LX470 Slee 30mm Coil Spacer Install

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Joined
Dec 25, 2014
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Location
El Dorado Hills, CA
So I thought I'd do a quick write up on this as I didn't see any in my searches. It's a pretty easy operation if you have the right tools and probably takes a couple hours or so. These are the spacers:

http://www.sleeoffroad.com/products/suspension_pieces_spacers.htm

Why would you install these? For me, it was to get my LX470 neutral pressures right, although others could do it for a ~1" lift.

Sorry, I didn't take many pictures, but I think it's straight-forward enough that text should do it.

Tools: Make sure you have 2 large jack stands (I used 6 ton Harbor Freight), a 2+ ton floor jack, and 12, 14, and 17mm wrenches or sockets.

1) Find a level surface with room to jack the car up. Put car in park, AHC HI, with parcking brake on. Chock the front wheels in both directions.
2) Loosen all lug nuts.
3) Jack the rear up on the pumpkin until both rear tires are around 6" off the floor.
4) Put the jack stands under the frame rails just forward of the trailing arms.
5) Lower the car onto the jack stands. Check that they are secure.
6) Remove the wheels.
7) Lower the rear axle until it reaches the end of its travel. Then jack up just enough to support underneath it so that when you do the next steps it doesn't drop down.
8) Remove the 12mm bolts holding the brake line bracket on the axle and the brake line and breather brackets on the rear cross-member. This is so they don't over-extend.
9) Remove the 17mm bolts holding the shocks on.
10) Remove the 14mm bolts holding the sway bar ends to the pieces that extend down from the frame.
11) Pry the sway bar forward out of the way.
12) Pry the shocks off their lower mounts.
13) Support one hub with an extra jack stand or jack.
14) Lower the jack under the axle, causing one side to droop.
15) Remove the spring from the side that is drooping.
16) Put the Slee spacer on above the rubber shim on top of the spring.
17) Slider the whole thing up and get it seated.
18) Jack up the axle again, making sure the spacer seats nicely.
19) Move the jack stand to the other hub, lower the opposite axle side, and repeat the spacer installation.
20) With both spacers in, jack up the axle again.
21) Reattach shocks, sway bar, and brackets, in that order. Sway bar needed some coercion on driver's side for me.
22) Put wheels back on.
23) Remove jack stands and lower the car.
24) Test drive!

Hope someone finds this helpful. At the same time I did this I cranked the torsion bars 3 full turns and dropped my front neutral pressures 1Mpa and rear down 1.2Mpa. Car rides nicer now!

IMG_4393.webp
 
What were your before pressures and what pressures have you achieved now? When I installed 30mm spacers my front pressure dropped from 6.9 to 6.0 which was under damped so I had to actually back off the TBs to get it back up to 6.8. Thanks for the write up, I'm sure others will find it useful.
 
Let's see, before was 8.0 front, 7.0 rear. After spacer install was 7.9/6.8. After cranking the TBs 3 turns, I ended up at 6.9/5.7.

I actually expected the rear numbers to change more drastically after the install but after cranking the TBs they came down quite a bit.

You mention 6.8 for your front, I thought the proper value was 6.9?
 
Yes the specification for front pressure is 6.9MPa, with a tolerance, set with a full tank of fuel at factory height. My preference is to run the rear pressure as low as reasonably possible and the front on the lower side of the spec, basically set it up to come into the sweet spot when loaded up. If you have the time and interest it's worth experimenting with different TB settings for optimization because as the globes gradually loose their charge, environmental temp difference, differences in sprung weight etc all affect the damping response.
 
Yes the specification for front pressure is 6.9MPa, with a tolerance, set with a full tank of fuel at factory height. My preference is to run the rear pressure as low as reasonably possible and the front on the lower side of the spec, basically set it up to come into the sweet spot when loaded up. If you have the time and interest it's worth experimenting with different TB settings for optimization because as the globes gradually loose their charge, environmental temp difference, differences in sprung weight etc all affect the damping response.

How are you guys measuring pressures? I recently installed 15mm spacers from Metaltech, and cranked the Tbars 5 turns. Arbitrary of course. Ride seems better on my 99LX and up/down times are within spec, but I would like to get actual pressures.
Thx.
 
Yup, this is the one I bought: http://www.amazon.com/Newest-V8-00-034-Techstream-Diagnostic-Software/dp/B00C9B32J4/?tag=ihco-20

I ran it using Windows XP SP3 installed on my Mac. Kind of a pain to setup, but worth it if you really want to get your AHC right.


Thanks again, I ordered one on eBay and I happen to have an old laptop with XP, which gives you a hint on my vintage. I have read through some of the threads on techstream here. I am still unclear on a license for the software - go online to get a 2-day access code, or something?
 
North, I had an old XP laptop too that I thought I would use, but it summarily died on me and wouldn't come back to life.

I didn't have to purchase any licenses, so you should be fine w/o.
 
To add another data point. I installed Man-a-fre 30mm spacers. Excellent as I'm now at the upper end of spec.

Before - 7.5 MPa Front / 6.8 MPa Rear
After - 6.7 MPa Front / 6.0 MPa Rear (3 turns front and 30mm trim packers)
Spec - 6.9+/-0.5 MPa Front / 5.6-6.7 MPa Rear
 
i'm showing 6.6 pressure on my fronts and 6.7 on my rear and believe I need to address the rears via a spacer. My question is whether this can wait until spring? My fluid is clean and the system works fine, just wondering how much damage is happening with this rear pressure as it is
 
I have a 2003 LX + AHC that was showing signs of a stiff ride with the rear end easily bottoming out with passengers in the car. I ended up replacing the rear springs + included Slee' s spacers and the ride improvement is noticeable. It even helped the front end from bouncing as heavily on the highway. I have not checked the pressures yet but the BUTT Dyno is glad the work was done.

For those in Austin, Texas I performed the work quickly and safely using a lift in about an hour at : Loyal Austin DIY Shop

Well worth it, I was even offered a spare hand to get the spring dislodged.

Cheers to the OP for the great write up.
 
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Just did this. Only thing I did different is I went at it one side at a time and used spring compressors (cheap ones). Meaning i took one tire off at a time and let the other side droop. First side was over an hour then maybe 30 min for second side.

Odd thing occurred though - The tire pressure light is on and all tires are properly inflated, if not over inflated. I did turn the torsion bars yet but will. I added spacers because of a rear dual swing out. After I added it and have cargo, the rear ahc would occasionally engage to adjust the rear.
 
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well my rear pressure is a bit off at 6.7 and I was on a path to just order the spacers to address this. But I could afford to buy proper replacement OEM springs instead. Is there any ride difference going with the spacers versus new OEM springs? you would think the spacers compress the spring somewhat, leading to a harsher ride. Any opinions on this?
 
Would this install be relevant for a non AHC LC looking for 1" lift?
 
Can't you just use some spring compressors to remove the springs instead of disconnecting all that stuff?
Yes, you can but I would highly advise against it because of how incredibly dangerous spring compressors can be if you don't know what you're doing.
 
Doing this today, thanks for the great write up. Also noticed something, @nutter check your jack stands, they look like they may be the recalled ones!
 
Doing this today, thanks for the great write up. Also noticed something, @nutter check your jack stands, they look like they may be the recalled ones!
@Zer0zg Can you give me some feedback on your install? How is the before and after ride improvement? Thanks in advance.
 
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