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Or use the handle of the floorjack as an extension of the breaker bar…put a floor jack under your breaker bar and put a little bit of upward pressure while you try to loosen the globe.
The hexes have been known to round or snap off the globe. The floor jack trick helps prevent that failure mode… so you are more likely to get away with said breaker bar extensionOr use the handle of the floorjack as an extension of the breaker bar…
'11 LX570 w/ 170K Miles.
I 'attempted' to change the globes today. Did my research and tried to follow the directions but things went south when I could not get ANY of the globes off. I had breaker bar but zero luck. Assuming they have been on there since the beginning of time. Rather than leaving it, I decided to refill it and get it back on the road. Fluid back in, started the bleed process, DF, PF, DR, PR. From What I could tell (note, first time bleeder here), I had fluid coming out on all corners and no air. Cycled through Low, High, Low but my ride height is all over place. As a result, the system is having trouble locking in on L, N, H.
Is this a sign that I need to re-bleed the system or that I may have overfilled or underfilled the reservoir? I say the last part because I can't see the min / max line, even with a flashlight, so I had to eyeball it based on fluid I took out.
Appreciate your assistance on diagnosing this. Thank you.
It is significant, but they last at least 100k miles to spread out the cost, and this isn’t a part that a dozen companies have managed to build for 30 years without issue. You can’t even inspect the important parts for differences in build quality.Has anyone gone with aftermarket globes yet? eBay min pricing is $800 now. Amazon prime $279 for a full set aftermarket….. that’s significant !
Understood. I’ll try to hunt a set for $500.It is significant, but they last at least 100k miles to spread out the cost, and this isn’t a part that a dozen companies have managed to build for 30 years without issue. You can’t even inspect the important parts for differences in build quality.
It’s your money, but I wouldn’t take the risk.
Found a set for 580 shipped with best offer. Seems to be the best out there. $280 more (double) to go OEM is the right choiceIsn't the labor and headache alone of having to possibly re-do it if they don't last worth $500?
Found a set for 580 shipped with best offer. Seems to be the best out there. $280 more (double) to go OEM is the right choice
Luckily I haven’t had to replace anything else substantial yet. Had the truck a little over a year now.OEM is generally ALWAYS the right choice for 200 parts.
Wondering why you top it off first? I’ve got to do a full fluid flush too and planned to drain it all out from the get go.After helping 2 other houstonites with globe swaps, I just completed this on my own rig. While waiting for the parts to arrive, I pulled off my slee protection plates and flushed my fluid. swapping globes took 1hr including normal amount of distractions from kids. For anyone looking at this last page and hoping to avoid scanning the previous 34 pages, here's the rundown:
0) top off AHC fluid
1) attach 1/4" hose to bleed nipple and release all the pressure. rig will drop. leave bleeder open
2) using 13/16" socket and breaker bar, unscrew globe. fluid may still gush and spill when you unscrew.
3) screw in new globe and towque to 111ft/lbs
4) close bleeder screw
5) start rig and let ahc pump level out the rig. leave car on and close all doors
6) crack open bleeder screw (yes, while rig is on) and close after a few seconds. ahc pump will kick in as you're bleeding to replace all the fluid you just drained out. repeat until fluid comes out without air bubbles. only open 1/4 turn and fluid will slowly come out. opening more will let fluid out faster, but you'll see bubles in the hose because air is entering from around the bleeder screw.
7) shut off rig and top off fluid.
8) repeat.
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