and I sold them today for $300. I will replace them with take-off C rated KO2's from a Jeep Rubicon (285/70). They are inexpensive and readily available second hand. This will keep the weight down, nearly matching the factory rim/tire combo. Once I have the spare I'll sell all 5 rings and 5 flat center caps. I will use the domed PTR20-34071 caps. Right now I'm looking at the wheel lips trying to figure out the best course of action to get them into presentable condition. They are covered in fine gouges from crap getting jammed in-between the wheel and ring. I'd like to have the holes tig welded shut but the finish on these wheels are still good and I'm not interested in repainting them at this time. Possibly later down the road. I've searched for hardware but as others have previously stated 8x1.00 machine screws to plug the holes are not commonly available and I'm not in the mood to trim 3-4mm off of 60 already very short screws. I considered stainless washers under the screws but 3+mm of washer isn't going to be a hot look either.
For now I suppose I'll leave the holes open and just have the lips machined flat, hopefully removing the wheel weight outer step as well. I hate seeing wheel weights. I will also have the center bores opened up to fit the front of the 100 without using spacers. If anyone has the precise specs on machining the center bore I would love to see them. I've used spacers before and never had an issue but this time I want it to be a bit more "factory" in appearance and function. Stay tuned!