Mod: Extending range of keyless entry (3 Viewers)

[ipxih12]

my 99 was like @Ayune 's. A+ would do mod again. So glad to have any kind of range with the keyless again finally! Thank you for this!!

 

[Stovations]

Wow I'm glad I found this thread. Mine is so bad it only works if the key is basically pressed up against the glass on the driver side. I will be doing this one

Mine is the same way. And my horn doesn’t beep either. Bought the truck back in March and previous owner had already put new batteries in the fob. Sounds like I have a project to get to. MaybeThanksgiving morning and I’ll really have something to be thankful for that day!

 

[dtpe]

At first I accessed the box that way, by pulling the lower trim and sticking a loooong 10mm extension through the power mirror wire harness hole. When I re-installed, I just dove in from below with a variety of stubby wrenches. It ain't easy no matter how you approach it.

I have a 1999 100 series Land Cruiser with the same receiver box as shown in this thread. I purchased these keys through eBay: 2 for Toyota Land Cruiser 1998-2002 Keyless Remote Key Car Fob HYQ1512V -4C Chip | eBay The programming for the chip worked great and the car starts when I use them. The problem starts when I try to program the fob. The car goes into programming mode after the lock and door sequence, but when I push the buttons on the transmitter key nothing happens. Does this mean the receiver is defective or could it be something else? I'm hoping someone in this forum has more knowledge about this than I do. Thanks for any help that anyone can give me.

 

[Ayune]

I have a 1999 100 series Land Cruiser with the same receiver box as shown in this thread. I purchased these keys through eBay: 2 for Toyota Land Cruiser 1998-2002 Keyless Remote Key Car Fob HYQ1512V -4C Chip | eBay The programming for the chip worked great and the car starts when I use them. The problem starts when I try to program the fob. The car goes into programming mode after the lock and door sequence, but when I push the buttons on the transmitter key nothing happens. Does this mean the receiver is defective or could it be something else? I'm hoping someone in this forum has more knowledge about this than I do. Thanks for any help that anyone can give me.

I would make sure the key fob batteries are fresh. What programming instructions are you using?

 

[dtpe]

I would make sure the key fob batteries are fresh. What programming instructions are you using?

1999 Toyota Land Cruiser Remote Programming

1. Make sure all doors are closed, key is out of ignition.
2. Open Driver’s door
3. Insert key into ignition, then remove it
4. Press LOCK and UNLOCK on the vehicle door lock switch at 1 second intervals 5 times.
5. Close and re-open driver’s door
6. Press LOCK and UNLOCK on the vehicle door lock switch at 1 second intervals 5 times.
7. Insert key into ignition switch
8. Turn the ignition to ON then back to OFF (Do NOT Start or crank engine).
9. Remove Key from ignition
10. Door locks should cycle to confirm entry into programming mode
Press and hold LOCK & UNLOCK together for 1.5 seconds; then press and hold LOCK until the locks cycle
11. Locks should cycle once to confirm programming. If they cycle twice, the programming failed
12. Repeat button procedure to program remaining remotes
13. Close driver’s door. Test remotes.

Brand new keys and red blinking light on keys are working. Everything works with programming until after step 10 when I hold the lock and unlock key buttons and then the lock button. No response. I ordered a new ecu radio receiver as that was the least expensive thing to try, but I don't know what to do if that doesn't solve the problem.

 

[KliersLC]

1999 Toyota Land Cruiser Remote Programming

1. Make sure all doors are closed, key is out of ignition.
2. Open Driver’s door
3. Insert key into ignition, then remove it
4. Press LOCK and UNLOCK on the vehicle door lock switch at 1 second intervals 5 times.
5. Close and re-open driver’s door
6. Press LOCK and UNLOCK on the vehicle door lock switch at 1 second intervals 5 times.
7. Insert key into ignition switch
8. Turn the ignition to ON then back to OFF (Do NOT Start or crank engine).
9. Remove Key from ignition
10. Door locks should cycle to confirm entry into programming mode
Press and hold LOCK & UNLOCK together for 1.5 seconds; then press and hold LOCK until the locks cycle
11. Locks should cycle once to confirm programming. If they cycle twice, the programming failed
12. Repeat button procedure to program remaining remotes
13. Close driver’s door. Test remotes.

Brand new keys and red blinking light on keys are working. Everything works with programming until after step 10 when I hold the lock and unlock key buttons and then the lock button. No response. I ordered a new ecu radio receiver as that was the least expensive thing to try, but I don't know what to do if that doesn't solve the problem.

I had a similar issue--I kept trying it, and it eventually took, even though the truck didn't respond like it was supposed to. I also found that cycling the door lock manually was more reliable as my actuators wouldn't always cycle it all of the way as I got deeper into the process.

Good luck

 

[dtpe]

I had a similar issue--I kept trying it, and it eventually took, even though the truck didn't respond like it was supposed to. I also found that cycling the door lock manually was more reliable as my actuators wouldn't always cycle it all of the way as I got deeper into the process.

Good luck

Thanks. I'm wondering if the batteries aren't strong enough in my new key fobs. Has anyone had a problem with bad batteries in new key fobs? I'll run my OBD II scanner on it as well.

 

[Jczajka]

Thanks. I'm wondering if the batteries aren't strong enough in my new key fobs. Has anyone had a problem with bad batteries in new key fobs? I'll run my OBD II scanner on it as well.

It took me a couple of tries to get it to stick.

Fresh DuraCells always helps. Drug store or house brand batteries don't seem to last as long.

My door lock motors were also worn, so once a replaced those with new eBay motors everything works great with my extended mod.

 

[dtpe]

It took me a couple of tries to get it to stick.

Fresh DuraCells always helps. Drug store or house brand batteries don't seem to last as long.

My door lock motors were also worn, so once a replaced those with new eBay motors everything works great with my extended mod.

Still trying to figure this out. I was able to program the transponder chip in 2 new eBay keys and both start the car. I have not been able to get the fobs attached to the keys to program for locking and unlocking the doors. The 1999 LC 100 series will go in to programming mode after I perform the sequence with the door, key and door lock cycling, but when I press on the lock and unlock button for 1.5 seconds, then press the lock button, no response. I called the dealer with the vin and made sure I had the correct fob. I replaced the receiver door control. Still nothing. Is there another component I should be checking? I really don't want to have to take it to the dealer just to get the fobs to work.

 

[Jczajka]

Still trying to figure this out. I was able to program the transponder chip in 2 new eBay keys and both start the car. I have not been able to get the fobs attached to the keys to program for locking and unlocking the doors. The 1999 LC 100 series will go in to programming mode after I perform the sequence with the door, key and door lock cycling, but when I press on the lock and unlock button for 1.5 seconds, then press the lock button, no response. I called the dealer with the vin and made sure I had the correct fob. I replaced the receiver door control. Still nothing. Is there another component I should be checking? I really don't want to have to take it to the dealer just to get the fobs to work.

It could be just the programing info. @Mauser is the expert on these things. He might have a better idea.

 

[Mauser]

Still trying to figure this out. I was able to program the transponder chip in 2 new eBay keys and both start the car. I have not been able to get the fobs attached to the keys to program for locking and unlocking the doors. The 1999 LC 100 series will go in to programming mode after I perform the sequence with the door, key and door lock cycling, but when I press on the lock and unlock button for 1.5 seconds, then press the lock button, no response. I called the dealer with the vin and made sure I had the correct fob. I replaced the receiver door control. Still nothing. Is there another component I should be checking? I really don't want to have to take it to the dealer just to get the fobs to work.

Probably need to delete the remotes already in the system.

 

[Ayune]

Probably need to delete the remotes already in the system.

True, there may be a limit to the number of keys it can remember. Are keys removed via Techstream or another method?

- @dtpe Do you get the single cycle of the locks to indicate you’ve entered programming mode (step 10?)

- Do you ever get the double-cycling of the locks indicating failed programming? I would imagine that if you enter programming mode the car would at least let you know it didn’t work via double-cycling.

- Another thing I remember is that, whenever the instructions say “Press LOCK and UNLOCK on the vehicle door lock switch”, move the lock button above the door handle instead (see pic below). This positively actuates the drivers door lock sensor switch in case the lock actuator motor isn’t moving the mechanism as well as it should. But if you’re indeed entering program mode this may not matter... can’t hurt to try.

 

[nspindel]

Could the antenna possibly be mounted inside the drivers seatbelt column?

 

[nspindel]

 

[Ayune]

View attachment 2566205

The metal of the B-pillar could block antenna reception from some directions, but the best way is to try it out. You can just string the cable over there and put the antenna under the trim. If it works then work on burying the cable.

 

[nspindel]

The metal of the B-pillar could block the antenna from some directions, but the best way is to try it out.

How much play is there in the factory wiring harness? Am I able to connect it back up without mounting all the way back in whatever godforsaken corner I need to pull it out of?

 

[Ayune]

How much play is there in the factory wiring harness? Am I able to connect it back up without mounting all the way back in whatever godforsaken corner I need to pull it out of?

There is zero play in the factory harness under the dash, that’s why this solution is about relocating the antenna from inside the box. You can add a coax cable as long as you need (many feet) to put the new antenna where it’s most effective. The box ends up getting reinstalled in the original location.

 

[nspindel]

How much play is there in the factory wiring harness? Am I able to connect it back up without mounting all the way back in whatever godforsaken corner I need to pull it out

There is zero play in the factory harness under the dash, that’s why this solution is about relocating the antenna from inside the box. You can add a coax cable as long as you need (many feet) to put the new antenna where it’s most effective. The box ends up getting reinstalled in the original location.

Oh I wasn't thinking of relocating the box without an extension. I was thinking more along the lines of being to have it plugged in temporarily while I test different antenna locations. I ordered the 5m version of the wire for $3 more, rather than the 6.5 foot version. So I've got a lot of length to play with to start out. I was thinking of soldering a lot of length onto the board to start out, then move the antenna around from the stereo compartment, seatbelt compartment, center cupholder area, or maybe inside the rear sidewall somewhere. Once I'm set on where it's going, I'd trim the wire to the adequate length and re-solder onto the board. So I'd be in and out of the thing more than once, it'd be nice if I could temporarily have it just dangling down in the driver footwell rather than jammed back up where it came from. But doesn't sound like that's an option.

By the way, great work on this mod. The Mrs. will be thrilled when this is done!!!

 

[Ayune]

Oh I wasn't thinking of relocating the box without an extension. I was thinking more along the lines of being to have it plugged in temporarily while I test different antenna locations. I ordered the 5m version of the wire for $3 more, rather than the 6.5 foot version. So I've got a lot of length to play with to start out. I was thinking of soldering a lot of length onto the board to start out, then move the antenna around from the stereo compartment, seatbelt compartment, center cupholder area, or maybe inside the rear sidewall somewhere. Once I'm set on where it's going, I'd trim the wire to the adequate length and re-solder onto the board. So I'd be in and out of the thing more than once, it'd be nice if I could temporarily have it just dangling down in the driver footwell rather than jammed back up where it came from. But doesn't sound like that's an option.

By the way, great work on this mod. The Mrs. will be thrilled when this is done!!!

Got it. The box is fairly easy to plug in, but securing its mounting screw may drive you insane.

 

[nspindel]

Isn't that what velcro is for?

Kidding!