My Rock Warrior Wheel Project (2 Viewers)

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GTV

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Since I’m waiting for the country to open up so I can pick up my new to me LC (more on that later) I’ve decided to get these wheels where I want them to be.
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I got super lucky and found this complete set locally on CL from an older gent with a RW Tundra for $600. Got all the hardware as well but I will skip the locking lugs and get 4 more splined lugs and a second socket, PTR27-34070
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@tplane2 in San Diego set me up with a spare that a friend of mine picked up for me, $200 + shipping. Still waiting on that shipping though...
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The faux beadlocks aka “bling rings“ aren’t my thing. As a personal rule of thumb I don’t do anything fake and my long history with air cooled VW’s and bicycles has made me a weight weenie. They also trap debris and make it difficult to access the valve stem. With hardware the set of 4 adds nearly 8 pounds of unsprung weight. For my use they serve no purpose therefore they must go.
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Yesterday I had the E rated KO's removed for $26 and I sold them today for $300. I will replace them with take-off C rated KO2's from a Jeep Rubicon (285/70). They are inexpensive and readily available second hand. This will keep the weight down, nearly matching the factory rim/tire combo. Once I have the spare I'll sell all 5 rings and 5 flat center caps. I will use the domed PTR20-34071 caps. Right now I'm looking at the wheel lips trying to figure out the best course of action to get them into presentable condition. They are covered in fine gouges from crap getting jammed in-between the wheel and ring. I'd like to have the holes tig welded shut but the finish on these wheels are still good and I'm not interested in repainting them at this time. Possibly later down the road. I've searched for hardware but as others have previously stated 8x1.00 machine screws to plug the holes are not commonly available and I'm not in the mood to trim 3-4mm off of 60 already very short screws. I considered stainless washers under the screws but 3+mm of washer isn't going to be a hot look either.
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For now I suppose I'll leave the holes open and just have the lips machined flat, hopefully removing the wheel weight outer step as well. I hate seeing wheel weights. I will also have the center bores opened up to fit the front of the 100 without using spacers. If anyone has the precise specs on machining the center bore I would love to see them. I've used spacers before and never had an issue but this time I want it to be a bit more "factory" in appearance and function. Stay tuned!
 
I would be happy to purchase the the 'bling rings' and flat center caps for a reasonable price. PM me.
 
I'm following along. I have a set of RWs that have some... character. Interested in seeing how they look ring-less.

I agree with the notion of not having 'fake' things on the truck, but I can vouch for the value in the bling rings when wheeling. Even if they're meant to be fake cosmetic parts, they do a great job of protecting the wheel from rocks. I have numerous gashes on the rings that would have otherwise ended up on the actual wheel. If you're going to be doing much wheeling in rocky areas, I would recommend them. They're like wheel skid plates!
 
I’ll PM you when I’ve got the 5th in my hands
I would be happy to purchase the the 'bling rings' and flat center caps for a reasonable price. PM me.


I’ll be off-roading but I don’t anticipate ‘wheeling‘. They’ll be safe enough wrapped in 285/70’s.
I'm following along. I have a set of RWs that have some... character. Interested in seeing how they look ring-less.

I agree with the notion of not having 'fake' things on the truck, but I can vouch for the value in the bling rings when wheeling. Even if they're meant to be fake cosmetic parts, they do a great job of protecting the wheel from rocks. I have numerous gashes on the rings that would have otherwise ended up on the actual wheel. If you're going to be doing much wheeling in rocky areas, I would recommend them. They're like wheel skid plates!
 
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The faux beadlocks do a nice job of protecting against valve stem damage, as well as wheel rash. Just more feedback on them but sounds like you know about that stuff.
 
Ordered 4 domed TRD caps and the splined lug and socket set from McGeorge. The caps are nice, nicer and less plastic-y than the original flat caps. They also fit very well, I thought I read that they are slightly undersize but that definitely isn’t the case here. Snug fit, zero slop, positive engagement in the wheel center bore.
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Total cost with shipping- $126.10. Possibly the socket set can be found for less from the manufacturer McGard(?).
 
My 5th wheel arrived while I was on vacation. My LC is stranded in Boise but I do have my buddy’s LX.
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I was trying to get an idea of how much machining needs to be done to the center bore in order to fit the front without spacers. The answer is... far too much.
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Due to the shape of the wheel removing 1/4” of material would blow right through the center, not allowing caps to be fitted. Not the look I’m after.
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So I was forced on the route I was trying to avoid and ordered a pair of 3/8” spacers from Bora. At least the spacers will equal out the poke from front to rear.
 
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When you get the 3/8 spacers, would you take a picture of them sitting on the studs? Curious about the installation of the thin spacers.
JY

I certainly will, I’m interested as well.

I just dropped the wheels off to have the ring holes welded shut, lip machined flat and powder coated to match the bumpers, 1D2 Thundercloud.
 
Picked up a set of these on the cheap about a month ago. They need some cosmetic help. I’ll be messing with them over the winter, but want to follow your progress. Nice with the caps!
 
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Rings, etc. are sold :)
I now have 6 BFG KO2’s, 285/70’s in C load. Rubicon take-offs are cheap! I figure these are a great choice to start. And if I destroy one I’ve got a spare for my spare.
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Agreed. For 17s, it's ridiculously easy to find brand new, cheap Rubicon take-offs. I went with a set of Falken Wildpeak take-offs from a Gladiator, and I like them a lot. Very interested to see how the rest of the project comes along.
 
Finally time to wrap this up.
Bora 3/8” (9.52mm) spacers arrived last week and they weren’t what I was expecting.
Edit: I have since replaced the spacers with 1/4” versions here
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My fault for assuming they would have studs like the 3/4” Bora spacers I put on my old Sequoia last year. So I asked and he said 3/4” is as narrow as can be made with studs. Now I know. I’m really not crazy about having so much less thread engagement but I really don’t want to shove the wheels out any further than they already are. I’ve had them installed for a week, a couple road trips and some light off roading. Been carrying around a torque wrench and checking them regularly and everything is ok. Next time I’ve got a front wheel off I’ll pop a cap off and measure the clearance between the wheel and the hub hardware. Maybe they can be shaved down a pinch.

The wheel shop I went with was a big disappointment. I’m happy with the colour match to the bumpers but that’s about it. Long story and I really don’t want to elaborate. Safe to say don’t go to Cascade Wheel in Edmonds.

However from 10+ feet away they do look exactly how I hoped they would. The RW’s are a light forged wheel but they look heavy and chunky with the wide fake beadlock ring on there. Now they look as light as they are and have a much simpler aesthetic. The way they should have come, IMO.
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