My "new" 2007 FJ Cruiser

Discussion in 'FJ Cruiser' started by fjdemon, Jul 23, 2018.

  1. fjdemon

    fjdemon SILVER Star

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    I figured I would start a thread to post up what I have and what I do to it along the way.


    2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser

    168,000 miles

    A-TRAC and Rear Diff Locker


    Day 1:


    IMG_2622.jpg IMG_2623.jpg


    Super clean, but some issues. The seller was fairly honest.

    I don't know what wheels these are? Any idea?

    Known issues disclosed:

    Slight shimmy/shudder at 25 mph when under light acceleration (I've read all the threads on this and I'm guessing it's the torque converter??) He said it's been doing it for a while and the dealership told him not to worry about it. It's okay my purchase price reflected this.

    Gas tank skid pan was hanging. (turns out the whole strap was broken) I have new straps and hardware on order and currently have a ratchet strap in place of the rear strap for now.

    Console shift boot for T-case was messed up. I re-glued on the insulation and popped it back in (done).

    Issues found:

    slight leak in the roof, research shows it's likely a dried out washer so I ordered a new mounting kit for the roof rack. We've been getting massive rains and it's flooding up here in D.C.; the leak barely wets a 3" circle near the b pillar. Should be an easy fix.

    Pros:

    For some reason the dealer convince the previous owner to dish out $4k+ to replace the timing chain, so that is done.

    Looks like the exhaust has had a section replaced;

    No rust underneath, super clean. The whole truck is immaculate inside and out.

    Cons:

    Two tiny pings by the lock mechanism and a little scuff on the back tailgate.

    transmission shudder/shimmy

    roof leak

    I'm super happy with the purchase!

    Georgia Ad Valorem tax is $923! Yikes....



    I took it and had Toyota do the transmission service with their cleaners, additives, and new WS fluid.
     
  2. fjdemon

    fjdemon SILVER Star

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    Planning to line x the roof. Any recommendations on what to remove before I bring it in? Should I remove the channel molding and let them spray in the channels?

    I'm googling some information now, just don't want to overlook anything.
     
  3. PageToyota

    PageToyota Supporting Vendor

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    OEM PART# 42611-35480: 17 X 7.5J ALUMINUM P265/70R17
     
  4. fjdemon

    fjdemon SILVER Star

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    That doesn't look the same to me.
     
  5. fjdemon

    fjdemon SILVER Star

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    Okay found them! 128488-04131121 2014-2016 4runner OEM wheels


    Screen Shot 2018-07-23 at 6.53.49 PM.png
     
  6. lgrt

    lgrt

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    Welcome to the Mud community
     
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  7. fjdemon

    fjdemon SILVER Star

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    Just a quick update. The ever so slight "shimmy" around 25 mph seems to be gone. When I first left the dealership it was still there, but it went away in less than a couple days so it makes me think the additive did something. I'll have to drive it a bit more to see how if I can recreate the issue. I was a bit scared to flush it at 168k, but given the service history (even though it wasn't noted in it) I assumed it had to have been done at least once. I also figured since it was WS fluid in the sealed transmission it was worth the risk.

    Does anyone know exactly what the dealership adds to the trans in this process? They said they flush it with a cleaner then additives are put in? Don't quote me on the phrasing.

    I'm running premium fuel. I have read it doesn't matter from numerous forums. What do you all run? I'll search here in a few mins, but was curious. 15.7 mpg first fill up. 50/50 highway city

    I think this guy did a great job with his torque converter shudder write up. I am not sure how accurate it is, but I found it interesting so I'll pass it along:


    "
    Torque converter shudder is usually caused when there is a buildup of contaminants in your automatic transmission fluid. This is the way it happens: let’s say there’s a buildup of deposits somewhere in the transmission that is freed up by the detergent properties of the automatic transmission fluid. And, let’s say further that the contaminants begin recirculating throughout your transmission as they are likely to be microscopic to small in size so they will easily get through things like the valve body and they will likely get by the filters because they are too small, at this point.

    As time passes on and the contaminants continue to circulate they begin to fall out of the transmission fluid again, this time on other parts of the transmission, say a gear or a clutch pack or, perhaps, on an impeller turbo vane. Over time, other contaminants are attracted to the new buildup like metal is attracted to a magnet (look at the magnetized screw in your transmission pan for confirmation the next time you change fluid. If there are small shards on it, the plug is doing its job of taking metal out of the fluid and holding it safely out of the way).

    Now, let’s say there’s enough contaminant buildup on one of the parts mentioned earlier, let’s further say, it’s an impeller van, and so what happens when the buildup becomes large enough to effect the part? The part slips briefly causing a shudder through the whole transmission. It is easy to feel as the vibration goes through the entire structure of your car. (The reason this happens is the way cars are built today. Car frame members are attached to one another throughout the body of the vehicle. This increases tortional strength or resistance to breaking and shearing. It also increases intrusion protection. The downside is that if there’s a resonant vibration anywhere in the frame, it is felt in all parts of the frame equally.)

    The funny thing about transmission shudder (torque converter shudder) is the quick nature of the whole thing. Usually, the buildup, when it reaches the stage where it can become a nuisance in the transmission, breaks down and goes away as quickly as it appears. It may take several driving cycles as the problem breaks down for it to go away fully, but it usually does. Note that this type of problem can happen anywhere in the transmission. Sometimes, buildups can become troublesome. In that case, you’ll have to employ a quick fix.

    The fix is relatively easy. Swap the old transmission fluid and filter. (Don’t rely on a drainage and replacement; you will have to drop the transmission pan to get all of the automatic transmission fluid out as well as to access to filter). Then, replace it with fresh fluid and a fresh filter. If the problem repeats, repeat the process. Yes, it is costly in terms of transmission fluid and filters, but, think of it this way. By paying $30 to $50 for the proper fluid and another $35 for the filter, you are ultimately saving because, even if you invest $200 in new fluid and filters, you are saving yourself about $2,800 in major work to the transmission.

    Here’s an important thing to note: while some authorities say it’s best to remove all the fluid by using a blast of compressed air on one side of the transmission and draining things off, it actually can cause damage. If a part is dislodged or a major clump of something breaks off and travels through your transmission along with the rest of the evacuating fluid, it may cause damage downstream. All it takes to remove the total amount of fluid is patience. First drain the fluid, let the vehicle rest as all of the fluid will drip down to the pan and second remove the pan over a bucket to keep the floor clean. That’s it and your transmission is safe."
     
    Last edited: Jul 24, 2018
  8. BMThiker

    BMThiker I aim to misbehave Moderator SILVER Star

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    I got rid of the transmission shudder by dropping the pan, cleaning the metal screen filter, then refilling the fluid that dropped (5-6 qts). Did all this with the vehicle parked, not running. Repeated the process a few weeks later, but only drained the fluid with the plug instead of dropping the pan. IIRC the trans holds something like 13 qts, if you could get it all out of the torque converter and cooler lines, etc. But by dropping the fluid passively 5-6 quarts at a time, you will remedy the shudder without a lot of expense.
     
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  9. fjdemon

    fjdemon SILVER Star

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    Mine feels pretty good at the moment. Good to hear it worked out for you as well. I never do anything at the dealership, but I think the transmission service is worth it. How much would 13 quarts of WS cost you anyway? For the time and equipment needed I’m okay spending $220-280 depending on where you go. I’ll probably do it again and 30,000 miles
     
  10. BMThiker

    BMThiker I aim to misbehave Moderator SILVER Star

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    Find your favorite online parts dealership and you can get the Toyota WS fluid for about $9/qt. Like I said I only did 5-6 qts twice. So I'm roughly $110 in fluid plus the time under the rig. Also, I have heard that some of these A750s have a slightly shorter check fill tube, so the advice was to fill until the check fill plug dribbles. Close it up, then add 1/4 of a quart to the fill hole.
     
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  11. fjdemon

    fjdemon SILVER Star

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    I was under the impression you had to check it when the transmission hit approximately 122 degrees F. Only then will you have the true expanded fluid level. Does this sound correct?

    I might just do the pan and filter next time like you. I just was under the impression getting the level correct was somewhat of a pain in the ass.
     
  12. fjdemon

    fjdemon SILVER Star

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    Question for all you FJ Cruiser veterans. I'm looking to line x the roof. Should I remove the channel molding trim pieces? I want to make sure it's super clean and seals. I think it will be find without it, just want to get some opinions.

    Thanks!
     
  13. fjdemon

    fjdemon SILVER Star

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    So the guy I purchased my rig from said he was running conventional oil. Odd considering how well he took care of it. I swapped it to Mobil 1 5w30 synthetic today with a stock Toyota filter.

    The air cleaner was full of junk so I swapped that out with a Fram filter and cleaned all the air duct and housing.

    I found a plug in the edge of one of the tire treads a few days after my purchase so ended up ordering one Dunlop AT20 tire from Amazon. The tire shop said the set was so new it wouldn't have any affect on it if I swapped it out with a new tire. I was concerned they would be just worn enough to not be able to do that...

    The roof rack mastic washer and bolt set arrived so I'm debating on just swapping those out vs having the line x done and letting them replace them. I'm kind of OCD with my stuff so I fear they will mess it up somehow. I'm sure it will be okay in the end. I also got in the new antenna rubber piece since mine was looking a little weathered and cracked.

    I'm waiting on the gas tank straps, a couple nuts for the top cover on the engine (one was missing) some cowl clips.

    How much should a windshield run? Is there anything special with that front trim piece? I have read various things saying it has to be replaced if it's taken off.
     
  14. BMThiker

    BMThiker I aim to misbehave Moderator SILVER Star

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    Most windshield repair shops will wreck the top trim. It's metal not plastic so it's hard not to. I think I paid around $250 for my last one. Trim and clips were $125-ish from online source.
     
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  15. fjdemon

    fjdemon SILVER Star

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    I was quoted $360ish up here in the D.C. area, but I am assuming for that price they are including the trim and clips. I'll have to call around and ask that specifically. Good to know a ballpark on the pricing. Thanks!
     
  16. GWcruiser

    GWcruiser

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    My truck shimmy was tire / steering rack related, and fixed with a precision wheel balance. Just make sure whoever is doing the work has the LUG centric wheel adapter. Cone adpaters do not work. Be aware there is also a SB on the power steering rack that also causes a steering wobble. It exacerbates any tire imbalance.

    Oil in the FJ should be 0-20W full Synth. At least that's what my 2012 takes.

    I generally run 89 octane name brand fuel, and sometimes 93. Pretty sure I've also used 87, and can't say I've ever noticed a difference.

    FJ windshields are rock magnets. I carry a windshield chip repair kit or two. I also only let a Toyota Dealer replace the thing when it's too abused. After I installed the Toyota rock guard I have heard a few rocks hit but haven't had to patch the windshield, KOW. So two windshields in about 12,000 miles without; at that point I ordered the guard. I had to do two minor repairs before installing the guard, and now at 37,000 and still only the two repaired chips.

    Range of mileages since new (min and max subject to short or long fills):
    22.98 Max
    14.32 Min
    18.36 Average

    The floor board rails on your FJ look 100% cosmetic (plastic)... you may want to invest in something more substantial if you plan on getting off the road.
     
    Last edited: Jul 31, 2018
  17. fjdemon

    fjdemon SILVER Star

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    Great info! Thanks. My shimmy went away after the trans flush so I'm certain it was the torque converter and contaminated fluid.

    Previous owner on mine owned two gas stations so he ran premium and I'm sticking to that for now.

    What is the toyota rock guard you speak of? What is the cost at toyota to replace the windshield?

    07-09 don't do as well on MPG as 2010+ and mine calls for 5-30

    Yep, the side steps are factory plastic crap. I plan to swap them out, but am still mechanically base lining everything before I get that far.
     
  18. GWcruiser

    GWcruiser

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    Insurance paid for the windshields minus deductable; it was 2012, a long time ago for my memory. I do remember having to fight to have the dealer replace them.

    The guard is a "bug" deflector... but it's been working miracles for my windshield life.
    [​IMG]
    Air Deflector, Hood - Toyota (PT427-35070) | toyotacool
     
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  19. fjdemon

    fjdemon SILVER Star

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    I may have to invest in one. I'm guessing it changes the aerodynamics just enough to deflect rocks and stuff.
     
  20. GWcruiser

    GWcruiser

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    If you asked if I thought it would help save the windshield before I owed it I'd have called the idea crazy. But for whatever reason, it does appear to help. Either it works, or that first year I experienced rocky highways then the following 5 years have had non-rocky highways.

    About all I can say is I remain skeptical it can work that well - but my own experience is hard to for me to challenge ... YMMV ...
     
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