Is there a writeup on how to do this on a 3FE?
Kick Down Cable Awareness
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As stated previously, the link in the original post has all the info you need to complete this.
Been trying to figure this one out. When my rig, '95, is loaded climbing a hill I need to smash on the gas pedal to get it to downshift. Oftentimes, it only downshifts for 1-4 seconds.
What cable do I need to adjust?
The procedure for adjusting your throttle cable (kick-down cable) can be found in your FSM, just follow said procedure and you'll be all set.
PS: To tight = hard shifts, to loose= floating shifts, just right= perfect shifts
Using above as a rule, I tightened the cable a little and it shifts great! It did literally take a couple minutes. Most of that time was climbing up and getting my foot in on the frame rail so I can get a wrench in there.
I didn't measure the gap, do to the old cable and possible stretching some people were talking about. All mine took was a half turn.
Formulaonehd
NWZ - The storm is here
Good handy thread this one. I'm going to adjust mine this weekend as I think I have an inch of slack in the transmission cable!!
I have a 93 fze and I don't have that read stopper like you , what I did notice is the little metal node (stopper) is inside the little rubber boot when the gas pedal is not depressed , when depressed full the stopper comes out of the rubber boot and is like two inches away from anything , not sure if that's normal!?
I have a 93 fze and I don't have that read stopper like you , what I did notice is the little metal node (stopper) is inside the little rubber boot when the gas pedal is not depressed , when depressed full the stopper comes out of the rubber boot and is like two inches away from anything , not sure if that's normal!?
just went and had a go at this. For anyone in doubt about theirs, mine needed WAY more than one millimetre gap (refer to pic of adjusted cable below). it must be just that it's 20 years old and stretched a bit. I followed the instructions from the first post, back off nut B and then adjust nut G by hand, I wound nut G down towards the end of the cable until the slack was taken out and then just a tiny bit further then tightened up nut B by hand then with a 14mm spanner.
You can see the red rubber cover is slid across to the right. and according to the instructions in the first post, that little cylindrical stopper on the cable is meant to be all but 1mm inside the end of the cable. mine was just way too slack for that. also, sorry about the massive size of that picture.
what a difference. every day I drive up a long hill which gradually gets steeper and at about half way I always need to floor it to get the gearbox to drop down to 2nd. I used the same hill as a test and it's perfect. I got lucky and adjusted it correctly on the first go.
You can see the red rubber cover is slid across to the right. and according to the instructions in the first post, that little cylindrical stopper on the cable is meant to be all but 1mm inside the end of the cable. mine was just way too slack for that. also, sorry about the massive size of that picture.
what a difference. every day I drive up a long hill which gradually gets steeper and at about half way I always need to floor it to get the gearbox to drop down to 2nd. I used the same hill as a test and it's perfect. I got lucky and adjusted it correctly on the first go.
this is probably the one thing that you can do on the truck that takes literally 5 minutes and will give you back some power. It was immediately noticeable after I adjusted mine correctly. The FSM outlines the procedure step by step.
Formulaonehd
NWZ - The storm is here
Thanks for the good advice
Did you have to adjust the cable in the engine bay as well? I'm trying to gauge how much slack is too much as in the engine bay on mine it feels,like a couple of inches of slackness , my gears never change down under heavy gas And always skips 2nd &,3rd gears
="junior80, post: 10600013, member: 19913"]just went and had a go at this. For anyone in doubt about theirs, mine needed WAY more than one millimetre gap (refer to pic of adjusted cable below). it must be just that it's 20 years old and stretched a bit. I followed the instructions from the first post, back off nut B and then adjust nut G by hand, I wound nut G down towards the end of the cable until the slack was taken out and then just a tiny bit further then tightened up nut B by hand then with a 14mm spanner.
You can see the red rubber cover is slid across to the right. and according to the instructions in the first post, that little cylindrical stopper on the cable is meant to be all but 1mm inside the end of the cable. mine was just way too slack for that. also, sorry about the massive size of that picture.
what a difference. every day I drive up a long hill which gradually gets steeper and at about half way I always need to floor it to get the gearbox to drop down to 2nd. I used the same hill as a test and it's perfect. I got lucky and adjusted it correctly on the first go.[/QUOTE]
Thabjs
Did you have to adjust the cable in the engine bay as well? I'm trying to gauge how much slack is too much as in the engine bay on mine it feels,like a couple of inches of slackness , my gears never change down under heavy gas And always skips 2nd &,3rd gears
="junior80, post: 10600013, member: 19913"]just went and had a go at this. For anyone in doubt about theirs, mine needed WAY more than one millimetre gap (refer to pic of adjusted cable below). it must be just that it's 20 years old and stretched a bit. I followed the instructions from the first post, back off nut B and then adjust nut G by hand, I wound nut G down towards the end of the cable until the slack was taken out and then just a tiny bit further then tightened up nut B by hand then with a 14mm spanner.
You can see the red rubber cover is slid across to the right. and according to the instructions in the first post, that little cylindrical stopper on the cable is meant to be all but 1mm inside the end of the cable. mine was just way too slack for that. also, sorry about the massive size of that picture.
what a difference. every day I drive up a long hill which gradually gets steeper and at about half way I always need to floor it to get the gearbox to drop down to 2nd. I used the same hill as a test and it's perfect. I got lucky and adjusted it correctly on the first go.[/QUOTE]
Thabjs
Yeh this is in the engine bay, this picture is looking down on the top of the engine. follow the accelerator cable to the top of the throttle body and you will find the top of the kick down cable.
Thats the accelerator cable and the kick down cable beneath it, black pipe in the bottom of the pic is the air intake tube.
Thats the accelerator cable and the kick down cable beneath it, black pipe in the bottom of the pic is the air intake tube.
Formulaonehd
NWZ - The storm is here
is that with the gas pedal depressed? adjusted mine today, no change. Though i still have slack cables still
