maybe an easy AC question (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter loquito
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An early up to May of 1993 will work because these, like yours, were R-12 systems. The fittings are different from the R-134 systems. I recently converted my early 93 over to R-134.
LS1FJ40
SILVER Star
If I'm not mistaken, the compressors are exactly the same for 91-93 and 94-97 BUT like @baldilocks says the connections are different because of the r-134 fittings in the 94-97.
If you are changing out the compressor then switch to r-134. Get a new drier and expansion valve. And an o ring kit. It will take you a couple of hours to change everything out. I did it on both my 92 and 93 and both blow ice cold.
If you are changing out the compressor then switch to r-134. Get a new drier and expansion valve. And an o ring kit. It will take you a couple of hours to change everything out. I did it on both my 92 and 93 and both blow ice cold.
LS1FJ40
SILVER Star
Yes the mounting is the same. Forgot to answer that part.
^^^This. I bought an entire AC system from Rockauto. They have Denso parts just like the ones on your 80 plus complete "green" O-ring kits.
The new compressor will come with out the manifold so if you switch over to R134 you will need to swap your manifold to the new compressor and buy the R134 servicing adaptors to replace the ones currently on your manifold.
Most of the oil in the system is contained in the compressor and the receiver/dryer. The r134 requires the PAG46 type oil and the system calls for 180ml- half in the compressor and half in the receiver/dryer. The new compressor will come with oil in it. Dump this out so as not to over service the system.
Toyota put out a service bulletin back when they were retrofitting r12 systems. It's available on the Internet, you just have to find it. It has info on part numbers you will need, oil application and other good to know tips.
The new compressor will come with out the manifold so if you switch over to R134 you will need to swap your manifold to the new compressor and buy the R134 servicing adaptors to replace the ones currently on your manifold.
Most of the oil in the system is contained in the compressor and the receiver/dryer. The r134 requires the PAG46 type oil and the system calls for 180ml- half in the compressor and half in the receiver/dryer. The new compressor will come with oil in it. Dump this out so as not to over service the system.
Toyota put out a service bulletin back when they were retrofitting r12 systems. It's available on the Internet, you just have to find it. It has info on part numbers you will need, oil application and other good to know tips.
- Thread starter
- #8
So I have honestly studied,
I have a dead r12 in the 92.
would you change out the compressor for a new one made to run r135a? Or since my compressor is fine as far as I know, Should I reuse and just upgrade O rings and dryers and such?
- Thread starter
- #9
I have read that and book marked it.
But then most state to remove oil, not just mix it as the bulletin seems to state.
Thus I am confused
- Thread starter
- #10
If a new 94 or newer compressor is desirable, will the rest of the hookups and dryers and such play nice with it? I know I need differant r135a valves. but will a 92 dryer work with a newer compressor?
Im just curious, really hoping to just upgrade Orings and other parts in my own system and then use r135a.
LS1FJ40
SILVER Star
So, I did what they call a "dirty" conversion on my 92. I had a seized compressor as mine had leaked all of the r-12 out. I hadn't had AC for 5-6 years. So I swapped the compressor, drier, and changed the o rings. I used a used compressor from Cruiser Yard aka @arcteryx. I didn't drain the old oil. The argument being that the mineral oil in an r-12 system is heavier than r-134a refrigerant. What this means is that the oil will mostly sit in the compressor. The argument is that this is not a big deal as you want the oil to get to the compressor. I don't know exactly, I just know I didn't want to mess with so I tried it last year and it worked all winter and this year. Blows ice cold. I did add a little PAG oil. About 25% of what they recommend IIRC. The thought is that the PAG oil circulates through the system but the mineral oil sits in the compressor.
There are numerous guys that have done this and are way smarter than me. They explained the reasoning better than I can.
The drier is critical to replace and it's cheap ($25). I ordered mine on Amazon along with the O ring kit. Got it in two days.
There are numerous guys that have done this and are way smarter than me. They explained the reasoning better than I can.
The drier is critical to replace and it's cheap ($25). I ordered mine on Amazon along with the O ring kit. Got it in two days.
All fitting connections for the r12 system are smaller. You can not mix and match the parts from the two different systems. I have no experience with r135a. Replace the dryer and drain the compressor over night. I believe that the service bulletin states that removing absolutely all old oil is not necessary. The old oil will just float around the system as a separate entity because it will not mix with the r134. This, however, will cause your sight glass on top of the dryer to be foggy.
All you really need is a new dryer, new service ports, the Orings that are disturbed and the PAG46 oil and a syringe to measure precise amounts of oil.
If you follow the SB you will be golden. The only reason that I replaced my whole system is because it was void of refrigerant, the condensor looked like hell and I had no idea what was really wrong with it, not to mention the truck is approaching 300k miles.
All you really need is a new dryer, new service ports, the Orings that are disturbed and the PAG46 oil and a syringe to measure precise amounts of oil.
If you follow the SB you will be golden. The only reason that I replaced my whole system is because it was void of refrigerant, the condensor looked like hell and I had no idea what was really wrong with it, not to mention the truck is approaching 300k miles.
LS1FJ40
SILVER Star
LS1FJ40
SILVER Star
Those are the parts I used. $40 plus the r-134a and PAG oil.
- Thread starter
- #15
well amazon would not ship to me but Rock Auto would, so thanks guys,
Ill keep the old compressor and clean, update oring kit , dryer and expansion valve, am I missing anything?
I don't think an TXV is necessary. Is it called out on the service bulletin? Don't forget your new R134 service adapters which screw onto the compressor manifold.
LS1FJ40
SILVER Star
Just make sure you get all of the o rings replaced. They will be pretty brittle but not crunchy. The o ring kit has a ton of extras in it so just double check and follow the lines to make sure you get them all. Just forget the ones on the firewall like I did...
