My replacement Audio by Google AI

[mustardfj40]

This is from google AI, what you do you audiophiles think, kind of pricey but cheaper than the ARB bumper, white knuckle slider, Dissent rear bumper, ARB Base roof rack:
============

The Alpine iLX-W770-M is an exceptional, wireless Apple CarPlay/Android Auto head unit that forms a perfect core for this system. Below is your comprehensive blueprint, exact wiring scheme, and estimated build cost for your 1998 100-Series Land Cruiser. [1, 2]

System Layout Architecture​

• 
  
• Source: Dashboard ➔ Alpine iLX-W770-M Head Unit. [1, 3]
• Signal Processing: 3 sets of RCA patch cables run from the dash, under the floor carpet, to the passenger seat.
• Powerhouse: Passenger Seat Floor ➔ Kenwood Excelon X802-5 5-Channel Amp. [4]
• Acoustic Output:
  
  • Front/Rear Doors ➔ Kicker 51KSC6504 KS-Series 6.5" Speakers.
  • Trunk Pod ➔ Dual 4" Dayton Audio TCP115-4 Subwoofers. [5]

---

The Master Wiring Plan​

1. In-Dash Head Unit Wiring​

Splice the standard color-matched wires from your Alpine iLX-W770-M harness directly to your vehicle's aftermarket dashboard adapter harness. [6]

• 
  
• Do not connect any speaker wires from the Alpine head unit to the dash harness; leave them capped off. Your speakers are powered directly by the new amp.
• Plug three sets of RCA patch cables (Front, Rear, and Subwoofer outputs) into the back of the Alpine unit and route them back to the passenger seat cavity.

2. Under-Seat Factory Amp Plug Splices​

Locate the factory amplifier plugs under the passenger seat. You must execute two specific wire splices here to bridge the chassis loop:

• 
  
• Constant 12V Power Bypass: Connect the factory Blue/Yellow wire directly to the factory Grey/White wire. This completes the vehicle's electrical power line back to your dash.
• Remote Power Turn-on: Tap the Gray wire on the factory plug and connect it to the REM terminal on your Kenwood Excelon X802-5 amplifier. This acts as the trigger wire that tells the amplifier to wake up when your ignition key turns. [4]

3. Main Amplifier Connections (Kenwood X802-5)​

• 
  
• Main 12V Power Input: Run a dedicated 4-Gauge or 8-Gauge oxygen-free copper power line through the passenger side firewall directly to your positive (+) battery terminal. Install a 100A inline fuse close to the battery.[4, 7]
• Main Ground Input: Clean away factory paint on the steel seat bracket track or vehicle chassis frame. Bolt a short thick matching ground cable from the frame to the GND terminal on the Kenwood.
• Door Speaker Outputs:Splice your Kenwood's output channels straight into the factory speaker lines located at the old amplifier plug under the seat using this factory color key:
  
  • Front Left (+/-): Pink / Purple
  • Front Right (+/-): Light Green / Blue
  • Rear Left (+/-): Black / Yellow
  • Rear Right (+/-): Red / White
• Subwoofer Outputs (Parallel Circuit): Take both factory subwoofer line pairs sitting at the seat plug and combine them down right at the amplifier terminals. Twist both factory positive lines into the Kenwood's single Subwoofer (+) slot, and twist both factory negative lines into the Subwoofer (-) slot.

4. Rear Trunk Subwoofer Box Wiring​

Open your factory plastic subwoofer pod shell. Connect the pre-routed factory clips inside the box straight onto your new Dayton Audio TCP115-4 drivers. [5]

• 
  
• Polarity Check: Connect the factory Black wire to the Dayton Positive (+) terminal. Connect the factory Red wire to the Dayton Negative (-) terminal.

---

Total Projected Cost Breakdown​

Prices are estimated based on verified online marketplace values.

Equipment Item	Model / Description	Estimated Cost
Digital Head Unit	Alpine iLX-W770-M (6.75" Capacitive Touchscreen)	$449.95
5-Channel Amplifier	Kenwood Excelon X802-5 (Class-D Compact Architecture)	$349.00
Door Speakers (x4)	Kicker 51KSC6504 KS-Series 6.5" Speakers (Two Pairs Required)	$259.98
Subwoofer Drivers (x2)	Dayton Audio TCP115-4 4" Treated Paper Cone Woofers	$41.98
Install Accessories	8-Gauge Power Wiring Kit + 3x RCA Patch Cables + Door Mounting Brackets	$95.00
Total Hardware Cost	Complete Premium Audio Component Suite	$1,195.91

Next Steps to Begin Your Build​

When you are ready to place your order, consider purchasing your head unit and door speakers through Crutchfield. They will typically include your 100-Series specific dashboard trim bezels, front/rear mounting bracket rings, and speaker wiring plug clip links at no extra charge or heavily discounted in your cart. [1, 8]
Would you like me to find a step-by-step video tutorial showing how to safely pop off the 100-Series dashboard trim panels without cracking the older plastic tabs?

[1] https://www.crutchfield.com
[2] https://www.crutchfield.com
[3] https://www.youtube.com
[4] https://www.soundoftristate.com
[5] https://www.parts-express.com
[6] https://www.youtube.com
[7] https://www.crutchfield.com
[8] https://www.crutchfield.com

 

[jaewastooshort]

I have an Alpine iLX-W670 (iirc) in my corvette, and it is generally a really nice headunit... however, I have had a pretty consistent intermittent issue with the wireless Android Auto connection where I have to restart the headunit to get any audio, or it will get inexplicably delayed by 20 seconds or more (hitting pause takes 20 seconds to actually work, likewise changing tracks, regardless of the input coming from headunit or directly on phone app). As it was installed in the car before I bought it, it doesn't bother me all that much... if I'd been the one who paid (seller claimed) $500+ for it, I'd be a bit miffed at the performance, especially as I've had more reliable function from chinese android headunits.

 

[dbleon]

Hu

Of the several alpines I’ve tried over the years I just never really liked the sound. Maybe it was something else… or in my head

I generally like pioneer and kenwood better .. plus several models have active crossover networks which is a really nice feature for running raw drivers if you are interested in that. Way more user friendly but less robust that an external dsp.

Speakers

You can do way better on the door speakers for the cost. Especially if you have a nice crossover to work with you can pair up some nice 2 way components using raw drivers from places like parts express. Look at some of the peerless, visaton , tang band, Dayton, etc
Mounting depth might be the main consideration. You may need to make some baffles. Also look for a high QTS and BL speaker for the doors since many drivers are designed to be in a box vs free air or infinite baffle in the doors. If you call parts express they can recommend some good drivers.

Sound deadening and sealing the doors AND especially the door panel plastic will go a long way.
Sub
Without too much work you would be better off using a large format sub in a small box instead of the oe box. There are a plethora of fine subs out there that are efficient and compact. You just need something to fill the sub 60hz and will play flat. No need for anything crazy but a single 12 is the best bet in my experience. If you can make a large enough sealed enclosure it will not be too power hungry and will play flat and not bottom out unless you really crank it.

Amp
For the mainstream stuff.. I would look at the kicker amps before the kenwood but it’s probably fine as well. There are so many options. A five channel is great. Consider also just bridging channels 1-4 for a front stage if you decide to go with passive components and leave the rear a on HU power. Or run the rears on the 5-6 channel and get a monoblock for sub.

Wiring
Do at least 4 gauge power wire. Use good rcas and run new wire for all the speakers


I’m no expert by any means but those are my two cents from playing with car audio for like 25 years

 

[mustardfj40]

I have an Alpine iLX-W670 (iirc) in my corvette, and it is generally a really nice headunit... however, I have had a pretty consistent intermittent issue with the wireless Android Auto connection where I have to restart the headunit to get any audio, or it will get inexplicably delayed by 20 seconds or more (hitting pause takes 20 seconds to actually work, likewise changing tracks, regardless of the input coming from headunit or directly on phone app). As it was installed in the car before I bought it, it doesn't bother me all that much... if I'd been the one who paid (seller claimed) $500+ for it, I'd be a bit miffed at the performance, especially as I've had more reliable function from chinese android headunits.

The iLX-W650, has the “wired” Android connection and the iLX-W670 has the “wireless” to both Appleplay and Android. I like the chinese heads for much lower prices, but my concern is quality as most of them are just no-name

 

[mustardfj40]

Hu

Of the several alpines I’ve tried over the years I just never really liked the sound. Maybe it was something else… or in my head

I generally like pioneer and kenwood better .. plus several models have active crossover networks which is a really nice feature for running raw drivers if you are interested in that. Way more user friendly but less robust that an external dsp.

Speakers

You can do way better on the door speakers for the cost. Especially if you have a nice crossover to work with you can pair up some nice 2 way components using raw drivers from places like parts express. Look at some of the peerless, visaton , tang band, Dayton, etc
Mounting depth might be the main consideration. You may need to make some baffles. Also look for a high QTS and BL speaker for the doors since many drivers are designed to be in a box vs free air or infinite baffle in the doors. If you call parts express they can recommend some good drivers.

Sound deadening and sealing the doors AND especially the door panel plastic will go a long way.
Sub
Without too much work you would be better off using a large format sub in a small box instead of the oe box. There are a plethora of fine subs out there that are efficient and compact. You just need something to fill the sub 60hz and will play flat. No need for anything crazy but a single 12 is the best bet in my experience. If you can make a large enough sealed enclosure it will not be too power hungry and will play flat and not bottom out unless you really crank it.

Amp
For the mainstream stuff.. I would look at the kicker amps before the kenwood but it’s probably fine as well. There are so many options. A five channel is great. Consider also just bridging channels 1-4 for a front stage if you decide to go with passive components and leave the rear a on HU power. Or run the rears on the 5-6 channel and get a monoblock for sub.

Wiring
Do at least 4 gauge power wire. Use good rcas and run new wire for all the speakers


I’m no expert by any means but those are my two cents from playing with car audio for like 25 years

Thank you, the AI also brought up the important of sound deadening in the cruiser and provided info wiring info. There are better speakers but accourding both AI and Crutchfield they wont fit the LC without major door cutting and mods. I’ll do more research on these and will try some much cheaper chinese stuffs. The last time I setup a car stereo was back in 1985, I had so much fun building and it sounded very good compared to factory car stereo of the time. Thanks for the feedback

 

[mustardfj40]

I have an Alpine iLX-W670 (iirc) in my corvette, and it is generally a really nice headunit... however, I have had a pretty consistent intermittent issue with the wireless Android Auto connection where I have to restart the headunit to get any audio, or it will get inexplicably delayed by 20 seconds or more (hitting pause takes 20 seconds to actually work, likewise changing tracks, regardless of the input coming from headunit or directly on phone app). As it was installed in the car before I bought it, it doesn't bother me all that much... if I'd been the one who paid (seller claimed) $500+ for it, I'd be a bit miffed at the performance, especially as I've had more reliable function from chinese android headunits.

The iLX-W650, has the “wired” Android connection and the iLX-W670 has the “wireless” to both Appleplay and Android. I like the chinese heads for much lower prices, but my concern is quality as most of them are just no-name. Thanks for the feedback

 

[mustardfj40]

I saw a youtube video and the guy mentioned something about amplify bypass wiring without explain do I let AI explains it to me:
==
Absolutely. The term “amplifier bypass” is confusing because it can mean two different things. In your 1998 Land Cruiser with the factory premium audio system, here’s what it means.





Your factory system


Toyota wired it like this:


Factory Head Unit


│


│ (low-level audio signal)


▼


Factory Amplifier


(under passenger seat)


│


│ (amplified speaker output)


▼


Front speakers


Rear speakers


Factory rear dual-4" enclosure


The factory head unit does not directly power the speakers.


It sends a low-level signal to the factory amplifier.


The factory amplifier then powers all the speakers.





Installing the Alpine W770


The Alpine works differently.


It can either:

• power speakers directly using its built-in amplifier, or
• send RCA signals to an aftermarket amplifier like your Kicker KEY200.4.

So your new system will look like this:


Alpine W770


│


▼


Kicker KEY200.4


│


▼


Factory speaker wiring


│


▼


Kicker speakers


The Toyota amplifier is no longer needed.





So what does “bypass the factory amp” mean?


It simply means:


Remove the Toyota amplifier from the audio path.


Instead of:


Head Unit


│


Toyota Amp


│


Speakers


you’ll have:


Head Unit


│


KEY200.4


│


Speakers


The Toyota amplifier is completely disconnected.





Why can’t I leave the Toyota amp connected?


Because then you’d have:


Alpine


│


Toyota Amp


│


KEY200.4


│


Speakers


That means:

• two amplifiers in series,
• extra noise,
• distortion,
• poor sound quality,
• improper gain structure.

You want one amplifier driving the speakers—not two.





What actually gets bypassed?


Not the speaker wires.


This is the important part.


The existing Toyota speaker wiring that runs through the doors stays in place.


Only the Toyota amplifier is removed from the circuit.


Think of it like replacing a water pump in a plumbing system:


Pipe


Pump


Pipe


You remove the old pump and install a new pump using the same pipes.


The “pipes” (speaker wiring) stay.


The “pump” (amplifier) changes.





In your Land Cruiser


Under the passenger seat you’ll find:


Toyota wiring harness


│


▼


Factory Amplifier


▲


Toyota wiring harness


After the upgrade:


Toyota wiring harness


│


▼


Kicker KEY200.4


▲


Toyota wiring harness


Same wiring.


Different amplifier.





Why installers use an amplifier bypass harness


Instead of cutting Toyota’s wiring, a bypass harness plugs into the factory amp connectors.


Toyota connector


│


Bypass harness


│


KEY200.4


Advantages:

• No factory wires are cut
• Easy to return to stock
• Easier troubleshooting
• Cleaner installation
• Better resale value

For your build


This is exactly how I would install it:

• Alpine iLX-W770 in the dash
• Kicker KEY200.4 mounted where the factory amp was under the passenger seat
• Reuse all the factory speaker wiring
• Kicker HS10 powered sub under the driver’s seat with its own built-in amplifier
• Factory Toyota amplifier removed from the signal path

This gives you a clean, modern system while preserving the factory wiring throughout the vehicle.

 

[dbleon]

If you run an aftermarket amp without new speaker wire you will need a bypass harness.. but be careful because many multi-speaker factory systems use caps on the leads for smaller speakers … not sure of your particular setup.
If you run new wire then no need. FWIW the bypass harnesses usually cost more than some good quality speaker wire… and it’s relatively easy to run new wire since you’ll probably already have the interior apart to run for the amp.

Then you would just leave the factory amp and wire in place and disconnected.

The depth thing will be your limitation on speakers .. many times crutchfield published max depth based on the factory mounting or the mounting ring adapters they sell.. and it’s conservative often leaving off .5” or more for “window clearance”. A lot of times you can build a 3/4-1.5” spacer “baffle” and also do some trimming to the inside of the door panel plastic to get deeper speakers to fit. It may also depend on the magnet shape/size if the window track comes into play. In this case I’ve used speakers with (much more compact) neodymium magnets to clear the track. Lastly if you weren’t scared to do so .. you could do a super thick baffle and blow through the front of the door panel plastic. This would give you pretty much infinite speaker options with regard to depth. It would also help completely isolate the front and rear sound waves which is ideal for SQ. Then you use a press fit mesh, cloth, or similar grill . You could even fiberglass it and warp in in suede or leather etc.. but this in getting into custom stuff..time consuming, and is not “factory” look

Skie the limit.

I bet if your willing to trim the inside of the door baffle and build a baffle you could get much better speakers to fit

 

[jaewastooshort]

when I replaced the Mark Levinson system in my '01 I ran 2 pair of RCA cables to a new 4-channel amp under the passenger seat, and picked out the factory speaker out wires to send signal to the doors. I replaced the front door speakers with JL components (woofer, tweeters, and crossover mounted inside the door cards) and co-axial JL speakers in the rear doors. I bypassed the factory sub entirely and went with a standalone Alphasonik 10" sub/amp/box setup... at this point I wish I'd gone with a 12" just for range, but I went with the 10" for the smaller box profile.