More - crank, no start…and OBD codes? **92 FJ80** (1 Viewer)

[BlutoF15]

Lots of threads, but I can’t seem to find one that matches what I’ve got in the details.

Ive had the FJ for two years (1992.) No starting issues under any conditions. Then, here it is. I go out to start - cranks fine/normal but no start. CEL on with switch on. Obviously this is a cold start issue, most things I can fino are about hot engines after shutting off. What am I looking at here?

As an aside, I jumped E1 and TE1, the CEL just flashes continuously. It seems faster than the “no codes” flash but that could just be paranoia. Is the truck telling me something or am I reading too much into that?

 

[Malleus]

 

[BlutoF15]

It just flashes continuously. No pause to indicate a two digit code, the flash is a continuous rate. Appears to be “no codes.” So I at least have that going for me

 

[BlutoF15]

That said, I’m lost on the no start. From what I can tell from reading, with these symptoms it’s *not* the EFI relay but I swapped it anyway. No difference.

 

[jonheld]

That said, I’m lost on the no start. From what I can tell from reading, with these symptoms it’s *not* the EFI relay but I swapped it anyway. No difference.

Have you verified spark?
Have you verified fuel?

 

[BlutoF15]

I haven’t. Well, other than new distributor, wires, and plugs (all before the problem started.) I’ll probably put the new fuel filter in it since I already have it in my box of OEM parts and I can’t verify how old the current one is. After that, it’ll have to go to a mech unless I find a mechanical culprit. I do lots of stuff, electrical isn’t one. I wish it were, since that will also involve a tow truck. But, here we are.

 

[Malleus]

FWIW, swapping parts is less practical than testing them. Here's the list (from the 1992 FSM):

 

[Malleus]

I haven’t. Well, other than new distributor, wires, and plugs (all before the problem started.) I’ll probably put the new fuel filter in it since I already have it in my box of OEM parts and I can’t verify how old the current one is. After that, it’ll have to go to a mech unless I find a mechanical culprit. I do lots of stuff, electrical isn’t one. I wish it were, since that will also involve a tow truck. But, here we are.

I'd skip the fuel filter (or at the very least, put it off until the end of the troubleshooting exercise); Florida isn't Africa. There's little chance that's your problem.

 

[Malleus]

Here are the troubleshooting sections you need (I didn't include compression test; if it was running that's unlikely). It'd be a good idea to download the complete manual. You need RM283E.

 

[BlutoF15]

Huge thanks for the effort. I’ll start poring over everything, and definitely put off the fuel filter until needed. That seems less than enjoyable, although if it were the single fault certainly an easy fix. (As far as complexity.)

I have a hard copy of the FSM, but thanks for the point outs. Thus far I haven’t been a fan of it but there are definitely some gems in there. I’ll see what turns up! We’ll, that’s within my capability and tool set.

 

[Malleus]

There's nothing in either troubleshooting procedure that's beyond simple; you just need to read first. And don't cookbook your way through it; read the whole thing and have it available while you're working.

You need only the tools in the tool kit. Yes, sockets and swivels and extensions and air compressors make life more fun... Point being, you don't need thousands of dollars worth of tools to fix this.

I like the digital copies for two reasons: 1) they're searchable (yeah, I know the paper copy is, but you have to read it to search it - enjoyable though it may be, it's not fast at all), and 2) I can print pages to use while I'm working and don't have to worry about keeping them clean.

 

[Malleus]

Not a fan of that fuel filter placement...

 

[BlutoF15]

There's nothing in either troubleshooting procedure that's beyond simple; you just need to read first. And don't cookbook your way through it; read the whole thing and have it available while you're working.

You need only the tools in the tool kit. Yes, sockets and swivels and extensions and air compressors make life more fun... Point being, you don't need thousands of dollars worth of tools to fix this.

I like the digital copies for two reasons: 1) they're searchable (yeah, I know the paper copy is, but you have to read it to search it - enjoyable though it may be, it's not fast at all), and 2) I can print pages to use while I'm working and don't have to worry about keeping them clean.

Yeah searching is a definite benefit. I’m normally still a paper book guy but your point about clean is a major factor. Not sure my section on front end work will survive another go at it haha.

So I run out of test equipment and tools around step 3. No way to check for Vacuum leaks or spark. No meters, and ironically enough the only memory I have that might explain why I do not do electrical, ever, is….getting shocked with spark plug wires as a kid working on cars lol. It pains me to pay people to work on a vehicle but otherwise I think it’s going to sit here and rot. I’d like to think the air side is all good but other than randomly selecting parts to throw at it I can’t find anything wrong/disconnected/leaking.

 

[BILT4ME]

Sounds to me like the electrical clips on the injectors are not on tight or have broken, giving intermittent issues. It is known that as the age and mileage increases on these that these clips deteriorate and fail.

With a recent rebuild by the PO, that's the first thing I thought of.

Having someone tweak old wiring harnesses, then sell a truck is never a good thing.

 

[BlutoF15]

Rebuild?

 

[BILT4ME]

Rebuild?

Sorry: Confusing two different threads with similar symptoms. I thought this was the one with PO300, 303, 304.

Never mind.

 

[BlutoF15]

@BILT4ME no worries!

So, I have one of two problems. No spark.

Or, my testing method is flawed and the plug doesn’t have sufficient ground when I test and I’m going down the wrong path.

 

[Malleus]

You don't need tools to test for spark, other than to remove the cute center covers and plugs. Place a plug near the lift hook and crank the engine. You'll know immediately whether or not you have a spark. You can use a spare plug, if you don't want to be bothered to remove one.

 

[BlutoF15]

You don't need tools to test for spark, other than to remove the cute center covers and plugs. Place a plug near the lift hook and crank the engine. You'll know immediately whether or not you have a spark. You can use a spare plug, if you don't want to be bothered to remove one.

Yep, that was the attempt. No spark. Well, couldn’t reach the lift hook with the 2 wire so I went with the ac compressor

 

[Malleus]

OK. well now you have identified at least one of the problems.

I'd suggest picking up a cheap multimeter. You can spend $30 or $300, but you won't get any better results, for what you're doing. Either the autoparts store or Home Depot. It has instructions and can't screw anything up in use.

You're at the point where you need to validate the function of the ignition parts.