My New 60

[60wag]

Doc - the last picture with the green connector with three wires is definitely the OE fusible link assembly. The ones with square rubber tabs, like Swank60 is referring to, are aftermarket ones available at auto parts stores. Are you SURE the links are on the minus side of the batt? The minus side of the batt should have a short thick cable bolted to the fender right next to the battery. The truck shouldn't run if the links are grounded - most of the wiring harness originates at the fusible links.

You're right in that it appears the old igniter is still plugged in. In fact I think the old igniter is still in use. In the second picture you can see red and white wires heading off to the right. These should go to the distributor. The wires tied to the terminal strip are what used to go to the original coil. One of the blue boxes is obviously a replacement coil. But what is the other one for? Is it hooked up?

 

[swank60]

Okay, so I looked at this photo a little closer - that's not the negative you're coming off of - there 's no way your truck would be running if the batt hooked up backwards. In this photo, I can clearly see the main white wire hooked to the green plug (right near where the neg cable and that red hold down thing intersect visually) - that's the f-link to go after.

All of the factory stuff was pulled out of mine but you can still tie in the new inline fuses.

Also, this just further adds to my idea about the fan/fusable link. I hate to disagree with 60wag on this one (he seriously is more knowledgable than I am) but I went through this whole thing for 3 months with my rig.

If it has been vapor locking, as I suspect, you may not be able to use your accelerator pump to get gas into the throat of the carb - the heat that boils the gas also damages the cup that creates the pressure to squirt the gas. You can try pumping it by hand (the lever for the accel pump is on the opposite side of the carb throat under the breather) and you might get some squirting.

To test the fuel pump, but be careful, just pull a line from it and has someone turn it over. Gas squirts out, it's working. It's not a high-pressure pump, so don't expect anything dramatic. Like 60wag says, check the spark by pulling one of the hi-ten cables from a plug, stick a screwdriver in it so it makes a good contact, and hold it over a ground so it'll jump the spark. Watch out though, don't touch the truck - it's about 15,000 volts. As bad as that ignition mess is, I just don't think it would run fine, sit and then while it's sitting, fail. Fuel pump won't fail from sitting either. Plus, since there wasn't any gas in the sight glass of your carb, well...

One question, the last time you drove the truck, was it warmer outside that it has been lately?

 

[Doc]

There go my half electrical skills again.

Yeah- those links are going to the positive terminal. (I generally think it terms of red and black terminals!) Those links are definatley going to the red terminal.

The last time I drove the truck it was cool outside- morning. Not hot at all. And, the fan was running when I shut the truck off. That's why I don't think it's vapor lock. But maybe it is?! I'm no mechanic! I'll try pulling that fuel hose off and turning the truck over tonight- see if I get any squirting.

But you guys say I should be able to start the truck even with a dead pump? Just by priming it with the gas pedal or linkage by the carb? Haven't been successfull doing that yet.

FUEL FILTER- I pulled the line going INTO the fuel filter- gas came running out. Then I pulled the line coming OUT of the fuel filter. No gas leaked out of the filter, and the line after the filter was EMPTY. The filter doesn't look plugged though.

I also tried pumping the pedal with the linkage at the carb, no gas!

 

[60wag]

If pumping the the throttle linkage get no squirt in the carb, the bowl in the carb is likely empty. I'll second, or third, the rec' to remove the fuel line at the carb and try cranking it. If the fuel pump is working (and the filter isn't clogged), a lot of gas will gush out. A third possible issue is that the fuel lines from the tank are clogged. Not sure what the best way to address that issue - maybe a shot of compressed air back up the line - with the gas cap removed. The FJ60s had a gas tank recall which involved replacing the entire tank - for free. Call up your local Toyota with the VIN and find out if the tank has been done. If it hasn't then there's a good chance there is some rust or gunk getting into the fuel line to clog it up. If the tank has been done, well, its been done.

One more thought on the timing issue... The distributor caps are labled with the cyl numbers. Is the #1 plug connected to #1 on the cap? If not, then the dizzy is probably installed wrong.

 

[Doc]

About the line to the filter being plugged- I removed it last night and gas flowed freely. I don't think the line from the tank has any gunk in it.

When I removed the line after the filter there was no gas coming out of the fuel filter nor was there any gas in the line going to the fuel pump.

 

[swank60]

Try replacing that filter - It shouldn't be totally dry.

It's good that your fan is working. That's a stupid, stupid thing to unhook, and so many POs unhook it.

I hate POs.

You might try bypassing the filter if you can't replace it to test the fuel pump. Find a bit of metal line - about 3" and clamp the lines to it bypassing the filter. If you don't have the means to bypass it, well, replace that filter and go from there.

Another thing it could be is the charcoal canister, or, as 60wag said, the tank. If the canister is blocked up, it'll create a ton of vac in your tank and suck that gas back into the tank. You can try loosening your gas cap and see if it sucks in a lot of air - that might help a little.

 

[Doc]

See the wires on the right side that are supposed to go to the factory ignitor? One has two wires going to it, the other one.

Ok, now the large black piece of plastic covering the red nipple for the ignitor? Ok, take the plastic off and there are two small screws- these screws are where the two wires go, right? Ok, which wire goes on which post? Double wire on the firewall side, or battery side?

Also, where would I get the long main wire to the distributor? Parts store?

 

[60wag]

The double wire goes on the terminal near the firewall. The single on the term towards the front of the truck. The igniter is the little silver box mounted on top of the cylindrical coil. The threaded bolt terminals are on the coil. For the high voltage wire going from the coil to the center of the distrib - you might be able to use the Jacobs one. Will it pull off the Jacobs box? If it does, and the terminal is similar to the one on the center of the OE coil, just plug it in. If they're not the same, I'd try an auto parts store. They probably won't sell one wire separate from a set - you might need the whole set. I'd rec getting a Toyota set from Cruiser Dan here on IH8mud - great prices and shipping. In a pinch buy a cheap set to get it running.

 

[Doc]

Yeah, I pulled the aftermaket main wire and it is a female type end, I need a male type end for the OE coil recepticle.

So, it won't work.

I just ordered $150 from CruiserDan yesterday! Two new fobs for the wifey's 80, and a new antenna mast, again for the 80.

I'll also take the camera along this time to take more pics.