Kickdown cable seems to be going slack causing a 3k rpm shift point for 2nd gear (1 Viewer)

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Feb 16, 2019
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Raleigh, NC
I just replaced and adjusted the TPS on my 3FE and the kickdown behavior seems to have gotten worse after I put everything back together. 2nd gear is now shifting at 2500-3000rpm. I've tried taking some slack out of the cable with the nut adjustment, but I'm wondering if I pulled the cable in an odd way causing some out of spec slack in the cable. I can push the cable back in it's housing, it walks out with one throttle depress.

The thing that has me worried is it's walking out what seems past the 1.5mm maximum tolerance from the FSM and the findings in this thread: 91 3FE Kick Down Cable? - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/91-3fe-kick-down-cable.748668/

The cable is far enough out of the housing to push a bend in the cable itself.

IMG_7300.JPG

Does this mean the entire kickdown cable needs replacing or have I set the adjustment in the wrong way by seating the cable end first and then tightening it? You can see by the clean threads above the nut, I've taken about about 4-5 threads so far.
 
anychance the wire is broken?
did you try pulling the wire out from the sheath?
if the wire is broken, yes it would need replacing. dropping the pan
many, many years ago, IIRCC someones bracket/lever in the trans broke
 
anychance the wire is broken?
did you try pulling the wire out from the sheath?
if the wire is broken, yes it would need replacing. dropping the pan
many, many years ago, IIRCC someones bracket/lever in the trans broke
Hmm, maybe? I know the cable seems to come out from the sheath more than I'd expect, but it also seems to not pull out further than what's in the picture. What would control the kickdown in the event that the wire is broken? Just the throttle cable closing the throttle body?
 
maybe @RockDoc can shed some light on this
 
it looks like you may be draining and dropping the trans pan

not much other help
 
Just tried lubricating the cable with ATF and it seems to have relaxed into the housing now, going to test drive and see.

48E498A6-BE4C-4EF9-8F7D-822B3F0AC9EA.jpeg
 
Yep, we are fixed now. I can attribute this behavior to a sticking cable that was resolved by lubricating the cable with ATF.

Transmission is so much happier now with nearly imperceptible shift points and a better feeling throttle response. Stays in the power band much better now too.

I did tear the cable nipple a bit trying to get it back on, I took it off to try to lubricate the cable easier, but that was unnecessary. I may see if I can source an orange cable nipple somewhere.

AA4677A3-4C35-4AB1-AF80-42C2326D5181.jpeg
 
After driving around some more, it seems like the initial throttle pressure needed to get moving is slightly higher than before, may need to readjust the the throttle slack to allow slightly more give in the initial throttle bite.
 
Glad you got it freed up without having to dig deeper. I haven't had cable issues myself, but I believe others have had the cable fray and become sticky / seized in the sheath.

I adjust the throttle cable so it is just slightly slack with the throttle closed. Probably worth a quick check to see that the throttle plate opens fully with the pedal to the floor. I start a touch slack with the transmission cable, then adjust based on the shifting behavior.
 
nice, you were able to get it freed up
 
CF62EBAE-1551-4293-8AC7-623CBA27F6B9.jpeg
Added a few more threads of slack out adjustment to the throttle cable per RockDoc’s recommendation and that seems to have solved the firmer pedal engagement post-fixing of the kickdown cable. Thanks for the recommendation.
 

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