Mechanic Fixed Head Gasket, At Completion Tells Me I May Require Engine Rebuild
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If I can go snowboarding with
It's 80 degrees where I'm at sucks
Man I’m sorry to hear that. Is there anymore info beyond what you posted? He installed the new tensioner and what? It still makes the same ticking? Have they recorded it? Could it be the PS pump gear? Something else?The new mechanic called to say he installed the new tensioner with no luck. He is at a loss and ready to give the cruiser back.
My entire family is up in Avon for the yearly ski-trip we do. Looks like for the first time in 24 years I won't be attending. Cheers
80 Life
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- #165
I will get all sorts of videos posted once I get the Cruiser back and we can continue from there.
This mechanic is good, but we don't get all that much accomplished over the phone due to Spanish being his 1st language. It seems the cam sprocket fixed the knocking noise and were still left with the tick. Three mechanics have listened and all have said the noise is definitely in the top end. At this point I am thinking its a piston slapping or these mechanics don't know how to properly tension a 93' Cruiser chain. Back down the rabbit hole I go. Cheers
Drive it now that the major knock is gone. I’ll be headed to GJ from Broomfield tomorrow. I can snag ya is stuff gets wired haha. In my 80 that’s been ticking for 200k miles
Mine is a 93, and did not have a ratchet style tensioner.here is a better pic of the early tensioners
And I was answering the OP's question on how the slippers could have gotten damaged by the previous mechanic as he has a 1993 built truck!
Sounds like you're way ahead of where you were two weeks ago.
From what you've described, you're back to the same state it was in when you were driving it?
80 Life
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- #169
Here are some videos I got.
Engine at idle, (Drivers side, Passenger Side, Center)
Engine with rev. (Drivers Side)
Cold Start RPM's. Jumps to 1500 RPM's in park when cold. Drops back down when thrown in park.
Cold Start RPM's - https://youtube.com/shorts/wVjDuKyh1ks?feature=share
Warm Motor RPM's. Sits at 800 RPM's once warm in park.
Warm Motor RPM's - https://youtube.com/shorts/o2l-H-Nwq9s?feature=share
Engine at idle, (Drivers side, Passenger Side, Center)
Engine with rev. (Drivers Side)
Cold Start RPM's. Jumps to 1500 RPM's in park when cold. Drops back down when thrown in park.
Cold Start RPM's - https://youtube.com/shorts/wVjDuKyh1ks?feature=share
Warm Motor RPM's. Sits at 800 RPM's once warm in park.
Warm Motor RPM's - https://youtube.com/shorts/o2l-H-Nwq9s?feature=share
Good videos.
You could create another that repeats your test where you pulled plug wires, but just focus on the wire(s)/cylinders that the sound changes for. Perhaps do a rev test with the cylinder(s) in question disabled in terms of spark as well.
There's possibly some missed or contradictory evidence sprinkled around in this thread that's misleading me but the information provided earlier in the thread that the noise changed when spark plug wire(s) were removed and now listening to the noise pick up under rev accel and then quieten when the rpms are dropping (and pistons/rods are closer to floating/slack) still has me thinking it's one end or another of a connecting rod that's making the noise. Some possible sources of this noise being discussed in this thread would not change when plug wire(s) were pulled or based on rev accel/decel and I think can be ruled out.
All that said, remote / armchair diagnostics are limited in value and someone actually working on the 80 has a lot more information available and MAY make much more accurate assesments as a result.
You could create another that repeats your test where you pulled plug wires, but just focus on the wire(s)/cylinders that the sound changes for. Perhaps do a rev test with the cylinder(s) in question disabled in terms of spark as well.
There's possibly some missed or contradictory evidence sprinkled around in this thread that's misleading me but the information provided earlier in the thread that the noise changed when spark plug wire(s) were removed and now listening to the noise pick up under rev accel and then quieten when the rpms are dropping (and pistons/rods are closer to floating/slack) still has me thinking it's one end or another of a connecting rod that's making the noise. Some possible sources of this noise being discussed in this thread would not change when plug wire(s) were pulled or based on rev accel/decel and I think can be ruled out.
All that said, remote / armchair diagnostics are limited in value and someone actually working on the 80 has a lot more information available and MAY make much more accurate assesments as a result.
80 Life
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- #171
I will try to get a video posted tomorrow with the plug wires pulled on Cylinder 1.
I am stuck remote / armchair diagnosing this because 2 mechanics have given up on it already and no one seems willing to tear into the block to do the work probably required. They do everything they can on the top-end and then throw their arms up in the air.
My comment on the value of remote / armchair diagnostics was just an attempt to not sound overconfident or to put my ideas out as facts and was no criticism of your approach. Given the cost of digging into the bottom end I'd also explore all other options, within reason, including posting videos like you are doing. Hopefully the feedback here is useful to you.
Side note, your two videos were some of the first that I've seen on this forum that clearly portray the sound/issue being discussed. I typically don't comment on a posted video because I can't make out what it's supposed to convey. Nice work on those.
I forget where you are in this process and hate to repeat already discounted ideas, etc. but.... have you done much shopping for a used engine and installer? Unless something new comes up here it seems like you are at a fork in the road where one path takes you into a full tear-down and likely rebuild or replacement and the other path takes you to an engine swap for a known good, used 1FZFE. Sure there are other options, but given you haven't really gotten to drive this thing much and the issues you've had with it I think that working to find a low cost, used, decent 1fzfe and getting it into the 80 is the cheapest way to get this thing rolling should no new solution present itself with the current engine. Once it's driveable you can re-evaluate what to do with the 80, consider rebuilding the current engine if you want or sell the 80 and move on, etc.
Searching car-part.com doesn't show any engines close to you but does show at least one with free shipping (red, rolled 80 in Mobile AL), which is a starting point. Mud members may be able to help on this front if you decide to try for a used engine also (and probably already have in this thread I'd guess).
80 Life
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- #173
You're beating a dead horse here. I just went back to messages with a guy who had a 94' motor in excellent condition with a newer head gasket taken out for a V8 swap for $800. I never committed to figuring out the freight shipping of it and it sold in early February. Deals like that on a good 93'/94' 1FZFE in good running condition re hard to come by. I will keep searching
A favorite saying for me and I at least try to avoid doing it myself, with varied results......
Japanese Auto in wheat ridge is a great 80 series resource. I’ll be tinkering tomorrow in my garage in Broomfield if you want to stop by with it we can poke at it. It doesn’t sound like a rod knock on the video, but it’s so hard to tell via video.
Also you might want to cross post on the Rising Sun forum for some local help.
Also you might want to cross post on the Rising Sun forum for some local help.
Pull and replace plug wires one at a time with it idling.
You'll hear an immediate change, or not, in how it idles.
You need to lift the plug lead a good inch or two clear of the plug so the spark doesn't jump the gap to the plug.
Strongly recommend using insulated pliers for this. A stray spark sure can wake you up good!
80 Life
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- #177
I am desperate and took @use2bn83 up on his offer to stop by his place to "poke" at it. I had no idea if he was just gonna listen to it or what.
I got insanely lucky as I pulled up to a place with 3 sweet 80's out front and a T100 in the driveway, and soon learned about his former engineering job with Slee.
This man spent 2+ hours in the cold absolutely cranking on the 80 on a Saturday. On his off day he did more than both mechanics to diagnose the issue, and the best part was I got to learn as he did it all right in-front of me. Nothing was found to be the issue in all the different things tried, but the noise just didn't quite line up with a rod knock as most other people have also agreed. At this point he had cranked on the breaker bar and tried everything he could think of, but due to the fact that pulling plugs for cylinder #1 made the noise significantly quieter it was likely a rod knock.
The last thing he could recommend before rebuild was to run it without the power steering pump when I got home to see if the noise still occurred. Before I could leave he told me he was taking the power steering pump off himself and was fine with making a mess as long as he could get to the bottom of it since the noise being made intrigued him so much. A true Cruiser head and genuine dude. After running it without the power steering pump it still made the noise and we had reached the end of the rabbit hole. It's a rod knock.
Although it sucks to come to terms with needing a rebuild or swap, it great to be done chasing this issue.
I am missing a lot of details but @use2bn83 tried countless things to hopefully find anything wrong but a rod knock, and was unsuccessful.
I am looking to either purchase a rebuilt engine from @Fj80oregon or get my motor rebuilt in Colorado if I can find the right person. I will update you all when she is running smoothly again. Thanks to so many people in helping try to and chase down this issue over many MUD pages and months. I will pay it forward with Cruiser Karma to others down the road as @use2bn83 taught me. I also look forward to getting involved with Rising Sun 4x4. Cheers
What a story for us, and nightmare for you. Thanks for updating this thread. Dead end threads suck. I wish you luck with whatever you decide to do.
Going through what you’ve been going through with your truck has to suck! That said, some of the greatest builds have had similar beginnings.
Ahhhh, sorry to hear dude. Trust me, I feel your pain.
I'm about 10 hours and $2k in to a 16-20 hour repair for me to replace the head gasket on an engine that is "good to swap in and go".
I did my best to check it out before buying, but had no way to do a compression test.
Live and learn! In the future, I think I'd take an air compressor, pull plugs, and pump air into cylinders through the plug hole and see if they held pressure. That and a borescope down the plug hole.
Don't give up on the truck. If you enjoy the truck, get after it. Weigh up your options, and go for it
Getting it back to full strength will be satisfaction in itself after all you've dealt with.
Even with my latest fail, I'm still ahead.
A used engine from a wrecker would cost me $4k+, and probably still need a bunch of the small parts I replaced to make sure it's reliable and will run the best it can.
Used engine, plus head gasket and VRS seal kit, plus a few sensors that were missing, I'm still a couple of grand ahead, and I'll be able to recoup most if not all that I've spent if I sell this engine down the track.
I'm about 10 hours and $2k in to a 16-20 hour repair for me to replace the head gasket on an engine that is "good to swap in and go".
I did my best to check it out before buying, but had no way to do a compression test.
Live and learn! In the future, I think I'd take an air compressor, pull plugs, and pump air into cylinders through the plug hole and see if they held pressure. That and a borescope down the plug hole.
Don't give up on the truck. If you enjoy the truck, get after it. Weigh up your options, and go for it
Getting it back to full strength will be satisfaction in itself after all you've dealt with.
Even with my latest fail, I'm still ahead.
A used engine from a wrecker would cost me $4k+, and probably still need a bunch of the small parts I replaced to make sure it's reliable and will run the best it can.
Used engine, plus head gasket and VRS seal kit, plus a few sensors that were missing, I'm still a couple of grand ahead, and I'll be able to recoup most if not all that I've spent if I sell this engine down the track.
