Man-a-Fre U-joints (1 Viewer)

[concretejungle]

(along with doing lots of suspension geometry reconfigures).

Could you please elaborate a little on this.

Thanks.

 

[Tools R Us]

On a stock truck the drive shafts have very little angle, the u-joints don't have to do much work, small problems with marginal u-joints won't show. When the truck is lifted the same joints that have broken in and run for many miles at say two degrees are forced to run at say six degrees, the bearings in the joints have to turn further and they have more stress on them. What was a small undetectable imperfection in the joint becomes a vibration and the joint needs to be replaced. More angle always equals more wear, the 80 series have long shafts, so it's not as big of a problem as say a 40 with a drive train swap and short shafts, but the joints in a lifted truck always need more maintenance, greasing for long life.

If the joints are good, most of the time it's impossible to tell with the shafts in the truck, take them out and the joints should move smoothly through their travel with no binding or play and there is still a vibration, then it's a geometry problem. The Pirate link explains that very well. On the front of my truck with 5" lift and the castor properly corrected the pinion will point at the transfercase requiring a CV shaft. The rear will need longer lower links and/or shorter uppers to lower the pinion make the stock rear shaft happy.

 

[OGBeno]

On a stock truck the drive shafts have very little angle, the u-joints don't have to do much work, small problems with marginal u-joints won't show. When the truck is lifted the same joints that have broken in and run for many miles at say two degrees are forced to run at say six degrees, the bearings in the joints have to turn further and they have more stress on them. What was a small undetectable imperfection in the joint becomes a vibration and the joint needs to be replaced. More angle always equals more wear, the 80 series have long shafts, so it's not as big of a problem as say a 40 with a drive train swap and short shafts, but the joints in a lifted truck always need more maintenance, greasing for long life.

If the joints are good, most of the time it's impossible to tell with the shafts in the truck, take them out and the joints should move smoothly through their travel with no binding or play and there is still a vibration, then it's a geometry problem. The Pirate link explains that very well. On the front of my truck with 5" lift and the castor properly corrected the pinion will point at the transfercase requiring a CV shaft. The rear will need longer lower links and/or shorter uppers to lower the pinion make the stock rear shaft happy.

Well put Kevin...a bit clearer than some of the stuff in the Pirate link.

So, the moral of the story--the more the lift, the more one need to replace/change to return the rig in to optimum driveline performance.

Thanks very much.
-onur

 

[OGBeno]

Could you please elaborate a little on this.

Thanks.

Hey CJ--this goes with my earlier post awhile back when I was doing my drive shafts and panhards.

I had to change the following after my 3" OME Heavy lift (with a rather unweighed truck):

Adjustable front and rear panhards
Adjustable upper and lower rear control arms
OME Caster Bushings
New Bushings all the way around underneath (OEM)
New OEM U-joints (4)

Thus, the geometry changes.

Kevin's post is really good and as is the Pirate link....

Later man.
-onur

 

[concretejungle]

Gotcha.

I see and understand what Kevin was saying. What threw me off is when he stated the Tcase and front diff should point at each other.....i was thinking that the flanges of both should literally set flat against each other in a theoretical straight line. that was imposible due to the tcase sitting horizontal to the bottom of the truck. But once i clicked on the link i was enlightened.

 

[Tools R Us]

Cruiserhead05, when you get the joints is there a chance of a quickie review with some close up pix? I was very impressed with the quality of the OEM joints, it would be cool to know how these compare.

 

[Cruiserhead05]

Kevin.

They u-joints are supposed to be here friday i think. As soon as i get them and have access to a digital camera i will definately post up some pictures and what not. As far as a review.....i dont know a whole lot about u-joints so there probably isnt much i'll have to say about them. Once i get them installed though i will definately do a short writeup on how they help/effect my ride quality. Considering i have been running 10k miles or so with my lift and my current u-joints are 255k miles old......I am really hoping to feel a nice difference once i ad these.
But in short, yes i will post up a thread with some stuff on the man-a-fre parts

 

[concretejungle]

I also have Manafre ujoints on the way. I'm looking at the FSM about disassembly/assembly, any tips or tricks? I've never replaced ujoints before. In the FSM they are calling for a SST to "press out bearing from the yoke"?

 

[OGBeno]

I also have Manafre ujoints on the way. I'm looking at the FSM about disassembly/assembly, any tips or tricks? I've never replaced ujoints before. In the FSM they are calling for a SST to "press out bearing from the yoke"?

CJ--I had a drive line shop replace mine and balance the driveshaft while they were at it. Cost $50 for each driveshaft. They did a pretty decent job.

But if you are going to do this on yer own, check out this link:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/ujoint_install/

You need a hammer, and a 2x4 and smash away!!

-o-

 

[Cruiserhead05]

I know of a local shop in town that pretty good on prices and has always done pretty good work for me. I talked to them on the phone, they can do both driveshafts in one day, no problem. As much as i do like working on the 80 myself and learning how to do it, this one is kind of a no brainer, its just quicker and easier to have a place do it. i'll have the truck back the next day....

 

[landtank]

get yourself a good 2 arm puller and just push them out, pretty easy really.

 

[concretejungle]

I may go that route, but i like to try and learn how to do things. I'll give it the ol' try first, and then if i don't fix it, i'll take it somewhere.

Beno, thanks a ton for that link. That will help. I'm going for it. I ordered a spare incase i screw one up.

I have a digi, so i'll take some pics.

 

[Tools R Us]

I use a press and a selection of sockets, but a big vise and sockets works well too.

 

[powderpig]

Sorry about the post then not being around. It seems like other jumped in to explain. I really had no issues with drive line until I hit the 4 inch lift an above. If you look at the rear one you have two angles to work with. the rear diff is offset slightly to the passenger side and not really in a straight line(as one would like). The other is the up/down angle. With the steeper up/down angle compounding the side to side angle. The on cv drive shaft i need with the 4 inch was for the front. Once i got one based on toyota u-joints and flanges all has stayed balance well, but the non toyota u-joints have lasted 2 years (the shop says high quality, but not toyota quality). I need to currently send my rear in as I have scratched the tube(some slight vibration now). u-joints in the cv have been holding up, but not the one at the diff end of the shaft. My truck is both daily driver and my wheeling truck. so sees milage. I will be interested to see what milage I get out of the toyota ones.
As for doing a u-joint the first ime by your self, I really reccommend you find some one near you to help you the first time. real easy to screw up the u-joint if you do not know how, the FSM is good, but knowthing like a friend to help. (easy to lose the value u-joint)good luck robbie