Getting ready to tackle servicing my steering knuckles this weekend, I stopped by NAPA on the way home from work yesterday to get a seal puller, grease, etc. High temp in St. Louis was 102F yesterday! I get back in my truck, turn the key, and nothing but a single click.
I was contemplating getting out my lug nut wrench and giving the starter a whack when I decided to try again. Click, pause, and then the starter whirred to life and she fired up.
I had to drive 15 miles to pick my oldest daughter up from volleyball practice, then another 20 miles to meet my wife and the other kids at a scout event. So I ditched the Cruiser at home and took our third car--2007 Camry with a non-functioning A/C--to meet the family.
Fast forward to about 9:30 PM. We are home, kids are in bed, and I am not looking forward to having to drive the Camry tomorrow since it will be even hotter. In a bin of spare parts from my donor engine is another starter. Does it work?
Well, it is crusty and disgusting, but it is an original Toyota starter from 1996 from the donor engine that had about 170K on when it was pulled. I did the FSM electrical tests on it, and passed! I also replaced my fusible link and junction block, which has been on my list, but the starter was clearly failing. It would click, pause about 1 second, and then start spinning. So, how hard is this thing gonna be to replace?
Remember, I've got a rebuilt engine that was installed only about 5 months ago, so nothing should be seized. But, holy s***, there is NO room to work under there! Also, the starter bolts were torqued to WAY more that the FSM-specified 29 lb-ft. I was happy that I have about 12 different 17mm sockets of different depths and a variety of extensions to make different combinations of lengths. The upper bolt was particularly difficult; there was one combination of a socket and extension that was the perfect length to allow my ratchet handle to stick out between the shock tower and the wheel well sheet metal. I had about 5 degrees of movement. Slipping a jack handle over the ratchet handle gave me the leverage I needed to break the bolt loose. Of course, it doesn't help that everything on the driver's underside of the truck is currently coated with birfield grease and gear oil from my leaking axle seal!
Once I got those bolts loose, the replacement was easy. The new (old, crusty) started works great, and starts a lot stonger than the failing one ever did. The failing one that I removed is a Denso-tagged reman. It came off of the blown engine that was orginally in the truck. I'm not sure if it was installed because the original starter failed, or as preventative maintenance, or what. But it looks pretty new. I guess there's truth that the remans aren't as good as the Toyota originals.
I finally wrapped up about midnight, once I got my greasy tools cleaned and put away. I'm thankful that I was able to do it in my garage and not is some parking lot!
I suppose I'll tear it down and replace the solenoid contacts (and maybe brushes) and have a spare, assuming the bearings and commutator look good.
I was contemplating getting out my lug nut wrench and giving the starter a whack when I decided to try again. Click, pause, and then the starter whirred to life and she fired up.
I had to drive 15 miles to pick my oldest daughter up from volleyball practice, then another 20 miles to meet my wife and the other kids at a scout event. So I ditched the Cruiser at home and took our third car--2007 Camry with a non-functioning A/C--to meet the family.
Fast forward to about 9:30 PM. We are home, kids are in bed, and I am not looking forward to having to drive the Camry tomorrow since it will be even hotter. In a bin of spare parts from my donor engine is another starter. Does it work?
Well, it is crusty and disgusting, but it is an original Toyota starter from 1996 from the donor engine that had about 170K on when it was pulled. I did the FSM electrical tests on it, and passed! I also replaced my fusible link and junction block, which has been on my list, but the starter was clearly failing. It would click, pause about 1 second, and then start spinning. So, how hard is this thing gonna be to replace?
Remember, I've got a rebuilt engine that was installed only about 5 months ago, so nothing should be seized. But, holy s***, there is NO room to work under there! Also, the starter bolts were torqued to WAY more that the FSM-specified 29 lb-ft. I was happy that I have about 12 different 17mm sockets of different depths and a variety of extensions to make different combinations of lengths. The upper bolt was particularly difficult; there was one combination of a socket and extension that was the perfect length to allow my ratchet handle to stick out between the shock tower and the wheel well sheet metal. I had about 5 degrees of movement. Slipping a jack handle over the ratchet handle gave me the leverage I needed to break the bolt loose. Of course, it doesn't help that everything on the driver's underside of the truck is currently coated with birfield grease and gear oil from my leaking axle seal!
Once I got those bolts loose, the replacement was easy. The new (old, crusty) started works great, and starts a lot stonger than the failing one ever did. The failing one that I removed is a Denso-tagged reman. It came off of the blown engine that was orginally in the truck. I'm not sure if it was installed because the original starter failed, or as preventative maintenance, or what. But it looks pretty new. I guess there's truth that the remans aren't as good as the Toyota originals.
I finally wrapped up about midnight, once I got my greasy tools cleaned and put away. I'm thankful that I was able to do it in my garage and not is some parking lot!
I suppose I'll tear it down and replace the solenoid contacts (and maybe brushes) and have a spare, assuming the bearings and commutator look good.
it's a pretty easy job (usually). Glad you're back up and running and with A/C. CA bay area weather doesn't often need A/C, though we have other issues being in CA 
