LSPV Rust-Destruction

[OGBeno]

So, after changing out my calipers, rotors and pads, I started bleeding everything, and of course, my LSPV is rusted to all hell. I busted the bracket on the diff., and am puzzled as what to do next. I also stripped the hell out of the bleeder on the frame as well. It's not moving anywhere.

At this point, I assume I should pony up and get the whole thing new again?

Is the LSPV really a necessity to the overall functioning of the brake system? I know it is, so this is probably a stupid question...

Thanks.
-onur

 

[aim]

So, after changing out my calipers, rotors and pads, I started bleeding everything, and of course, my LSPV is rusted to all hell. I busted the bracket on the diff., and am puzzled as what to do next. I also stripped the hell out of the bleeder on the frame as well. It's not moving anywhere.

At this point, I assume I should pony up and get the whole thing new again?

Is the LSPV really a necessity to the overall functioning of the brake system? I know it is, so this is probably a stupid question...

Thanks.
-onur

I cannot comment regarding the necessity of the LSPV, but getting mine off was hard. In the end, I had to sawzall it to bits. What leaked out was an incredible rusty mess. I'm sure you are aware of the fact that the LSPV is attached with a special bracket that allows it to slide up and down for adjustment. I would suggest you measure where yours sits prior to hacking it off. Then you can put the new one back in the same place. Oh yeah, you may want to take a really close look at the brake lines. Mine were rusted under the brackets and started leaking.

A

 

[CruisinGA]

IMHO figure out a way to replace it with a standard manually adjustable proportioning valve.

this is my plan once the 40 stops sucking my wallet dry...

 

[Tapage]

IMHO figure out a way to replace it with a standard manually adjustable proportioning valve.

this is my plan once the 40 stops sucking my wallet dry...

an standard wilwood Proportioning valve .. are a good option.. but the " nice " thing with your LSPV is it change the " proportion " with your Cruiser load / lift

This " nice " thing can do with a common proportioning valve.

 

[Land Speeder]

I have a new to me LSPV just waiting to go on my wagon, just haven't gotten around to it..... months later
Seems too hard to change it out with the rod and everything...

 

[IBCRUSN]

I'll ditto CruisenGA. Seeing as I am a northerner like yourself and mine is also corroded I vote for the cheaper replacement. Yes in a strange way I think the LSPV is a good idea however it adds a certain level of additional complication to the brake system. I think running around with a light load just contributes the strange brake wear schedule that Toyota blessed upon us. I have tried to adjust mine for the lift, no good. I ended up making a bracket for the axle mount and making fine adjustments with AN washers (normal & light). It would be much easier to have an adjustable proportioning valve to acconplish the same thing. Just my 2 cents.

 

[OGBeno]

Thanks all for the input.

I went to the local Toy. guys here and talked to one of their techs. about the LSPV.

He hates it and thinks it's a waste of money and engineering time.

He's convinced that many of them don't even work because of corrosion, lifts that negate (or enhance) its influence, etc.

He saw no problem with me hacking it off and running a new brake line to the soft line going to the diff.

So, what if I just hack it off and save myself the $200+ that it is going to cost me to replace the valve, brackets, the stuff on the diff., etc., and just go with a re routed brake solution.

Thanks for the advice gents.
-onur
Akron, OH

 

[Land Speeder]

well let us know how it handles when you do this...

I know my front brakes seem to wear a lot faster now that I have a tall lift and I suspect this is coming from a miss-proportioned LSPV

 

[OGBeno]

well let us know how it handles when you do this...

I know my front brakes seem to wear a lot faster now that I have a tall lift and I suspect this is coming from a miss-proportioned LSPV

For me, it was my rear pads. I went through them in less than 25K miles which does not seem to be jiving with the fact that the front brakes take a much heavier brunt of the braking job. Thus, non-proportioned LSPV...

Yeah, I'm going to chop this off tomorrow. The bolts for the brackets are also stripped and I busted one off earlier today. I'm going to tap those out so that I can re use them if the direct brake line does not work...

Though, I think a direct brake line will work fine...cross my fingers.

-o-

 

[IBCRUSN]

Just running straight from the front to the rears I bet will be off. You'll prolly have to put in some kind of a proportioning valve. Equal psi front and rear isn't a good idea. Give it a shot, but I think you'll find that you'll be searching for a new valve this weekend.

 

[OGBeno]

Just running straight from the front to the rears I bet will be off. You'll prolly have to put in some kind of a proportioning valve. Equal psi front and rear isn't a good idea. Give it a shot, but I think you'll find that you'll be searching for a new valve this weekend.

Just in case, thinking about all of this, I will be ordering everything LSPV related. So by the time it gets here, and things don't work s planned, I'll just reinstall and go back to stock configuration and then adjust for lift as needed.

Thanks for the tip!

 

[CruisinGA]

Why not consider the manual prop valve?

It is very likely that a straight through approach will result in wearing rear brake pads just as badly if not worse than you have already experienced.

Especially for trucks with aftermarket springs that have a higher spring rate than stock (read YOU), a manual valve should be much better than the LSPV.

 

[semlin]

i broke the two nuts off that hold it to the bracket last year. I doused it in penetrating oil for a couple of weeks wacked it ect.. and it didn't move. i would be happy to just replace the bracket studs.

 

[OGBeno]

Why not consider the manual prop valve?

It is very likely that a straight through approach will result in wearing rear brake pads just as badly if not worse than you have already experienced.

Especially for trucks with aftermarket springs that have a higher spring rate than stock (read YOU), a manual valve should be much better than the LSPV.

For example Bailey, are you suggesting something like this:

http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/product.php?productid=72&cat=61&page=1

So it seems with something like the link above, I could still adjust the valve pressure according to lift specs...correct? This would then replace the LSPV--I assume even put it in the same location?

Thanks for the insight.
-onur

 

[OGBeno]

i broke the two nuts off that hold it to the bracket last year. I doused it in penetrating oil for a couple of weeks wacked it ect.. and it didn't move. i would be happy to just replace the bracket studs.

I busted the bracket off of the diff!!!



Held on by some zip ties currently...sawzall and die grinding tomorrow AM...

Can't wait to get rid of that hunk of rusty metal!

 

[Cruiser Jimmy]

Onur,
I'll got a different problem with the damn valve. I can't lock up the front brakes as I should with a non-ABS braking system. I adjusted the LSPV (no rust for me) up as per the FSM and no difference. I'm thinking it's out of there.

 

[OGBeno]

Onur,
I'll got a different problem with the damn valve. I can't lock up the front brakes as I should with a non-ABS braking system. I adjusted the LSPV (no rust for me) up as per the FSM and no difference. I'm thinking it's out of there.

Jimmy....I tore all of it off this morning and just finished the new brake rotors, calipers, and pads and bleeding the system. I basically took the two brake lines and brought them together into one with a quick run over to Summit Racing for some fittings.

Time to go out and warm up the rotors. I'll report back the performance.

FYI: I ordered a new LSPV and all of the accessories from uncle Toy. So if things aren't good, I'm just going to put the old one back up and adjust as needed.

 

[stevek]

Hey Beno! Are you still running without the LSPV? I am going to do rear calipers next week and looking at the amount of rust I have on mine I think I am going to be in the same boat you were. I am trying to decide if I should by the valve now or go without...

 

[OGBeno]

Hey Beno! Are you still running without the LSPV? I am going to do rear calipers next week and looking at the amount of rust I have on mine I think I am going to be in the same boat you were. I am trying to decide if I should by the valve now or go without...

I did not take the LSPV off. I was able to bleed it using a small pipe wrench to move the bleeder. It's pretty beat now (along with still being rusted).

I have a new OEM Aisin unit on the shelf with new bracketry, plunger, etc. ONe of my "to do in winter" projects coming up.


-o-

 

[stevek]

I'll keep soaking it with PB Blaster and hope for the best