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- #321
New OE Dash pad installed, had to massage the holes a little as the Topnault tub was off just a smidge. Finished the DS jump seat too. Rolled the parts truck inside to start dismantling it.
My kid wanted a Jeep, she's getting a 77 FJ40 LS Swap instead
- Thread starter JKIII FJ40
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- #323
More poser pics. Had all three on our cul-de-sac while I was making room in the garage for the 4th one (parts truck). The last two pics are of the wife after driving from the cul-de-sac to the front of the garage. Her only complaint was about how close the brake pedal was to the gas pedal. Ironically I explained this to her several times on the remaining punch list items as I near the end and get it ready put on the road.
I did leave it out over night and it rained. The soft top doesn't seal well around the OE doors like it does on my 74. It wasn't a lot of water and I kinda expected it.
I did leave it out over night and it rained. The soft top doesn't seal well around the OE doors like it does on my 74. It wasn't a lot of water and I kinda expected it.
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- #324
Removed one leaf from each spring with the hopes of improving the shackle angle. Well, one thing is certain. I can do the whole job in under 1.5 hours. Of course nothing changed on the shackle angles. Hopefully the springs will settle in once I get some time to flex them.
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- #325
Dash install nuances. Love the Dakota Digital dash and am starting to navigate around it to make changes. I was successful at correcting my fuel gauge. Where I am struggling now is the speedometer is off by 4mph and it fluctuates and sometime just stops working. I am also trying to get the water temp gauge to work, I had it matching the ECM yesterday and now I cant seem to get it back to what I had.
The last fun thing to do is to figure out two codes (P0170 & P0174). More things to check and rule out.
The last fun thing to do is to figure out two codes (P0170 & P0174). More things to check and rule out.
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- #326
Time to go down the rabbit hole. Been getting a P0171 & P0174 code, checked a bunch of stuff (basically everything listed online), even sprayed water and had no change in RPMs. So, I borrowed my fuel pressure gauge off of the 40 and the fuel pressure was good. Check all around and didn't find any vacuum leaks. Well, just for giggles I decided to replace the PVC to intake hose (Amazon had them here the next day). As it turns out, there was a split on the backside that went un-noticed. After replacing it I haven't seen any new codes, of course I haven't driven it any where lately.
The Dakota Digital dash is still giving me the business. Randomly the temp will read high on the readout but the gauge is under actual temp. The speedometer still fluctuates and sometimes stops at 20mph.
I got it registered and took it in on a rainy day for the annual inspection, GTG for another year. I think the tech likes when I bring in the old stuff sometimes, he gave me a compliment on how nice it was.
The Dakota Digital dash is still giving me the business. Randomly the temp will read high on the readout but the gauge is under actual temp. The speedometer still fluctuates and sometimes stops at 20mph.
I got it registered and took it in on a rainy day for the annual inspection, GTG for another year. I think the tech likes when I bring in the old stuff sometimes, he gave me a compliment on how nice it was.
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- #327
Far from done yet and letting the kid drive, of course she's already branded the 4Runner with her own swag. I noticed a fuel smell and the rear heater had a small leak. There was just enough play in the bulkhead fitting that when I filled it up it sloshed around a bit and was enough to leak a little. I pulled the pump out and fixed and resealed the bulkhead fitting. My fuel level float fell off and went behind one of the baffles. I spent time fishing for it and at one point had my whole arm inside. I was able to get it back but noticed with the camera snake going through the old fuel level gauge hole that it wasnt working. RIpped it out several times and was able to get the fuel level arm to register a reading. I put it all back together and the float sunk and stayed at the bottom. I threw in the towel and ordered a marine fuel level pump and a Proffit's adapter for the tank to the marine float pump. I believe the fuel leak is gone and will install the new tank gauge when the adapter comes in.
As for the coolant leak, well i had a spare and in minutes I swapped out the core. Unfortunately my spare core leaked worse than the original one. I will be dropping them off to be checked and repaired this week. The lines are plugged for now. As long as I dont use the heater I should be good.
As for the coolant leak, well i had a spare and in minutes I swapped out the core. Unfortunately my spare core leaked worse than the original one. I will be dropping them off to be checked and repaired this week. The lines are plugged for now. As long as I dont use the heater I should be good.
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- #328
And because I cant leave anything alone, while the seats were out I decided to experiment. The passenger seat was really close to the tuff box and sat a little too high. I decided to tear it apart to see if I could modify or graft it in to a stock seat frame. Well that became a back burner project for now and I purchased new ProCar seats. I made seat frames from the stock seat side rails and got everything reinstalled. At least that was one success this weekend.
Great thread and build for your daughter mate I haven't been on here for a couple of years and just spotted it and had to read through the whole thing from start to finish, I always love reading the LS swaps there's always a few new things you learn along the way when you see how other people have done things. I saw you had a VSS on the speedo output on the transfercase, are you runnning 2 VSS's, the 4L60E VSS for the ECM/TCM and the transfercase vss for the dakota dash? Does your ECM have an input for 4wd for low range for the 4L60E shifting or do you just run it as is, Thanks again for a really enjoyable build thread to read 
- Thread starter
- #330
Its my first LS build and second Land Cruiser build. The BP automotive harness has VSS plug for a sensor that's on the Advance Adapters unit (4L60E to Toyota 34mm Transfer case). I am currently using the Dakota Digital Dash speed sensor on the transfer case (like the stock speed cable). I am having issues with it reading correctly so I am gonna try using the VSS sensor wire to the Dakota Digital Dash to see if it makes a difference. I did previously have my ECM/TCM programmed for my gear ratio and tire size so hopefully it works. The TCM provides input for the 4L60E. I dont have a sensor on my transfer case so I wasnt able to hook up the sensor for the dash. I use the lever (like the stock set up) to engage/disengage.Great thread and build for your daughter mate I haven't been on here for a couple of years and just spotted it and had to read through the whole thing from start to finish, I always love reading the LS swaps there's always a few new things you learn along the way when you see how other people have done things. I saw you had a VSS on the speedo output on the transfercase, are you runnning 2 VSS's, the 4L60E VSS for the ECM/TCM and the transfercase vss for the dakota dash? Does your ECM have an input for 4wd for low range for the 4L60E shifting or do you just run it as is, Thanks again for a really enjoyable build thread to read
Thanks for the compliment, its been a learning experience. The main goal was to capture how I put it together so when I am old and senile I can look back to see what I did to help fix what ever breaks. The other goal is to cover things missed in other build threads I had to figure it out.
I've run for 16 years without a VSS on my LS FJ75 and haven't really needed it, the guy in the US that originally configured the ECM for me did a really good job on controlling the idle I've never had stall problems from no VSS input and I'm also manual trans so don't have to worry about shift points but have recently gone down the VSS path, mostly so the ECM can use the lean cruise tables on the highway my truck uses the same amount of fuel when I'm coasting downhill with no load on as it does towing my FJ40 on the trailer uphill 
so I'm keen to see better economy and also my throttle can occasionally get a little bit twitchy or surge a little at low rpm 1st or 2nd gear just on or off the throttle, not always but just occasionally the ECM gets a bit confused because there's no speed input coming in and it's not sure if I'm trying to drive or if or if it needs to try and pull the engine down to a 500rpm idle. I've got a Stealth (Jag's that run) 40 pulse VSS that bolts onto the back of the transfercase input shaft, the reluctor wheel is threaded and replaces the nut on the end of the input shaft, the whole unit is 68mm deep and I haven't got that much room to play with as I've got a tube stiffener crossmember directly behind my transfer case as you did so I'm going to have to get the VSS hub milled down including the reluctor wheel to lose about 30mm to get it to clear the tube crossmember, it gets a bit harder than that also as I have to drop the back of the gearbox down to fit the reluctor and hub and may have to drop the engine down as well as it's a pretty tight clearance with the firewall. In the interim I've installed a Dakota pass through VSS onto the speedo output, its an 8 pulse VSS but reduces to a 3 pulse per trans revolution by the time you multiply it by the speedo gear reduction (6/16 speedo drive). Despite running a low resolution VSS, 3 pulse vs 40 pulse, I reprogrammed the ECM for the correct speed sensor pulses per mile, VSS pulse per trans revolution, diff ratio and trans shaft revolutions per mile and on the OBD live data output to my laptop its showing up very close to what the speedo is reading, I had to do a bit of modifying of the toyota speedo cable end and the short input cable from the VSS into the toyota speedo drive to make it work with the GM pass through VSS
so I'm keen to see better economy and also my throttle can occasionally get a little bit twitchy or surge a little at low rpm 1st or 2nd gear just on or off the throttle, not always but just occasionally the ECM gets a bit confused because there's no speed input coming in and it's not sure if I'm trying to drive or if or if it needs to try and pull the engine down to a 500rpm idle. I've got a Stealth (Jag's that run) 40 pulse VSS that bolts onto the back of the transfercase input shaft, the reluctor wheel is threaded and replaces the nut on the end of the input shaft, the whole unit is 68mm deep and I haven't got that much room to play with as I've got a tube stiffener crossmember directly behind my transfer case as you did so I'm going to have to get the VSS hub milled down including the reluctor wheel to lose about 30mm to get it to clear the tube crossmember, it gets a bit harder than that also as I have to drop the back of the gearbox down to fit the reluctor and hub and may have to drop the engine down as well as it's a pretty tight clearance with the firewall. In the interim I've installed a Dakota pass through VSS onto the speedo output, its an 8 pulse VSS but reduces to a 3 pulse per trans revolution by the time you multiply it by the speedo gear reduction (6/16 speedo drive). Despite running a low resolution VSS, 3 pulse vs 40 pulse, I reprogrammed the ECM for the correct speed sensor pulses per mile, VSS pulse per trans revolution, diff ratio and trans shaft revolutions per mile and on the OBD live data output to my laptop its showing up very close to what the speedo is reading, I had to do a bit of modifying of the toyota speedo cable end and the short input cable from the VSS into the toyota speedo drive to make it work with the GM pass through VSS
last pic
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- #333
Unfortunately because its nice out, I wont be able to see whats the difference (Dakota Digital speed sensor) or VSS input for speed until a later time. Yard work calls and if I plan on having a happy wife (aka happy life) the change will be some evening hopefully this week.
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- #334
As expected, a couple of steps forward and a step backward too. I solved a couple of issues and now only two left to solve. Here is the run down:
- Issue #1, (Solved) rear heater core leak. There is a radiator shop local that about to close for good, luckily they were able to repair my two cores. I installed one and no visible leaks. In Pic #1, I rolled the sides up to make it easier to change the heater core. Pic #2 are the repaired heater cores, now I have a spare. Pic #3 is the post install.
- Issue #2, (Solved) Soft top rear bar retention strap. Basically it was one big loop and needed to be trimmed up. I made a loop for the top and for the bottom and now I can tension it with one hand vs holding the loop while I shortened it. As the sides were up, it made perfect sense to knock out the straps.
- Issue #3, (Solved) while driving it would cut out, even on the smallest bumps. This was a fun one as I checked all of the LS connections with no avail. This one kinda was maddening as I checked everything several times and couldn't find the issue. On my last trip it was really bad and I rechecked all fuses and wires with no affect on it. I checked the 40 fuse panel and when I removed the cover the engine almost stalled. I figured out the wire blocks on the back side of the stock fuse were just loose enough that by me moving the wires was enough to kill it. With a small screw driver I was able to get some tension on the plugs so they were more secure. After tightening them up I was able to test drive it and it kept running over all sorts of bumps.
- Issue #4, (Solved) I needed tools and wanted a lot to bring with me should they be needed. I found a husky bag with a wide enough top for almost everything. Now both my 77 and 74 have huge tool bags in the cabs in the event I break down.
- Issue #5, (Solved) After driving it around for a while I came back to the house and noticed it was leaking oil. We it turns out I am mildly retarded. When I plumbed the trans cooler lines to the radiator I used push lock fittings but not push lock hose. So when it got nice and toasty it started to leak. I was able to unhook the hoses and get them up and out where I was able install fuel injection hose clamps. Fired it up and no leaks.
- Issue #6, (Not Solved) My speedometer is possessed or something. I tried hooking up the speed sensor from the BP harness coming from the ECU. I got a signal but it wasnt accurate enough to run the speedometer. I reinstalled the speed sensor wires and the same issue persists. Going down the road it either reads 10-12 mph or starts fluctuating all over the place. I checked all of the connections and didnt see anything. Its drivable and I have the Wolfbox rearview mirror camera with GPS to give me an idea what my speed is. Its not a show stopper but it surely is an ankle biter and I want to fix it.
- Issue #7, (Not Solved) The springs havent broken in yet so its still on the bouncy side. Online I read it takes 250 miles to get them to settle in, I will see if I can weigh them down as well this week.
Big update, the outstanding issues are slowing shrinking away.
- Issue #1, (Solved) rear heater core leak. There is a radiator shop local that about to close for good, luckily they were able to repair my two cores. I installed one and no visible leaks. In Pic #1, I rolled the sides up to make it easier to change the heater core. Pic #2 are the repaired heater cores, now I have a spare. Pic #3 is the post install.
- Issue #2, (Solved) Soft top rear bar retention strap. Basically it was one big loop and needed to be trimmed up. I made a loop for the top and for the bottom and now I can tension it with one hand vs holding the loop while I shortened it. As the sides were up, it made perfect sense to knock out the straps.
- Issue #3, (Solved) while driving it would cut out, even on the smallest bumps. This was a fun one as I checked all of the LS connections with no avail. This one kinda was maddening as I checked everything several times and couldn't find the issue. On my last trip it was really bad and I rechecked all fuses and wires with no affect on it. I checked the 40 fuse panel and when I removed the cover the engine almost stalled. I figured out the wire blocks on the back side of the stock fuse were just loose enough that by me moving the wires was enough to kill it. With a small screw driver I was able to get some tension on the plugs so they were more secure. After tightening them up I was able to test drive it and it kept running over all sorts of bumps.
- Issue #4, (Solved) I needed tools and wanted a lot to bring with me should they be needed. I found a husky bag with a wide enough top for almost everything. Now both my 77 and 74 have huge tool bags in the cabs in the event I break down.
- Issue #5, (Solved) After driving it around for a while I came back to the house and noticed it was leaking oil. We it turns out I am mildly retarded. When I plumbed the trans cooler lines to the radiator I used push lock fittings but not push lock hose. So when it got nice and toasty it started to leak. I was able to unhook the hoses and get them up and out where I was able install fuel injection hose clamps. Fired it up and no leaks.
- Issue #6, (Not Solved) My speedometer is possessed or something. I tried hooking up the speed sensor from the BP harness coming from the ECU. I got a signal but it wasnt accurate enough to run the speedometer. I reinstalled the speed sensor wires and the same issue persists. Going down the road it either reads 10-12 mph or starts fluctuating all over the place. I checked all of the connections and didnt see anything. Its drivable and I have the Wolfbox rearview mirror camera with GPS to give me an idea what my speed is. Its not a show stopper but it surely is an ankle biter and I want to fix it.
- Issue #7, (Not Solved) The springs havent broken in yet so its still on the bouncy side. Online I read it takes 250 miles to get them to settle in, I will see if I can weigh them down as well this week.
Big update, the outstanding issues are slowing shrinking away.
So I've been running without a VSS on my LM7 swap for a year, the only quirky thing is that sometimes when I start it the idle goes pretty high for a few seconds, then settles down. Driving dynamics are great.
I recently added the jags that run VSS in the hopes that it would somehow address that (and also to get it more "factory" and in the event I get it tuned properly, but when I hooked it up it actually messed up the way it drove as it seemed like I had a sticky throttle and it would hold RPM after you let off the gas.
Definitely an unnerving feeling.
So I disconnected the plug at the VSS.
I haven't had it tuned yet, just the base map it came with when I got eBay ECU.
I'm not too worried about fuel mileage, I would just like to optimize how it runs and drives.
I recently added the jags that run VSS in the hopes that it would somehow address that (and also to get it more "factory" and in the event I get it tuned properly, but when I hooked it up it actually messed up the way it drove as it seemed like I had a sticky throttle and it would hold RPM after you let off the gas.
Definitely an unnerving feeling.
So I disconnected the plug at the VSS.
I haven't had it tuned yet, just the base map it came with when I got eBay ECU.
I'm not too worried about fuel mileage, I would just like to optimize how it runs and drives.
When I added my VSS I didn't know what changes had been done to my ECM to stabilize the idle so I started with a spare ECM and loaded a default tune into it and programmed all the VATs, DTC, Emissions, Manual Trans and VSS calibrations etc into it myself so there were no surprises with unknown settings or configuration, I wanted everything set up close to stock as possible for best drivability, so far it all runs fine and show's a pretty accurate speed when my laptops hooked up to the OBD port, my speedo is 41 years old so the VSS may be more accurate than my aging old speedo is. The first couple of starts were a bit rough until the ECM worked out where the IAC pintle position was and got itself calibrated and its all started, idled and ran good since then.
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- #337
The kids first drive, she liked it.
Also installed a new fuel sender with Proffit's adapter and boat float gauge. Its nice to have a working fuel gauge.
Still working through the the speedometer issues. Its still fluctuating and the odometer is way off for the traveled distance. I sent off an email to Dakota Digital, fingers crossed we can get it resolved.
Also installed a new fuel sender with Proffit's adapter and boat float gauge. Its nice to have a working fuel gauge.
Still working through the the speedometer issues. Its still fluctuating and the odometer is way off for the traveled distance. I sent off an email to Dakota Digital, fingers crossed we can get it resolved.
Oh, good - she's smiling.
What a relief!
What a relief!
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- #339
Dug a little deeper (like an endless rabbit hole) in to my dash issues. The speedometer would fluctuate and odometer was way off. I re-ran the autocalc on a measured course and nothing changed. I reached out to Dakota Digital and they gave me some suggestions to diagnose. The tech said to try and put a drill on the sender to see if it would register and nothing happened. I checked and the sensor has power but was unable to test the signal wire by myself.
In the interim I ordered the BIM module as I read online the module would pull from the ECM and also provide me what gear it was in. Well, if it wasnt for bad luck I wouldnt have any at all. The BIM module picked up from the ECM both the outside air and transmission temp, I lost speed, odometer, tach, and my water temp went to -39. And it would not say what gear I was in except drive. The tech said that they dont always pick up what gear it was in and I would need to buy another module to do that, thats not gonna happen. After explaining the issues he said he would need to do some digging as he couldnt figure out what was going on. I did connect the speed wire from the ECM (included in the BP automotive harness) and the speed worked. I re-ran the autocalc and now the speedometer works great and is almost dead on with the GPS. I may need to return the BIM module if they cant figure it out.
In the interim I ordered the BIM module as I read online the module would pull from the ECM and also provide me what gear it was in. Well, if it wasnt for bad luck I wouldnt have any at all. The BIM module picked up from the ECM both the outside air and transmission temp, I lost speed, odometer, tach, and my water temp went to -39. And it would not say what gear I was in except drive. The tech said that they dont always pick up what gear it was in and I would need to buy another module to do that, thats not gonna happen. After explaining the issues he said he would need to do some digging as he couldnt figure out what was going on. I did connect the speed wire from the ECM (included in the BP automotive harness) and the speed worked. I re-ran the autocalc and now the speedometer works great and is almost dead on with the GPS. I may need to return the BIM module if they cant figure it out.
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- #340
I have had a check engine light that would appear on deceleration, both P0171 and P0174 would pop up. I would clear the codes and sometimes they would come back and if it was really warm it would not. My best guess was the intake manifold gaskets needed to be changed. I decided to tackle that today. When I pulled the intake I found a nice surprise, what a mess. I got it all cleaned up and new gaskets installed and put everything back together.
While I was in there I decided to upgrade my fan as the other wasn't moving as much air IMO (1300 vs 1600 CFM). Of course nothing is ever cut and dry. The new one was about and inch too deep. So I took the new and old one apart and then reassembled it to make it work with the new motor and old shroud to give me the clearance I needed.
In the last two pics you will see how crusty the gaskets were, I am guessing the oxidation created just enough of a gap in the intake that was enough to trip the CEL.
I fired it up and the codes went away after reconnecting the battery. I do have some smoking from the exhaust and I kinda expected that. The plenum and runners were oily and crusty and I cleaned as much as I could but probably washed some crud down in to the cylinders. It started clearing up after about 5 minutes.
Took it for a spin and the code did not come back. The smoking started getting better too. Of course I hosed everything off and then noticed some water in the cab. I will investigate that one at a latter day.
While I was in there I decided to upgrade my fan as the other wasn't moving as much air IMO (1300 vs 1600 CFM). Of course nothing is ever cut and dry. The new one was about and inch too deep. So I took the new and old one apart and then reassembled it to make it work with the new motor and old shroud to give me the clearance I needed.
In the last two pics you will see how crusty the gaskets were, I am guessing the oxidation created just enough of a gap in the intake that was enough to trip the CEL.
I fired it up and the codes went away after reconnecting the battery. I do have some smoking from the exhaust and I kinda expected that. The plenum and runners were oily and crusty and I cleaned as much as I could but probably washed some crud down in to the cylinders. It started clearing up after about 5 minutes.
Took it for a spin and the code did not come back. The smoking started getting better too. Of course I hosed everything off and then noticed some water in the cab. I will investigate that one at a latter day.