Locker question

[-Spike-]

Just finished wiring my lockers. I retrofitted my '94 with factory e-lockers. Added the ECU, switch, harness to rear, indicator bulbs, and while I was there a center diff lock switch and pin 7 mod. Lockers don't work. The indicators flash, indicating that they aren't locked. Neither locker makes any noise. Probably because there's no power on either of the larger wires, at least not to the rear locker. The only power going to the rear harness is for the position sensor (yellow/white wire). I haven't checked the front because I don't know if the front will try to engage if the rear is not engaged.

Couple of questions:
1. What conditions have to be met for the lockers to engage? I.E; does the transfer have to be in low range? Car in gear or in park? E-brake on? Or is it a simple twist of the knob and they lock, regardless?
2. Does the rear locker need to be engaged before the front locker will engage?
3. Is there a relay somewhere that powers the lockers that I might be missing?
4. Is there any way to tell that the center diff lock is engaged? Indicator lamp or something? I push the switch and nothing seems to happen. I put it in low range, and nothing indicates the CDL is engaged.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. If someone could pull the plug on their rear locker and then engage the front locker and tell me if the front locker works independantly, that would be absolutely fantastic. That would help me troubleshoot the problem if I knew that neither locker was working correctly.

FWIW, it's a '94 with a Slee 6" lift on 35" tires. The rear complete axle was taken out of a '94 and the front 3rd member was from a '97 and put into my original housing. The ECU and switch came from the '94 donor.

-Spike

 

[landtank]

the center diff needs to be locked before you can lock the others. With the pin 7 mod that could happen in both low and high range.

 

[-Spike-]

Hmm. Now I need to know if the CDL is engaging. Any way to tell?

-Spike

 

[Beowulf]

1. What conditions have to be met for the lockers to engage? I.E; does the transfer have to be in low range? Car in gear or in park? E-brake on? Or is it a simple twist of the knob and they lock, regardless?

If you have the CDL switch, you can press it to lock the center diff; otherwise the transfer needs to be in low-range which automatically locks the center diff.

2. Does the rear locker need to be engaged before the front locker will engage?

No. The rotary switch takes care of this, but the front can, and ususally will, lock before the rear will lock.

3. Is there a relay somewhere that powers the lockers that I might be missing?

Dunno. You'll have to figure this out yourself.

4. Is there any way to tell that the center diff lock is engaged? Indicator lamp or something? I push the switch and nothing seems to happen. I put it in low range, and nothing indicates the CDL is engaged.

There is a dash indicator light that should illuminate steady. If it blinks, the center diff is not locked. Since there are electric motors on all 3 diffs, you should be able to hear each independently. First, put it in Low or press the CDL and you should be able to hear the center diff motor. Then test the rear, then test the front. Many times you will be able to hear the rear "clunk" as the dog clutch engages. Sometimes I can hear the center and the front when they engage/disengage.

-B-

 

[LandyLover]

Also, when you hit the CDL swicth (or put into low) be sure the ignition is on and the motor off. This makes it possible to hear the motors engage...

Later

 

[ginericLC]

Also, when you hit the CDL swicth (or put into low) be sure the ignition is on and the motor off. This makes it possible to hear the motors engage...

Later

That would help to see if his wiring was right but the motors engaging doesn't necessarily mean the lockers are working.


How many hours did it take? I'm considering doing the same!