My 1983 SR5 Long Bed Build.

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I have been spinning around an idea for the rear lights. I do not want to use a converter for a single bulb stop and turn light. So I am considering removing the flasher before the turn switch and jumping a hot wire to the turn switch. Then installing two flashers on each direction wire after the switch. I have a couple double throw relays that will will switch off the brake light and open for the signial. They will be energized by the wire before the flashers. I hope this makes sense and let me know what you think.

Here is my chicken scratch.

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Not sure about that. Have you considered just running dual lights back there? You could have one that's dual element for the running light/brake light and one for the turns. Then you could just wire it straight into what you have without having to jump through hoops.
 
Are the rears LED's or just not set up for double filaments?

If I followed you train of thought correctly, I think it would work. You are basically suing the signals pre and post flasher relay to energize the the other relays to run turn signals and hazard lights, correct?

Only thing is I would be curious as to how having the extra relays will affect the overall signal from the switch. Since you are using a relay behind a relay. Also, will it need to be a "better" relay since it will be opening and closing alot?

I am not very savy on electrical matters so those may be dumb questions but at least I am listening....
 
All of this is because I do not like the look of a red and amber set of lights in the back.

The rears are double filaments. I am not to fond of the LED lights, just do not like the way they look.

The relays will energize with a constant signal. The signal will be tapped before the flashers. So the relays only see a flashing 12v is on the switch side of the relay. The relay does not open and close each time the flashers go off. As the relay is energized the switch moves from one point to another. The other point is to allow the flashing 12v to the light and cuts the constant 12v from the brake switch.

The reason the single flasher is removed, is because the turn switch receives a flashing 12v and distributes it to one side or the other. I want the signal to be a constant 12v to energized one or the other relay. The flashers will change the constant 12v to a timed off and on 12v.
I hope this helps
 
Nice work on the bed.

Are you set on only one light per side? You mentioned not liking red/amber combo but why not two reds.

It sounds like your idea would work fine. I personally would not like the added complexity for lighting.
 
Yea I like the clean look of the two lights in the rear.
Thanks for the bed complement.

It has been my experience with converters, is they dim and bright the light for a flashing blinker and they are not that bright. My experience is about 20 years old though. I do not know if they have improved the units since then. What I am looking for is a clean turn signal that a trailer can be added to and still be a clean bright signal.
Other experience with converters is welcome, please include brands if you think they are worthy.
 
A change in plans. I worked out a way to use the stock flasher with two double pole double through relays. I picked up a couple from radio shack with holders. they cost 27.00 with tax. They have 10 amp contacts.

Here is the chicken scratch

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...and the relays with soldered and tagged wires. A couple of those will be combined and most will be much shorter.

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So based on your sketch are you eliminating the oe relay and just using your double setup? Or is the "blinker switch" that relay and you are using it to control the new ones?

Sorry again for the dumb questions, just trying to keep up with the class.
 
It works like this. Power to the flasher then the flasher sends its converted voltage to the relays. The relays are open so nothing happens. When the relays are energized the flasher will send its flashing voltage through the relays to the lights. When the relays are not energized brake light voltage is sent through the relays because they closed for the brakes. A dpdt relay has one coil and two switches this allows me to put the front lights on the other switch. I simply ran a wire from the flasher to the open side of the relay and connected a wire from the front lights to the other contact.
So now when the relays are not energized voltage from the brake switch goes through the relays to the lights. If one signal is set with the brake switch on, one relay is energized and the brake light is shut off and the flasher sends current to the rear, front and turn indicator light.
 
I finished installing the relays and they worked perfectly. I did discover that i did not wire in one of the fusable links. It is an easy fix though
 
I just found out the build will be off for about a month. I have a knee injury that is requiring at least a week of no work and 4 weeks of light duty. Wife said if I can't go to work, I can't work on the Toyota. It will suck to see her set there with no attention (the truck).
 
Before I go in for the knee stuff I thought I would get a little done.
I bought a receiver tube and built a bracket that I welded to the rear of the bed. I also used a couple pieces of angle iron to bolt to the rear cross member. Here are the pics.

Under the bed.
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Rear skirt view.

Rearviewreceiver.jpg
 
Here she is today.
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Things to do.
Cut a hole in the floor and mount gas fill tube.
Install spare tire mount and build cone, disk and handles to mount the tire.
Build and install high lift jack mounts.
Build and install shovel mount.
Build and install light bar, then install lights.
Lastly paint the bed black.
Then I will paint the cab, build a bumper, finish the propane, and work on the interior.
 
Not much to do but, I can still type. So I made a list of things left to do to the truck.

Hook up license plate lights
Cut hole for gas fill
Install spare tire mount.
Install flood wide beam lights on bed
Paint bed.
Paint cab
Install new window.
Install Round Eye head lights.
Install seat belts
Make dash bezel.
Install gauges
Drill and install O2 sensor bung.
Paint left dash bezel.
Stain side panels.
Install side panels.
Have carpet made for side panels
Touch up inside of cab.
Install seats
Install shift levers
Fill transmission and transfer cases
Build rock sliders
Build battery mounts and hold downs.
Install wenches
Wire in batteries and winches.
Install air tank
Plumb and wire in air compressor, arbs, and tank.
Install propane tanks.
Plumb and wire propane system.
Bleed brakes and clutch
Fill front Diff
 
I worked more on the sliders with little to show. I cut all pieces to mount and welded one complete. I messed up on one measurement and will have to cut one of the legs to the frame off and make it longer. Other than that it is fits well.

This is a pic of the right side I have not installed the last leg. It is longer and has a mitered cut for a frame bend.

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This is the finished left side, sort of. I have to cut off the mitered leg and make one longer about 1/4 inch.

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Here is a mock up fit of the slider. I made them long enough to support the batteries behind the cab.

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I finished the other slider. I will install them after I paint the cab which is after I finish the bumper, tire mount and propane bottle installs. I will paint the bumper,slider, bed and cab at the same time.

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I also installed the gas tank tube.

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Lines to tank.

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... and the last thing I did was plate the area for the front spring hanger.

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... for this

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Good progress. I have a bumper that somebody started to build off of one of those TG plates. I say started because they didn't do a very good job and I need to clean it up and fill the gap between the "top" of the bumper and the bottom of the grill.

What is the plan for color? Black and tan?
 
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