- Thread starter
- #21
pics
I found this gem... but does not give me all the answers.
I found this gem... but does not give me all the answers.
Muddin' ** Family Style
- Thread starter 2fpower
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #22
manual operation
Thanks, I followed the links 5 deep and found much about this, but no pictures were able to be seen -- must be too old. Basics sound like take off the limit switch and then you can manually pry over the geared mechanism. I will unplug it to make sure it is not hot.
I also read that you can connect a nine volt battery to run the motor if needed. COOL.
I should also pull the entire motor out and recheck the upper harness, I know it got pulled pretty hard, so it may have a break in the wire.
Cheers!
Thanks, I followed the links 5 deep and found much about this, but no pictures were able to be seen -- must be too old. Basics sound like take off the limit switch and then you can manually pry over the geared mechanism. I will unplug it to make sure it is not hot.
I also read that you can connect a nine volt battery to run the motor if needed. COOL.
I should also pull the entire motor out and recheck the upper harness, I know it got pulled pretty hard, so it may have a break in the wire.
Cheers!
Just in case you aren't in posession of a EWD you can clearly read the color codes on the wires:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-...a-land-cruiser-electrical-wiring-diagram.html
I looked in my hard copy '97 EWD & like you're seeing, a bulk of the wires are blue w/ yellow, black, green traces going to the motor itself. Solid blue & the green trace blue are the 2 going through the motor itself, the black trace & the yellow trace go to the switches.
As far as manually unlocking the diff, there's 2 ways - either pulling the whole actuator & sliding the rider sleeve out of the splines manually, then cycle the actuator out of axle to match, or to simply put a 9v battery on the motor using a few short wires on the connections after pulling the socket from the wiring harness off the actuator.
Both methods above have both tires off the ground to relieve any bind that would prevent easy travel, also try & rotate/rock back & forth the PS tire if the 1st shot with the 9v does nothing in either polarity "jumpstart".
I'd have to go re-read what I once knew from memory, but if you search using my name I answered this question for someone else awhile ago - keywords to search would be "using a 9v to cycle an actuator / locker" -or somethig to that effect. Basically some people jumpstart old actuators with "dead spots" by doing this, so you hit it with a 9v & if you get nothing within 2-3 seconds, then reverse polarity & try it again.
Seems like the most "money in the bank" solution for you is to buy a new subharness from the firewall connection to the actuator & that way you'll be 100% the wires are in the right places & you'll get color codes that match a EWD book.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-...a-land-cruiser-electrical-wiring-diagram.html
I looked in my hard copy '97 EWD & like you're seeing, a bulk of the wires are blue w/ yellow, black, green traces going to the motor itself. Solid blue & the green trace blue are the 2 going through the motor itself, the black trace & the yellow trace go to the switches.
As far as manually unlocking the diff, there's 2 ways - either pulling the whole actuator & sliding the rider sleeve out of the splines manually, then cycle the actuator out of axle to match, or to simply put a 9v battery on the motor using a few short wires on the connections after pulling the socket from the wiring harness off the actuator.
Both methods above have both tires off the ground to relieve any bind that would prevent easy travel, also try & rotate/rock back & forth the PS tire if the 1st shot with the 9v does nothing in either polarity "jumpstart".
I'd have to go re-read what I once knew from memory, but if you search using my name I answered this question for someone else awhile ago - keywords to search would be "using a 9v to cycle an actuator / locker" -or somethig to that effect. Basically some people jumpstart old actuators with "dead spots" by doing this, so you hit it with a 9v & if you get nothing within 2-3 seconds, then reverse polarity & try it again.
Seems like the most "money in the bank" solution for you is to buy a new subharness from the firewall connection to the actuator & that way you'll be 100% the wires are in the right places & you'll get color codes that match a EWD book.
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- Thread starter
- #24
Linus- thanks for the link, but I could not get it to open here at work. I will retry at home.
I did find your post yesterday about running the motor with a 9 volt battery. That is awesome, except my wires are now soldered in, so I don't know the order.
I think I kept a drawing of where the wires originally went on the plug. I will try to locate that. it will be VERY helpful if I did not trash that!
The problem is that we took off the connection at the motor, and soldered the harness in, so a new harness will not help at this point. I will take it off and swap in all new wires.
I did find your post yesterday about running the motor with a 9 volt battery. That is awesome, except my wires are now soldered in, so I don't know the order.
I think I kept a drawing of where the wires originally went on the plug. I will try to locate that. it will be VERY helpful if I did not trash that!
The problem is that we took off the connection at the motor, and soldered the harness in, so a new harness will not help at this point. I will take it off and swap in all new wires.
2fpower - I just doublechecked the link, and it opened for me (didn't do that yesterday, so it was good to check)
So are you now gettting results putting power to the leads for the motor, whatever color wire you have running to them?
If not, what is the current problem(s) you are having?
So are you now gettting results putting power to the leads for the motor, whatever color wire you have running to them?
If not, what is the current problem(s) you are having?
- Thread starter
- #26
Biggest problem is work.... can't find time to get out and get under the rig!!!!
As Annie said, TOMORROW, TOMORROW!
As Annie said, TOMORROW, TOMORROW!
I'm reading this sentence and think that you mean it "IS" locked? Just want to make sure that you found your problem? You put it up on jackstands and verified that they were locked correct?
I can't help with the locker wiring but if it is not the locker will see what I can come up with regarding the steering pump.
Your working on an LX, correct? I remember reading at some point here on the forum that wiring colors may not be the same between the two iterations of the 80. You may need to get a hold of an LX450 EWD. I can't say for sure as I have absolutely no experience working with wiring but I do recall reading that and, as I have an LX450 as well, I made a mental note. Maybe someone else can chime in who's better informed.
Edit: Vindicated! See post 108 https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/15223-fzj80-vs-lx450-6.html#post5307260
Edit: Vindicated! See post 108 https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/15223-fzj80-vs-lx450-6.html#post5307260
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- Thread starter
- #29
WOW. Thanks a lot ralphy! I will put a real time help needed thread on this.
- Thread starter
- #30
My wiring colors were correct FYI.
Got it done!!
Thanks to all for advice.
Got it done!!
Thanks to all for advice.