Knuckel Arm Bearings Removal without SST (1 Viewer)

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MH_Stevens said:
my question revolved around the fact that the bearings in there now are KOYO Hi-Caps and I thought I could remeber Dan saying that these were different/better? thank the factory original.


I do not recall ever stating that.
 
I used a 6" long 3/8" extention as a beating tool to get the races out, you need one with a slight dimple in the end so it'll hook onto it, but worked very quickly to pop them out...then when putting in the new ones I just went around and tapped it with a hammer until it was getting in there a bit then went around hitting it a bit harder...as previously mentioned those races are HARD...

Here's is what I did:
http://www.colorado4x4.net/tech/knuckle_rebuild/k_29.jpg
 
OK so if Dan confirmas these Koyos were in the original then maybe only the wheel bearing was changed. If that is so then these bearings are in amazing condition 'cos when cleaaned their color, scratches and play are identical to the new ones from dan. Anyway they are in the trash all is fully dismantled now and the rebuild started. Knuckel is back on with 10lb preload. I do still have a problem - I can't get the balls back in the birf!!!! I'm a bit tired now and will give it a shot in the morning when it may go OK. For interest, my birf cage does not have one opening larger than the others as shown in FSM drawing FA0104. Doesn't seem to matter as cage and race are in but when I get two balls in it jams up - maybe I've got the cage or the race back to front. I'll try again tommorow. Side two wil be a breeze.
 
Ignor last post thank you. Up fresh this morning and the birf went straight back together. Should be plain sailing now. Thank you all so very much for the encouragement and help with this front axel service.
 

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