Kayaks on rack (1 Viewer)

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To open the rear hatch with long boats on the roof, i just loosen the rear straps on the rack and open the hatch. No issues as the struts on the hatch easily hold the weight of the boats. In this case I typically out a Thule Landing Pad or a life jacket between the boats and the spoiler to prevent scratches.

Land Cruisers are really made for this.

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Anyone know a j-rack that will work with fishing kayaks? They are pretty big kayaks!
 
Before I got to the solution shown I had purchased the Rhino T-loader however the Tandem Island is too heavy. Took 5 guys at the shop in Corpus to get it on the roof so I went to plan B after looking at some other solutions on the internet.

I have that T-bar laying around together with some additional clips and straps and cross bars. Maybe I can sell this next best solution to you for a reasonable price.

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Awesome set up there, wish i would have thought of doing something like that! I love the Hobie boats but they are HEAVY, I had a PA12 for a couple years and ended up parting with it because it it was too much trouble trying to rooftop by myself, I fish a perception pescador pilot 12 now and its definitely more manageable.
 
Anyone know a j-rack that will work with fishing kayaks? They are pretty big kayaks!
I would definitely go with kayak saddles rather than J-Racks. Those things are pain to use, designed to fail, and make your kayak a big sail which is always fun in a cross wind. They are also very difficult to load with a heavy kayak. With the saddles, I can easily throw a life jacket on the spoiler and slide a heavy tandem kayak up onto the kayak saddles without a problem. Yakima and Thule also make a device that allows you to side load a kayak, then use simple hydraulics to lift and lock in place. You can see the Thule example in the pictures I posted above. I tried it for a few years then went back to simple saddles as I found sliding over the back was easier for me. Something to consider.
 
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I agree with stonepa, the saddles are the lowest profile way to carry your kayak outside of flipping it over. This is my taco with Yakima saddle, will be moving these over to the 200 this spring.
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I would need saddles that would connect with crossbars
 
Just picked up the Rhino T-Bar and supports from @2021 LC200 for a great deal, much appreciated. It’s nice to meet a fellow Cruiser owner and engineer in the area. I look forward to using this setup for when I don’t need or want to bother with my trailer.
 
Just picked up the Rhino T-Bar and supports from @2021 LC200 for a great deal, much appreciated. It’s nice to meet a fellow Cruiser owner and engineer in the area. I look forward to using this setup for when I don’t need or want to bother with my trailer.
Thanks Tex68w. Good to meet you as well, hope the Rhino T-bar and items work out (perhaps post a pic once loaded out with your kayaks) and great lift and wheels you have on yours! At some point I need to do the same and get ready for some more serious trails.
 
The rear hatch raises to a point higher than when closed and the spoiler angles up as well so I have my doubts that you'll be able to fully open the rear lift gate with the boat on the roof. That said, your LFD crossbars sit up higher than the factory crossbars, I believe, so that might work. There will be more clearance if you strap the boat down right side up, but I prefer run them upside down if I can.
Mine fit with the tailgate open but I have kayak J mounts do the kayaks sit on the side. Mine is not in the factory rack but if your crossbars are far enough forward to center the kayak I would think the fitment would be the same.
 
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Wide Yakima bars are my go to, sometimes with kayak stackers to load them on their sides, sometimes loaded flat. On their side they clear the hatch much better. I have seen kayak stackers made by Malone (and others I’m sure) that would fit the factory bars, and I am sure they’d work fine but I like the additional bar width and stability of the aftermarket bars. You likely won’t have room for two boats flat side by side on the factory racks. Also, if your boats have much rocker or if you want to load them on their sides, two distinct bars will allow the boat to sit more naturally than a full platform rack.
 
I use amazon aluminum collapsible J-Hooks on factory LC roof rack. I side mount 2 sit-in 12' Kayaks and can get my hatch open without issue. (Looks just like the picture above)
 
I agree that side mounting in stack mounts or J-hooks is the best way to clear the hatch and allow for two boats, I ran a similar setup to @TimCFJ40 on my Grand Cherokee with the wider Yakima bars and it worked well for running two boats on the roof.

For my needs I am only attempting to run one boat on the roof for times when I am solo or meeting up with others but don’t have anyone riding with me that also has a boat. I have a trailer for when I need to haul multiple boats and the factory bars with pads combined with the Rhino T-Bar I just picked up will allow for me to carry any of my boats both upside down and right side up with ease.

I am not too concerned about rear access with the boat on the roof and should I absolutely need to access the rear hatch from the outside I can always unstrap the boat from the T-Bar, pivot it back and gain access. Most of the time I load up, head directly to the put in and unload upon arriving making the need to gain access along the way not necessary. At the end of the day I am happy to have this new solution and look forward to putting it to use soon.

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Does the spoiler have a purpose. The dusty dessert 200s only have a tiny spoiler.

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I spent couple dozen trips with J racks and I wont use them again. They really increase the level of effort to load and tie on boats.
 
For quick reference how the Rhino T-rack loader works




And what inspired my self build side loading system for the big and relative heavy Tandem Island. The first one a good idea yet a bit to basic for my taste (including unknown strength of the PVC tubes) and the second one a bit expensive and "to custom" to only loading a boat or kayak. So I went with the Rhino Rack, which is useful for many cargos uncluding runs to Home Depot/Lowes et al, and the aluminum ramps (which i checked for max flex when putting the 145lbs Kayak on it) and a small 12v ATV winch.



Rhino-Rack | Side Boat Loader - How It Works - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nlPyVSIsgAc
 
For quick reference how the Rhino T-rack loader works




And what inspired my self build side loading system for the big and relative heavy Tandem Island. The first one a good idea yet a bit to basic for my taste (including unknown strength of the PVC tubes) and the second one a bit expensive and "to custom" to only loading a boat or kayak. So I went with the Rhino Rack, which is useful for many cargos uncluding runs to Home Depot/Lowes et al, and the aluminum ramps (which i checked for max flex when putting the 145lbs Kayak on it) and a small 12v ATV winch.



Rhino-Rack | Side Boat Loader - How It Works - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nlPyVSIsgAc

That Rhino side rack looks great, but I’m assuming that gets spendy.
 
That Rhino side rack looks great, but I’m assuming that gets spendy.
You mean buying the Rhino one as shown in the Aussie vidoe or my self build Rhino Pioneer with side loading? Both not cheap.

My Build
Approximate/from memory around $2200 total, so not cheap at all. Then again I had to figure a way without having to break my back or damage the car every time I want to go sailing and possible go alone. Also needed a solution allowing us to tow our travel trailer, so trailer not an option.

The biggest portion is the Rhino Rioneer Rack, useful for other cargo and possible overlanding in the future. Ended up making the Cruiser look even better as well...

- Rhino Pioneer $1450
- Self made fairing, since the Rhino version had poor reviews and would sit on the sunroof glass, so not proper for the LC200 - ABS plate, rubber edge and aluminum strips and stainless bolts around $150 total
- 4ea 6ft Aluminum tubes 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" 1/8" wall and one 6ft of 1-1/4"" x 1-1/4" to connect into 2ea 12ft'ers around $180

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- Rhino ladder fittings for load bars and Rhino awning fittings $150
- 12v ATV winch $110
- Starter cable and Anderson plugs to hook up the same $80
- Added E-tracks to facilitate sideway sliding on Rhino Rack around $50


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I think I might use this method and the Yakima BigCatch saddles or something similar.



YAKIMA, BigCatch Kayak Fishing Boat Saddles for Roof Racks and Trailers https://a.co/d/8r2t0f0
 
I think I might use this method and the Yakima BigCatch saddles or something similar.



YAKIMA, BigCatch Kayak Fishing Boat Saddles for Roof Racks and Trailers https://a.co/d/8r2t0f0

Sure, why not. May want to consider risk of damage to your antenna and/or your rear windshield.

For reference - The Rhino T-bar loader I sold to Tex68w for half price is about $280 to $300 new. In his case I sold him also 2ea additional x-bars which fits the OEM rack and some more Rhino supports to facilitate easy sliding and fastening onto the OEM cross bars. Good setup allowing for easy and good securing of his kayak(s).

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Sure, why not. Think of your antenna and maybe damage to your rear windshield. The Rhino T-bar loader I sold to Tex68w is about $280 to $300 new. In his case I sold him 2ea additional x-bars which fits the OEM rack and some more Rhino supports
Good points. The t-loader likely won’t work for me as we pull a camper when we take out our kayak.
 

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