Leakage from oil cap? Plus more?

[batmanlotr]

Wondering if anyone had the same issue before

It seems like oil is leaking from my oil cap
But don’t know how it’s all way in the back and it seems like it’s leaking around the whole cover seams

Could this be from a bad oil change??

Had three shops in DFW take stuff from my 80 series. Three different small claims court but nonetheless has anyone dealt with this?

 

[george_tlc]

Use some aluminium friendly grease/oil cleaner and give the whole area a good clean. Then you can observe where the leaks are originating.

Also:

Oil cap has a gasket. It gets old. You can replace with new.

The valve cover has a gasket, it gets old. You can replace that with new.

Use Toyota parts!

Given I'm guessing you don't do this kind of work on your vehicle, I'd suggest waiting for someone to chime in with a reputable shop for you to use.

BTW, your throttle cable is looking 'old'...

cheers,
george.

 

[Kernal]

^^^This^^^


If it's been ~15+/- years since the valve cover gasket has been replaced (or never) it's time to replace it along with the spark plug tube seals and the PCV grommet.

And while the valve cover is off (which requires the Throttle Body to come off) that's a good time to not only clean the inside of the valve cover and the oil baffle box area, but also completely clean every orifice/opening/port of the Throttle Body including the IAC valve port (you'll need a new O-ring for that and a new Throttle Body gasket when it's reinstalled)

And as mentioned above, that also is a good time to replace your Accelerator cable OR, if your's is working fine (smooth, not sticking) you can use 2 foot long sections (cut to fit) of 3M adhesive lined heat shrink tubing (3:1 shrink ratio) to replace the outer rubber cover that's come off.

And before the valve cover is reinstalled is a good time to inspect the engine harness bundle near the EGR pipe, ensure the harness is not drooping down and touching that pipe, then wrap that harness section over/near the hot EGR pipe with a heat protective/reflective sleeve (split/velcro type).

If you don't do your own work mention all those other "while you're in there" repairs to your mechanic, more important if they aren't familiar with
this model. Helps to find someone (like George above) that works on 80's regularly to work on your 80.

FWIW

 

[MissahPapaJ]

Man your engine is worm drive hose clamp city, that would concern me a bit who ever did that was surely abused as a child. I’d remove the oil cap when cold if the gasket is hard ( give it a poke with a ball point pen and if it’s real hard I’d replace the seal ( cheap and easy ) then I’d run the engine until hot and grab a couple cans of brake clean and blast off the oil residue ( in a very well ventilated outdoor location till clean ) and Monitor the affected areas in the future.
Some oil change jabrone could’ve spilled oil and did a piss poor job to clean it up possibly but if that gasket is nearly rock hard I’d suspect that.

 

[batmanlotr]

Use some aluminium friendly grease/oil cleaner and give the whole area a good clean. Then you can observe where the leaks are originating.

Also:

Oil cap has a gasket. It gets old. You can replace with new.

The valve cover has a gasket, it gets old. You can replace that with new.

Use Toyota parts!

Given I'm guessing you don't do this kind of work on your vehicle, I'd suggest waiting for someone to chime in with a reputable shop for you to use.

BTW, your throttle cable is looking 'old'...

cheers,
george.

Hopefully it's just the oil cap. Just ordered the Gasket 90430-37140. The gasket did look extremely crushed.
Surprised to see so much around the valve cover.

I try to do most work on the car for fun but had someone I know take it in for an oil change while I was away and found this mess.
The cap was definitely not fully closed and there was a lot of residue on it.

Cleaned it up waiting to see where it leaks

 

[batmanlotr]

Man your engine is worm drive hose clamp city, that would concern me a bit who ever did that was surely abused as a child. I’d remove the oil cap when cold if the gasket is hard ( give it a poke with a ball point pen and if it’s real hard I’d replace the seal ( cheap and easy ) then I’d run the engine until hot and grab a couple cans of brake clean and blast off the oil residue ( in a very well ventilated outdoor location till clean ) and Monitor the affected areas in the future.
Some oil change jabrone could’ve spilled oil and did a piss poor job to clean it up possibly but if that gasket is nearly rock hard I’d suspect that.

Yeah all the clamps were put on when they rebuilt the engine should I replace them with these

90467-14001 // 90467-20002 ??

Wondering if its worth replacing them or just leave them as is

So far no leaks though

 

[Kernal]

"----when they rebuilt the engine"

How long ago was that? If they messed up the installation of the valve cover gasket that might explain the oil stains near the rear of the valve cover (or it was never cleaned before reinstalling the valve cover after the engine rebuild)??


"Had three shops in DFW take stuff from my 80 series."

What did they take, parts off the vehicle or tools/parts left in the vehicle or??

 

[mudgudgeon]

Yeah all the clamps were put on when they rebuilt the engine should I replace them with these

90467-14001 // 90467-20002 ??

Wondering if its worth replacing them or just leave them as is

So far no leaks though

Catch 22.

To change clamps, you have to open up the coolant system.
Worm clamps can pinch the hose and cause damage to the hose, which can be the cause of leaks the tighter you do this clamps the more damage they do.

The part numbers you have are for clamps used on vacuum lines only. No good for coolant hoses.

This style of oem clamp is what is best for most situations. They squeeze the hose evenly around the full perimeter.

Go to partsouq.com, enter your VIN then search for the correct part number in the "radiator and water outlet" section of the parts diagrams

 

[MissahPapaJ]

Yeah all the clamps were put on when they rebuilt the engine should I replace them with these

90467-14001 // 90467-20002 ??

Wondering if its worth replacing them or just leave them as is

So far no leaks though

In my experience you can’t put the toothpaste back in the tube, I’d leave em once the memory is in the hoses whether you use worms or spring clamps. You only want to switch with a new hose they’ll work in a pinch but it’ll never be right or trust worthy. If those aren’t OE hoses it’s a safe bet the spring clamps won’t work cause aftermarket hoses have a different thickness to OE hoses. I just did a rear heater hose delete and now I have sooooo much room for activity’s in the bay. Did the LandTank rear heater delete and now replacing the PHH is actually possible easily track side if need be. All other hoses are OE with new or good used constant tension clamps and a LandTank modded blue hub fan clutch and dropped 10-15 degrees in my average coolant temp, money and time well spent.

 

[Brindleboxer]

I would also check the PCV, it is simple to remove and costs nothing to check. If it needs replacing it is also cheap (just ensure you also get the grommet).